robert.b.west

I have the same problem and I believe it is my idler gear, does not seem real tight.

I second the 96db, I was there this weekend. If you want to get on all you have to do is park by the dune and if they are checking sound all you have to do is wait till they pull one person over to check them then there is about 5 while they check them that you are safe to get in. As long as they are checking one person they will not call another person over OR I have never seen it happen.

PM me your number if you have something thanks

I need these parts by wednsday or at the latest thrusday. going to the sand dunes please help.

I was wondering if you have a clutch actuator push rod and ball for a clutch how much all three would be, and how i could contact you.

Well I had a feeling that I was going to have to split the case. I took the clutch actuator and it looked like it had welded it self to the pushrod as well. I wish i would have read this earlier I have already taken the motor out and taken the cylinders off. O well. I was thinking about ordering the pancake bearing thursday but ended up not doing so now I guess I will. Thanks guys.

I tried a magnet and it seems to be sticking on something is there another way to get it out?

I welded the ball to the outer plate and now I just want to check to see if it need to replace the pushrod also. Is it held in place by anything or can I just use a magnet to get it out.

I dont have a lockup yet, I was wondering if I should get one? I was looking at the one that fits in the stock cover from hrj. I would just like to learn a little more about them before I get on. How they work what they do kinda stuff.

I noticed my clutch started slipping back in the fall and just thought that it was time to get a new one so I did. I installed it and went to the sand dunes it continued to slip and even get worse so I figured it was a cheap clutch so would get another one. (It was a tusk and I replaced it with a toomey.) It continued to slip so I heard it could be the pressure plates that seemed to fix the problem for a little while but not long. I had taken maybe 20 passes down the drag strip at the dunes before it seemed like it was starting to slip again. I just dont know what to do. I replaced my ez pull lever because it did not seem like I was not getting enough pull out of it I would sit at the line and rev up and it would creep forward but would still not ever fully engage. I will do what ever I need to. Oh I for got to mention 3-10% stiffer springs 3-100% stiffer springs. Sorry for the novel but I would appreciate any advice.

Does anyone else with these carbs have this problem. My thumb gets tired after riding short periods of time and whenever someone gets on they always comment about how stiff it is. Can I just cut the springs in the carbs a little to make them a little shorter or do they make different springs? Any input would be great.

Thanks for all the help i am more of a 2 stroke guy so this may be out of my abilities. But i will see what i can do.

He stopped riding it about a year ago when it started overheating. It turns out that it was the water pump. After sitting for this long it just does not want to rev up. We put new gas in it, he cleaned the carbs out. He did say the night before that he could rev it up but on half choke. I am stumped, it seems like the rpms are being limited by the spark but he said it would rev the night before. Also is there a way to test the cdi box to tell if there is something wrong with it. thanks

My buddy has a ds650 and we can only get it to idle every time we give it gas it backfires thru the carb. we have checked the the parking brake rev limiter and i have played around with the air screw and the needle position and cant get anything to work. Can anyone give me at lease some positions for the needle airscrew and jet sizes and possibly some ideas on what it could be.

I will be there that weekend

I can drive it around with little problem but when I hard accelerate it slips really bad (I almost got beat by a blaster on the drag strip and my cousins outlaw beat me which never happens).I have tried almost everything I can think of. I have changed the clutch(toomey clutch with 100% stiffer springs) , I have adjusted accordingly (arrow lined up) I checked the flatness of outer pressure plate which was .041 mm which is about 1.6 thousandths. I would appreciate any ideas.

A little more info would help as far as anything else you have done but if mostly stock toomey says start around a 280 on the main

I would have thought that the warrior and the banshee would be the same axle. Maybe I will have to tear apart my dads warrior and check.

The raptor 660 or 700 or both

Is the one from the warrior the same? if it is I will just buy that one. Thanks.

Let me know if you have one and how much shipped to 43613.

I have checked the "for sale" and did not see anything. The only axles I can find are for the raptor 700

There was alot of them on ebay but none of them said banshee and I was not sure if the raptor ones were the same as the banshee.

I would like to get a g force axle but I dont know where to get one. rocky mountain is out of stock till june. any thoughts?

No I removed the tab that the air box rides on but it also touches the stinger tube on the left side. I believe I have found an old post that said that the t-5s and t-6s do this. they said to put this slip on insulator over the stinger pipe. I will have to find it later. Could someone with k&n's and t-6's or t-5s and a boss intake post a picture or just someone with k&n's post a picture. I just want to see what someone elses looks like.