bansheesandrider

I run Klotz Flex Drive 30, part # KL506. Been using it for 15+ years and I have had no problems- no clutch balls welded to the pushrod, zero wear on gears, bearings and clutch and the bike shifts better than it did with ATF,motor oil, Honda or BelRay gear oil. It is not cheap oil, bot I figure that expensive oil is still cheaper than gears and bearings.

If it is not rusted in place or overtightened, you can use a pair of 90 degree external snap ring pliers, just put the tips in opposite corners and squeeze and turn.

Do you have it overfull? When I fill mine, I fill the radiator, start the bike and let it idle until it is fully warm. Then I take it for a spin,under both heavy and light load at high and low speed, come back, let it idle for a minute and shut it down and let it cool completely. After it is cool, I check the level cold and it is usually just above the core in the top tank, this is where I run it. It is normal for it to spit a little coolant during this process, but it should only spit it out until it stabilizes the level. If it continues to blow coolant every time you ride it, something else is wrong. Of course I have done away with the overflow bottle.

Be careful when you drill out the carb body for the idle screws, it is really easy to get the holes to big. I usually use a drill bit that is one size smaller than what the tap calls for and use lots of cutting oil, that wat if the drill wobbles any you can still not get to big. If the tap won't start after drilling them, then you can make a quick pass with the correct bit and be good to go. Also, you will need to file or grind the angle off the boss on the carb body so the locknut sits flat, you may even need to take a little extra off to have room for the nuts.

Most guys on here are really down on Ricky Stator stuff because they switched from Made In USA to made in China and quality seems to have gone to shit when they did it. Don't use a degree key, use a timing plate. If you have ever seen a half wore out woodruff key, that is what a degree key looks like. It is half sheared off when it is new, and if your flywheel ever is slightly loose and "works" on the crank it will finish shearing off and leave you stranded.

That chart is almost complete, the only ones that I see are missing are the 2006 50th anniversary edition in yellow and black with the retro graphics, and from 1999 to 2004 they do not show the blue version that was offered in those years. From 87 thru 95 there was always one color scheme, and from 96 to 02 there was 2 choices, starting in 03 there was 2 choices of regular Banshee plus a LE version until 06 when there was 2 regular Banshees, a LE version AND the SE or 50th anniversary edition. Of course the LEs were a different color sceme but usually the frame and suspension were a diferent color than the regular silver.

A Maier rad. cover looks totally different than stock- the screws that hold the grille in are exposed and you can only run a Maier grille in it. I don't know of anybody else that makes seperate radiater and fuel tank covers. There are several 1 piece front ends on the market, but obviously those are not stock.

Anybody got any input on this?

I am getting ready to build a Banshee from scratch and will be needing new bearings for everything on the chassis. When we put an extended swingarm on the kid's Blaster, I bought a kit from either All Balls or Pivot Works for the bearings. Anyway it seemed like nothing fit right and I had to reuse the collars/spacers that I took out instead of the new ones. So, my question is, are there any other manufacturers and who's kits are better? I have always preferred OEM parts for stuff like this, but with my current situation, if I can save some money, I might get it together sooner. Thanks for your input.

If you are talking about the hose at the bottom rear of the float bowl, that hose serves 2 purposes. One, it is a hose for the drain valve, and two, it is an overflow hose. As far as the drain side is concerned, make sure that the drain screw is tight, but not overtight. It is the screw on the bottom of the float bowl next to the hose. As far as the overflow part, it could be an incorrect float level that never shuts off, or it could be a needle and seat problem, including the o ring on the outside of the seat.

The only years of Banshees that had 4x156 rear hubs were 89 and 90, all other years were 4x115. With the 4x156 hubs you are locked into a 10 inch wheel. If you are buying used hubs, make sure the splines are in excellent shape, I had to replace an axle because the hub splines were wore and I couldn't keep them tight, so they wore the axle splines down also. Luckily it was a Lonestar Axcaliber and it snapped at the sprocket carrier and they replaced it under warranty. That was how I discovered the worn splines and I replaced the hub also. You might want to check your VIN and verify that it is a 91 and not a 90.

Ya, it is called a DC conversion. You have to float the ground in the stator, add a rectifier/regulator after removing the stock regulator, add a battery,etc. If you search the technical documents, I believe there is a write up on doing this, also search for "Banshee lighting upgrades" on the web and you will find the info you need.

Sounds to me like you have an "assembled" bike. I know for a fact that Yamaha did not put a brakelight on the Banshee until 2002, but that does not mean that somebody else could have for whatever reason.

Since the noise goes away when you pull the clutch, it is probably transmission related in the inner cases. Every thing under the clutch cover is spinning whenever the engine is running, except the kickstarter gear. So you are probably going to need to split the cases, but before you do, inspect all the gears and bearings in the clutch area, the water pump and look for any extra parts laying in there, or snap rings missing.

WE really need to know your elevation, it will affect both your jetting and what domes you should run. You can go on Google Earth, I think, and find your elevation.If you are at higher elevations, your jetting will be leaner and your domes should be smaller than if you are at lower elevation. High elevation has less oxygen in the air so you need less fuel also, and there is less atmosheric pressure at high elevations so the cylinders don't fill as well and therfore you need to squeeze it harder.

Usually, but not always, they cannot make you add something to an older piece of equipment to make it comply with a newer law. This is called "being grandfathered". AS far as lights being required, it usaully only applies if you are riding after dark, and I would think that they would only require a taillight, not a brake light.

What you are feeling is the piston rocking in the bore when the crankshaft changes direction. All pistons do this to some degree because of the operating clearance, it gets worse as the bore wears and becomes what is known as piston slap. If it is quiet when its running you are OK.

My mistake, I was thinking Boss but typed Magnum. The Magnum in the picture doesn't look like my Hinson, but my Hinson is very old. I got it when Hinson was the only thing out there.

Wasn't the first question I asked about the adjustment at the bars and at the pressure plate? And I don't think he meant the steels were warped, I think he meant the pressure plate and clutch hub themselves, where the friction plates ride.

That would not be the rod bearings, it would be the crankshaft(main) bearings. Are you wiggling it basc and forth or twisting it back and forth?

Unless you have water in your gas tank, there is no need to run Seafoam or Heat. You have no more than 6 inches of rubber gas line, there is no metal gas line wth any pockets to hold water on a Banshee and rubber line is much harder to freeze.

My pesonal choice would be the TM Designworks one that is plastic and goes arond the countershaft for an anchor. It is plastic which will absorb the impact instead of billet which will transfer the impact to the mounting bolts. Like I said the countershaft is far bigger than anything else around there, and it is completly surrounded by metal so it is very well supported and won't be breaking any ears off of the cases.

Was it properly adjusted, both at the handlebars and at the pressure plate? Is the clutch ball welded to the pushrod? Was the pressure plate installed properly, you have to line up the arrows on the pressure plate and the clutch hub? Did you actually measure the plates and compare it to the spec in the manual? You do have a manual don't you? Are the springs weak? This oughta get you started.

Toomey also make an excellent clutch kit. I have had the same one in my bike since about 1995 and the last time i was in there it still looks like new, and i fan my clutch alot. I also use Klotz Flex Drive 30, part # KL506, for oil.

You are probably going to have to get a suspesion parts catolog and search through it by the specs to find some ball joints, by suspension catolog i mean like Moog or TRW. Finding a true ball joint with a 3/4- 16 thread and the right taper for Banshee spindle will be difficult, I know there are some Automotive tie rod ends that will work, but they are not a "ball joint" and don't hold up very well. The other thing is try some of the ATV suspension manufacturers and see if they have any ideas, or cut the threads out of the a arms and weld in new sleeves with metric threads.