rtcc

what are some options to cutting them down, but not a full drag cut. Is there anyway to even them up, so they match on both sides? I cant believe yamaha thought it would be ok to make each side different! I ride only trails and mine stop alot of dirt. But I would like them to be a little bit smaller. I have looked around but havent really found anything like this. Thanks

YES!!! you rule! Those look so good! Thanks so much man. Seriously anyone, Tate does awesome work at amazing prices, and has super fast turn around! I would recommend him to anyone.

I dont have one, but Im pretty sure the TM Designworks one can be installed without taking the swinger off.

Yeah man, you got to have a skid for the swingarm. The full chasis is a good idea as well. I use the PRM skids and I cant explain how well these things are made. They are bulletproof. the website is www.prm-atv.com They are well known and many people on here are running them.

Man, I was thinking about that as well but the metal there is pretty thin. I dont know if they could cut any out of it. I think they would just have to make a whole new flange and add the grooves then weld it on my pipe, but I dont think I need to do all that. I better figure it out soon though cause they are going to powder coat this week! thanks

Awesome thanks man, thats what I needed to know was specifically what silicone people use. I will get some of that and seal it up! Thanks man!

Hey guys, I just picked up a set of PT high revs, and they are the 92 editions. These pipes freakin rock, I love them so much. My only complaint is that the flanges that fit on the cylinder heads dont have a place to set an oring. I dont know if its just the older design or what. I have some new orings but they are way to fat to fit under the pipes. My old FMF's actually had a groove for an oring to sit, Im sure most pipes do to. What is my options? I am going to see if the autoparts store carries any thinner orings in the same size that I might be able to squeeze under there. Im only worried about this becuase they leak out quit a bit of exhuast and they are making a mess on my frame and stuff. thanks for the help!

Cool, I would love to pick some up but that is way our of my price range. If you know anyone selling some let me know! thanks

http://www.motosport.com/offroad/search.ph...2=FRONT+BUMPERS motosport has some more. I was looking at the two ROCK brands. I think they look pretty good. And they come already in black which is nice.

Preferably V paddles already on rims, but let me know what you got, anything might work out. thanks Terry

what color are they? are they the powermadds?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...sspagenameZWDVW I know people say these are pretty hard to find. Thought I would just throw it out there.

I got a hairline crack in my foot one time from slipping while running up stairs with now shoes on. You might use it for work...heh

Man, those look really nice. My only thing is the heel gaurd looks kinda strange. Not sure what it is, maybe just the skinny bars. They dont look as nice as the rest of the nerfs. Also, how thick are the main bars? Cause the AC pro pegs are really think, Im not sure but they look almost like 1". If his are that thick I dont think he would have any trouble competing with them. 350 is pretty high though. You think he will be able to come down in price eventually?

are your footpegs in the stock location? I have blaster pegs on mine and then I have them doubled up toward the rear. I am 6'4" so I really like having them back more. Helps me keep my weight forward. I really want these nerfs but it would suck if they are up too far. thanks for the pictures.

Cool, are yours the ones with the heel guards? I thought they made some without them at first.

Its a whole new cover. http://www.rjatv.com/index.asp?PageAction=...amp;ProdID=2688

I am wondering where they put the foot pegs on them? Are the forward like the stock pegs or are they straight out like they should be? Also, there is two different kinds now, which one do you guys like better? The blacklines have the replaceable pegs and netting behind the pegs. Thanks

Man, its almost sad to think that none of those quads are going to exist anymore.

Yeah thanks man, I went riding today and I looked at it and I see now why you have to do the bar all the way through. Makes perfect sense. I wonder what would happen if I still bent it some???? It would be impossible to get out of there. I will think this all through some more. Thanks for all the help Terry

yeah I was thinking about that, but I was kinda worried I would just bend those as well! I would be so pissed, but today I went riding with a guy who has the AC pro pegs and they are really damn beefy. I dont think I would bend them at all. I will buy some in the future Im sure.

oh shit, so ALL the way through!!? So each peg is attached to each other in a way. What would would be the benefits of that compaired to just drilling out the hole like you said and then adding say a 4in bolt with a nut on each side. Instead of the one big althread? I feel like the one long bolt will just get beat to hell under there, cause I ride in some rocky shit. Thanks for the help though, I will look her over today and see what the best approach is!

Ok, so like a hole all the way through the frame and then what? just put nuts on both ends? That actually does sound like a really good idea.

That sounds, wierd. I cant think of what else to call it. Anyway, I am a pretty big guy and I have always jumped my banshee. I would always bend the shit out of the stock pegs and now I have some blaster pegs on there that are doubled up. Anyway, now the weak link seems to be the socket where the back bolt of my pegs goes into the frame. It now faces down at almost a 45* angle. So even if the peg is not bent it still has a slight rake downward. I am wondering what I would have to do to fix this. Can the threading be pulled out and something new put in its place? Is there any options besides welding? Thanks Terry

yeah I think it is probably rich on one or more of the circuits. I always have trouble because it matters where or how I am riding. Cause if im not able to get on it all the time I might mainly be riding on the needle circuit and then when I shut it down that is what is showing the most. But based on what I have read and done, you should look at the metal ring around it not the ceramic and it seems like it has a good over all jetting. Dont know if that really helps anything, but a plug chop will tell you for sure.