Wildcardracing

Must need this gone bad!! I can vouch for the quality of this arm, I deal with Lance (quadcustoms) on a regular basis and these are top notch. Good Luck with the sale.

Not entirely true, WSM makes them for TDR. But, checked today and they're also only available in .020" increments. Sorry bud. Oh and as a side not I agree, those exhaust ports look pretty rough for my liking.

Did you braze the original flanges back on them??? Find a machine shop to cut some for you, give them the measurements and they should be able to turn some out on a lathe pretty easy. Not necisarilly what I'd have done, but about the only way I can see accomplishing what you're trying to do. Not sure if that braze will hold up to the heat though, are you running methanol or gas??? Might be able to get away with it on meth. Hope that helps. -slo

Glad to hear it solved your problems, wasn't much doubt though. :thumbsup:

Matt, I'm glad that you're happy with the way it all turned out, let me know when you're ready to step up to more power and an extended swinger. Face, hope to see your shee in my shop soon. Thanks both of you, for the compliments on the work! -Brandon

Power adders, ie: nitrous. The only reason I could think of running retarded timing. More than likely the previous owner didn't know what the - and + meant...lol As for the problems with the pull in the higher gears, yes it could easily have been the cause. Would have killed what little low end your shee might have had.

LOL, those would look real nice on the mantle above my fireplace. Someday I'd like to build a setup like that, but does seem a little pricey to me too.

Somebody's got to have one they want to sell.

Post up some pics of the seat covers, I might be interested in one. Thanks -Slo

Sorry bud, the 795's are available in .020" increments only, whereas the standard 513's are available in .010" increments. You are currently at a .030" overbore and would need to go to a .040" over which is a 65mm bore. I believe wiseco's part # that you will need is 795MO6500. Hope all that helps. You might try searching Vito's and TDR to see if they offer long rod type pistons in .010" steps, I'm not sure. -Slo

Port matching the transfer area on the upper case to the lower transfers on the cylinders and cutting the base gaskets to match, its only worth a few ponies...but, all the way throught the power band. Bigred was talking about cuting every other sprag out of the transmission gears so the gear dogs can engage easier. Makes shifting faster and easier.

I have an 03' with 06' yellow SE plastics and have an 06' was the black/purple flames before a wreck took my stock plastics. But , I'd have to say my all time favorite is the 03 yellow/black with flames. I'm gonna find one in good shape to buy one of these days.

If it's got low hours, id say run a hone through it if there's no gouges in the cylinders. To get the full potential out of that 4mil, you're gonna want to have it ported to match the increased stroke. By the way thank you for serving, I have served a tour over there myself and I can think of a lot better ways to spend a year. :thumbsup:

Not lookin so good. :sad: What was your breakin procedure on it??? Almost looks like a cold seize, is it the same on the other sides of the piston? Did you let her warm up a few minutes before you rode it? Those are the factory sized base gaskets BTW, I don't think that was your problem at all.

Looks like you're running a long rod crank with standard pistons. just looking at the pics, but like blowit said.....we would need some measurements from the timing edge of the piston to the deck at TDC to be sure. If it measures @5mm then 795 series wiseco's will fix the problem. If it measures @7mm then you have a 4mm stroker with long rods and you'll need 795's and rechambered head or 795's and a spacer plate.

Was it a good quality guage, and did you hold the thottle wide open to get those #'s. Did you do some good warm up cycles before you rode it. Who was the builder that did your port work?? You should have noticed a significant increase in power. As said above, you may have put thick base gaskets in her, stock are @.025" if I remember right off the top of my head.

Like I said in my earlier post, do a search and learn how to do a plug chop!!! dial your mains in first, then your needle position and then your pilot. 330 seems a bit large on the mains for fmf's with a trail port.

Yamaha specifies 10w-40 yamalube 4R, but it's really up to the individual. I run type f atf in mine, clutch grabs hard, it's light so it offers less resistance and it's cheap. Downfall is that it needs changed more frequently. A lot of guys run the gear saver oils or light weight gear oils. Just make sure you don't run synthetics because they will cause your clutch to slip and eventually give out. My honest recommendation is a motorcycle specific 10W-30 or 10W-40 if it's just for recreational riding.

Dave, looks like he's a Michigan boy too....Maybe yours is one of the "drag banshees" that he beat...lol I wonder how many people will believe his line of bs. Pretty funny though. Gonna have to get me a set of those (sleeper) drag pipes :yelrotflmao:

Out of the dozens of cylinders I've ported over the years, I haven't done a whole lot of early banshees. Most of them have been at least 95 or newer. The last while I've gotten a couple of sets of earlier banshee cylinders in and have noticed that the factory casings on them are much cleaner (less flawed) than the later years. I was just curious to see how many of the other builders have noticed the same thing?? :shrug: I think yamaha's quality control on the banshee castings went by the wayside the last few model years. Doing a set of jugs from an 89 right now and have noticed almost no casting flaws on them.

I'm currious how many people have allready paid for this bike and are waiting for it to be shipped...lol

If you're rich off idle then turning your air screws in is only worsening the problem. On stock carbs in is rich out is lean. Good rule of thumb is if your air screws are behind the slide turn them in to richen the mixture, if they are in front of the slide turn them out to richen the mixture. One other thing to consider if it's bogging and choppy in the bottom end is your carb sync, make sure youre slides are set at the same height and open at precisely the same time. Do a search on here and learn to do a plug chop to dial your jetting in. As for the 4mill, it will depend some on your port durations. But, If it has all the same bolt on mods it may require a little more jet, but should be fairly close to the same.

I think that may have been a typo, that bike has 270 mains in it...lol 3 turns is damn far out! I would say your pilot has to be rich, but 27.5's should work just fine at your elevation with t-5's. 110 on each side is a little low, but not too bad. Start with the most simple things first. How does your air filter/s look. Are your plugs new? Do you notice any fuel coming from your overflow hoses? Check those things first and report back.

I agree, also while it's all apart I'd do a pancake bearing and billet impellor. Make sure you put new seals in it too.

Talk to kevin, he built it...he should be the one giving you the advice.