rtcc

You should probably check with the manufacturer of your swingarm. A lot of aftermarket arms dont come with skid plate tabs unless they are requested. what kind of skid plate is it?

sweet man, I will be there with a pretty larger crew but its mainly dirt bikes. Do you stick around mainly at the drag strip area? Cause we always camp at the other end and mainly hit trails and the biggest dunes.

my mac book pro rules man. superior design than anything else. Really cant see going back to PC. I do run bootcamp and Fusion so I have windows on here to for a select few programs that are PC only.

Im pretty sure he means heel gaurds that are available today. I would think that maybe the ones from a raptor would fit with little modifications. You would have to use raptor footpegs though. I would love some ims heelgaurds but the stock banshee foot peg placement sucks anyway. I am gonna start messing with footpegs from a raptor on my bike and then I might look into doing some sort of heelgaurd. I really need some.

Just got these on and went for my first ride today. First impressions are very good. Noticed right away that my handling is improved 100%. My braking is night and day difference as well. They are radials and the side walls are very strong and do not fold over in the turns at all. I can take off kilter stuff a lot faster. I went on pavement for a very short time and man, I can take corners WAY TOO FAST now. I used to slide some but not anymore. The bumpsteer is almost totally gone but I did install new 4+1 rims as well, which I think has a lot to do with it. I had bandits on the front before and these kick their ass. I wish I could have some razr or razr2 to do a comparison on but I dont. just thought I would share and I will update this in a few weeks when I get some serious time on them. later

PRM has some nice lock nuts on sale now. I know most of the time these cost way to much. http://prm-atv.com/MN.asp?pg=products&grp=110&mfr=9 thought I would let everyone know. anyone have one of these?

my dudes and I are going the weekend of the 10th. Hoping its not gonna be too busy

I dont think you can find anywhere cheaper than RMATV. Every once in a while ebay or someone selling private will have a better deal but by the time you pay to ship it RMATV always comes out on top. For the first time I bought some tires off ebay cause they came out 10 bucks cheaper than Rocky mountain. I dont expect that though. Motosport or bike bandit is decent as well.

Ok thanks everyone. I will probably just go with the TUSK then since I am on a budget and have to get ready for the next dune trip. If it doesnt hold FAST all the way, I figured I would get a FAST over the Barnett since they are the same price. tanks

I have been running the barnett for like three seasons now and Im sure it needs to be changed soon. I was looking around at the prices and I cant find them under a hundred bucks. Im just wondering if anyone has any real world experience running the dirt digger and then another clutch like say the tusk or F.A.S.T.'s clutch. I would love to only pay the 50 bucks for the tusk if I knew it would last as long. thanks

My buddy has them on his 450r and they seem to be holding up really well, they are 6 ply. He beats the hell out of them. They really are very close to the maxxis razrs. I was gonna get some cause he gets them at cost but decided to stick with what I know works and got the razrs.

I always wear all my gear, its when I am not riding "hard" that I always wreck. Wearing riding pants and gloves has saved me so many times. Anyway, I wear Shift full pants that zip off into shorts (0nly in the dunes do I wear shorts) and a Shift jersey. I have started wearing an underarmor compression shirt under that. My Alpinestar tech 3 boots and always gloves, helmet and goggles. honestly my boots are one of the best things I have ever bought for riding, they are so comfortable but they also protect me from almost anything.

I just have the yamaha shop manual. It doesnt explain it that well but by the pictures it shows that they need to be tightened to the left, not against the carrier.

thanks man, but on the lock nuts which way do I tighten them? all the way to the right? or do they like meet in the middle or something? I tightened the right one as tight as it would go and then snugged the left one against it but my bike wouldnt even roll when I pushed it. just not sure what to do. thanks

nNevermind it was the lock nuts. but how do I need to tighten them? When I tighten them all the way to the right the axle doesnt want to move until I loosen them again.

Hey guys, I have never taken apart the axle or carrier on this thing, but recently my axle moves about an 1/8th of an inch in the seam next to the brake rotor. It does it when I move the bike side to side. Is that just the bearings? I want to replace it but Im not sure how hard of a job this will be. Is it worth doing and putting the stock axle back in?

nice that is what I was thinking. I have blaster pegs on now and I keep bending them. the raptor pegs come straight out and seem a lot stronger and wider. I will give it a shot.

Just wondering if the bolt holes will line up. Im sure some parts will have to be trimmed but they seemed liked they were rock solid compared to my banshee pegs.

I am looking for a full set of hipers for the shee. Im looking for 10X5 with 4+1 offset on the fronts. and the rear are gonna be the standard 9X9 rim. hoping for black rings but if the price is right doesnt matter. thanks Terry

I think you might need to go down on your pilot jet. I am still on the stock pilot with several more bolt-ons then just pipes. Not sure how the elevation changes things though. Does it idle alright? I think you are probably rich in the bottom too.

I am talking about the brass colored locking clip or tab on the outside of the carb. It is loosened and tightened with an philips screw. It has teeth that fit the ridges on the carb tops. Also, make sure that the carb slides arent in the wrong carbs. Its kinds tricky but they can be installed on the wrong side and then they make all kinds of problems.

I dont have the motion pro throttle but I had the same problem when I did the TORS removal. I read on here that if the caps are tightened down to tight it makes the throttle stick. I just do them finger tight and then back them off a 1/8th turn or so and then use the locking clips on them and they never stick now. Might be your problem.

Keep unpdating this thread. I am chasing the same problems. When I first go out riding my shee rips, but about 15 minutes later when it gets really hot it misses like crazy on the low and mid throttle. I have backed off the main jets some and it has helped but it will still do it. My only concern is that the plugs are never wet or really black like it is fouled completely. I even changed the plugs once while it was doing it and it didnt help anything. So I am worried it is some crazy electrical problem. I never boil over coolant and it doesnt seem out of the ordinary hot. I really dont know what else to do. I guess I need to start changing out the boots and coils and all that stuff. My stator is only a few months old, but it did it before I put it in as well.

There was a guy on here awhile back that had a problem with a set he got on ebay. They were an older set and they would not fit. I think they were also made for a j-arm frame. There is a thread on here about it. Are they hitting the diagnol frame support? Im pretty sure that is one of the differences between frames.

ok thanks, I will have to try that. I am gonna do plug chop as well. The top end feels so good though, it doesnt spudder out and pulls really hard all the way through, but it makes since what you are saying. Hopefully that is it. I will try backing off the mains one size as well.