sheerider1026

gears in the tranny mesh together, when you shift they slide on the shafts that they rotate on to engage the next gear. when the gears have an abnormal amount of pressure between them(from high horsepower). they don't wanna disengage, or even move for that matter.. hope that kinda makes sense.. its kinda like having a loose leaf piece of paper in a book on the floor, easy to pull that paper out, but have someone stand on the book and see if it wants to budge.

well i will also tell you this.. i had a 96 banshee transmission that had a lot of time on it.. i could always powershift that tranny, has a stock cylinder setuo on it.. then you can hop on another bike and its harder to shift.. not sure.. but mine is hard to shift under WOT.. not impossible to shift though... i will give the "stutter box" a try and see what happens..

an overide gives you the advantage of clutchless shifting, but also gives you the advantage of positive easy shifting.. you get both with the overide.. it is the better way to go. the mull "stutter box" is a ifferent approach for esier shifting.. go out and cruise around on your banshee, at a moderates speed you can shift without using the clutch ( less load or power on the tranny). now hold it wide open and try to shift without the clutch.. you will see what i am talking about on the "more power=harder to shift"

there are plenty of people with cubs and other motors making a lot of power that have this problem man.. what do you think overide trannys are for?? when these trannys are put under more stress, they don't wanna shift, they want to stay in the gear they are currently in..

no overide.. its just the cubs put out a lot of power, ptting more pressure on the transmission, which in turns makes shifting a lot harder when drag racing.. its a new build so i know its not the tranny.. u gotta be good on the clutch to make your shifts with this motor. it revs fast.. would be easier to use this "stutter box" and forget the clutching and just shift..

no, under normal riding it shifts just fine!! just under WOT its hard to shift,,,.. normal for a cub motor.

looks like i will be giving it a try.. i personally talked to mull engineering about this box. he said it works awesome.. its the perfect thing for someone that likes to rec ride and occasionally drag race.. mite give it a try on my cub motor bike, its a pain in the ass to shift when racing sometimes.. it basically unloads the gears for a millisecond to allow a easy shift..

yea, why the hell does the motor look like it is backwards?? the kicker and clutch cover is on the wrong side, so is the chain!! WTF? camera in mirror mode??

yea i would take the flywheel back off (carefully) so you can maybe see what went wrong.. if nothing seems wrong, reinstall it, regap your pickup with a business card ( a lot thiner than a credit card as staqted above ^^^) .. it starting to sounds like your pickup is not gapped close enough..

yea i will agree that the quality of the cpi's are not that great.. it sounds like someone on ebay is buying factory defect pipes and reselling them as new... hence the dent, and the stamps on the wrong sides.

are you sure you advanced the timing and didn't retard the timing?? also was your woodruff key ok?? and did you reinstall the flywheel with a air impact?? do not put grease or anything on the crankshaft when reinstalling the flywheel!

yea, send those back.. that sounds shitty!! you bought new pipes, and thats what you should get!! i am particular with my shit.. its just the way i am..

oh yes, you can get 80hp out of stock cylinders if they are ported right.. it has been done.. i will tell you my opinion because i also ran t5's on my cub (waiting for the cpi's) and they sucked eggs!! i put the cpi's, jetted the bike, and its a screamer!!. its still rich so i can go leaner and get more out of it! hey dajogejr, whats a good number to play with my timing at?? runnin 93 pump gas, 20cc domes.. i think i can go leaner and add more timing to this motor yet.. its definately tuned on the safe side as of now.. and yes, these are lightswitch power motors. at first there is nothing, then it is BALLS TO THE WALL!!

dam i gotta get in on this... lol.. i have a 392 cub on my play bike.. i am runing a +2 swingarm.. yea, its a fuckin handful for me to ride!! it has inframe cpi's, and 33mm pwk's. i am running it on 93.. i trail ride it here in the hills of kentucky also, but like i said, its a handfull.. 9 times out of 10 i leave the cub bike at home when i go riding on my other banshee (its a trail/play port stock cylinder bike) . here is my advice to anyone looking into a cub motor.. if you are looking for more power and you trail/woods ride, just get your stock cylinders ported to match your riding style. unless you like a wild ride go for the cub.. not sure who all has a cub motor but these little motors pull real fucking hard up top!!! by mid day when i am out riding, nobody will race me on my cub bike!!! but i like having something that screams like hell and puts a smile on my face, so i will keep my cub.. the end.

hey jason, that sounds good to me.. been to michigan before.. not that bad of a haul.. im like you, so jealous of all you guys riding the dunes out in the west, never rode sand and can't wait to try it out.. definately gonna take the cub bike.. shoot me a pm ..

what year is the bike?? do you know what bore its on?? if its still on stock bore i would say the crank is ok. i would still look at it close.. as far as the rods, yes they will wiggle a little side to side, this is normal.. just send them to F.A.S.T or passion racing to get them bored.. only bore as much as you need to clean the cylinders up.. sometime re-ringing a motor will get you by, but if the piston/cylinder clearence is too much the motor will be loose and not last long.. or cause more severe damage..

ok. when i first built my cub motor i tried a set of t5's.. then put the cpi's on there.. lets just say that the cpi's never came back off.. they held the motor back (choked) horribly.. don't do it man.. cpi's or shearers!!! if you want the power that the t5's put out , why id u buy a cub?? but if its all you have at the moment i would use them until the UPS guy brings you better pipes..

yea u like the license plate? lol.. thought that was funny.. had that made at a little sidewalk shop in gatlinburg TN. yes there are some nice rides on here guys, keep'm coming.

hey man.. im not bashing on anyones business here but i would suggest you get jeff at fast to port your cylinders.. some of these local small shops can end up being a guy with a die grinder , a cold fifth, and a danked up blunt!! lol.. seriously though its better to pay a little extra when getting you banshee ported, that way its done right and you are getting what you are paying for... not saying that your local guy isn't good.. just something to think about..

hmmm. wonder if you could stretch a uni filter over a K&N? sounds kinda EF'D up but would definately save your motor.. hmmm. maybe i should try that..

runnin about 14 psi on the boost, its a 331 stroker all forged, victor jr. heads, blower grind cam, the list goes on forever... should be in the mid 10's.. its very light, has a tubular k member and a arms also.. puttin out about 520 hp at the wheels.... and yes its BUILT not BOUGHT!! thats the best part isn't it?? it has a stand alone accel dfi gen 7 fuel injection, sumped tank with aeromotive fuel system.. once upon a time it was an automatic 4 banger car..

the 2 into 1 pipe is excellent IMO.. has good usable power down low.. JMO

if he wants a mx/woods pipe, i say you are all wrong.. he needs a 2 into 1 pipe for that.. we have one on the wifeys bike.. its a lot of fun to ride.. and still screams up top,,

maybe you have a plug starting to foul?? can cause some extra unburnt oil in the pipes.. hard to say.. can you be more precise on where the oil is coming from?? the engine cases?? pipe?? clutch cover??

hell. u want bottom end?? go with a 2 into 1 pipe.. smoother power, but it will still haul ass.. of course it won't runout on topend like a set of t5's or cpi's.