robert.b.west

I would recommend getting rid of the boost bottle also, it can tear the intake boots BUT you have to put the stock crossover back on. If you do not have it you could buy one for like $15. The idle could be as simple as adjusting the idle screws or you may need to clean the carbs or air filter.

Bills are a bottom end pipe. I believe they have went out of business in the last couple years. The builder around me swears by bills pipes. He told me I need to get rid of my toomeys and get bills, I told him that I ride mostly dunes and like the higher rpms. there was just no changing these guys minds.

I have seen that people with atf type f change it every few rides but how long on motor oil or a gear oil? I usually only change mine once or twice a year. Is that normal? I ride usually 10-12 weekends a year.

Autozone sells an oil that says ATV on it. it is a 10w40 and it can be used with wet clutches. it is like $3-$4 a quart. It says 4-stroke but it works just fine. I have used it before with no problems.

Jeff at fast has a sync tool www.farmandsandtoys.com that is where I got mine. I would have guess your main to be around 270-280 but I would do a plug chop to verify what you have.

Take a blow torch and heat one up for like 20-30 seconds then take some vice grips and turn the stud. I stripped mine out trying to get them off but as soon as I put some heat on the bolts they come right out.

That pretty much sounds like what mine is doing except mine cuts out longer and stays on longer and I have no clue what it is. Let me know what you figure out so I can check on mine.

I am 135 lbs and I would bottom out at the dunes but I did it for years. The stock shocks can cause a harder landings. I have the 450 shocks up front now much nicer and no bottoming out.

Just start at a 300 and do a plug chop. Work your way down till you get it right.I think you will end up around a 270-280 tho.

I totally agree with these. We never get stopped when we go up just by doing this.

Nothing really changed but I will check for air leaks and clean the carbs.

When the problem started a while back in september there was not much weather change from the last couple time it had been rode. I have taken the carbs off and I did clean them. I will see if that helps when it is back together. I was just trying to think of something else it could be because jetting just did not make sense why it is doing this. I can be riding full throttle high rpms and it will just cut out for a second stutter at low rpms then the power comes back.

When I give it wide open throttle from a stop it seems to take some throttle then stutter for about a second or two then it will rev all the way.Almost positive that it is not jetting because the problem just arose out of no where one weekend after the jetting was fine for months. Could this be an electrical problem? Stator, coil, cdi? I have no idea any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

You go to ferris state right? which is like a little over an hour to silver lake and you are not there every weekend?

I like the 20x10x9 8 paddle extreme or 9 paddle regular haulers. I would not waste your money on fronts yet. Get the rears dirt tires work fine up front.

I don't think that a modded shift star is going to help you find neutral any better. It should just make shifting between the gears easier.

I don't think you need a "brake light" but maybe just a rear running light

Not the steels, these:

If all of this stuff is okay your inner and/or outer pressure plates may be warped, it may not even appear damaged, mine did not. This happened to me i replaced with a new clutch with hd springs everything was lined up and still slipped really bad. I ordered the inner and outer plates from jeff at fast (inner $34 and outer $20) after I replaced them I had no more slip.

I have 33s which i believe are the same od. I use a k&n with a 2-1/4"id 5" long and a 10deg bend in the filter for clearance reasons and make sure you get outerwears if you get k&ns

I agree that would be a great idea

I agree.Dont waste your money on a aluminum box. if you have stock carbs the proflow kit allows you to take of your air box lid and it is nice.

I have a set of k&n pods with outerwears and never had any problem with water or mud. I have water skimmed at the dunes and the air filters are in a location that they do not get that much water splash on them. I have had my banshee covered in mud and the air filters are still relatively clean.

The stock carbs are good until you start doing more motor work such as porting, stroking, larger bore where you need more air in.

I am going to try an automotive paint that you have to mix that has a hardener which makes it resistant to these solvents. first tho you need to put down an adhesion promoter to make it stick to plastic. The only thing i am worried about is if it will be flexible enough to be on plastic without cracking. i will report back when i am done.