Duneman101

so are you guys saying that you can get tickets for speeding at the dunes??? and drage racing??? is the area some kind of speed zone? If that is the case that fuckin blows and i feel bad for you now.

have the cylinders measured with bore guages in a few spots up and down the cylinder and left to right in a few spots, thats how to tell if you need a bore. you probably couldn't really tell it was out of round or anything by just looking. if there were no obvious signs of wear and it measures within tolerance, i would say re ring it and new gaskets should be plenty sufficient, make sure to hone them too, with a good crosshatch.

not trying to be a dick, but mechanics at the dealerships don't know SHIT from a cresent wrench, and a cresent wrench is what they will use to bend you over, they are thieves. You need to do a good leak down test, not with soapy water, but with plugs and a pressure guage. 6lbs for 6 minutes. if the dealerships idea of fixxing the lean problem is a 420 main jet in a stock stroke CPI piped bike, they are fuckin crazy. there is an underlying problem, not a crank, maybe a crank seal though. or leaky case. your pistons should have a little play side to side, but your crank rods shouldn't really.

gotta love this, you can see his grab bar bending in the pic... what a couple jokes

nice deal man! just a little warning! putting a basket case together can be the most miserable frusterating experience ever, you end up with a machine that you know very well though because you have done everythinng yourself. just when you think you have everything coming together and your making progress you find that you need some odd nuts and bolts, thats what pissed me off.

i fought mine for the first couple months of the season, i never figured out what was wrong with it, i got a used one off ebay for $10, compared them couldn't see any differences, the spring tension was the same everything looked exaclty the same, put the new one on and haven't had any issues since....

def not a heat issue... looks like the ring just got out enough to catch the port. that sucks. when you rebuilt the top end did you have it bored or just a hone?

what kind of work does the trailer need? could it be towed a thousand miles as it is now?

for god's sake don't ask a question if you won't read the answers... you need to adjust that screw till the point on the clutch cable arm and the point on the case match... it's not that difficult, if you put the screw in all the way and it doesn't match tighten up that lock nut and use the cable adjustment on the perch to get the rest of the way.

put some 1 inch square tubing every 4 feet and use a couple sheets of diamond plate... that shit will last forever. it's be costly now, but strong and easy to maintain... if you don't have the dough for it right now, i would go with some 2x6 or 2x10 planks run length wise. if you don't get treated planks make sure to hit it with some thomspsons water sealer or some thing or it won't last.

didn't you read what i wrote??? it's also in the manual.

no, you don't just snug it. there is a little point on the end of the clutch cable arm and a little arrow on the case you have to match those up. adjust your cable on the perch all the way in then then adjust that nut until the little point on the arm and the point on the case line up.... if you have the pancake bearing on the back of the clutch this will be a little different, but if you are all stock thats the way to do it.

I've been using klotz R50 for like 10 years, proabably a couple hundred tanks of gas. it's always been great. used it in banshees, blasters, kx500, trx250r, and a couple chainsaws.

pick up the front end and drop it a few times, it will help get the air to move, it's a real bitch to get those lines filled. a vacuum pump bleeder is only $20 at auto zone, it's worth it even if you only ever bleed your brakes twice in a lifetime... which probably won't be the case.

+1 on what Daj said.... Big time props to Kanoodle for the pics and explanation, damn cool of you!

bad thing about pickle forks is they will tear your dust boots on the A-arms... i would use some good penatrating oil like PB blaster, put the nut on so its flush with the top of the bolt and tap on it with a hammer, i've always had good luck with this method, and haven't messed up any threads

It's not real genius work, but this should help.

that will definetly run different from the stock cylinder with all that sleeve hang over... you shouldn't have a gap between the bottom of the cylinder and the sleeve either...

take the carb apart and clean it really well, then get a new air filter or clean the one on it real good. while you are cleaning the carb make sure all of the plugs and screws are in it.

yeah rider weight has a lot to do with it, plus gearing, tire size, and pipes...

Ok ladies, I just got a set of 34mm pjs; both from stock 250r's. Everyone has said that my torrs eliminated cables should fit right in to the 34's but there isn't an adjustor or anyway to peacefully remove the stock cable from the stock cap? the top of the cap where the cable goes through has this brass or copper bushing thing that prevents the old cable from pulling through. How the hell do i get this to work? I thought about drilling it out and tapping it to use the adjusters i already have? the caps i have on the stock banshee carbs look big enough, but the thread pattern is different. PS...by the way pay no attention to my mods list i haven't updated it, so none of the 34s are way to big for that motor... i am dune ported with t-5's and some other goodies now.

that better be unicorn shit instead of mud for 7K

hell be glad it might only jump up to $40, up at st ants you have to pay per night, the cheapest there just to set up a tent now is 16 per night. if you have a camper or 5th wheel your lookin at 25 per night without hookups.... i was stoked when we went to glamis last year and paid $25 for a week.

i had a milled head on mine before i ported it was perfect took it down .030 done by Torque Racing http://www.torque-racing.com/Store/catalog/ he had it back real quick was a hella good deal. took it down to about 20-21 CC's, when i ported i needed to go another step further down so the cool head was the way to go... i do almost all dune riding by the way.