dragbanshee

Thanks lilmeg! They look good too!

Sounds like you just need to put a little more leverage into it, are you drag racing when this happens?

Don't feel bad I didn't know what the hell he was talking about either, till you said where it was. I even went back and looked twice before I read your post. Chris, is this one of your latest port jobs? You been watching to many:....Its so easy a cave man can do it, commercials.

Get the wheel spacers "1 piece" I wouldn't trust those individual ones for shit, can't believe they make em. I had 2" rear ones and now their on my sons raptor, think their made by Gforce. Plus they make a new 2" extended hub, which is the way I would go if I was going wide again. Rocky Mountain ATV $80-90.

Those are some Hella lights u have there!! :biggrin:

Yep, talked to a dealer and they said the same thing, they were not selling anymore till they get paid.

Sorry, I read something about this on here before and cannot for shit, remember what they said. Im thinking they said it did not make a difference in running when plugged or not.

Welcome, and glad you got through the build ok.

What Larry's saying is that some of the parts interchange, but do not work! The banshee's start very easy when tuned right and decent compression. That should be in the range of around 125psi per cylinder depending on where you are located and what has been done to the bike, lot of variables. Mine will start 1st or 2nd kick cold every time, and your grandson's bike will too when ur done. Welcome to the site, you'll learn what you need to know here.

I think its anything under 25 years old and gets under 18 miles to the gallon, you can trade in on a new vehicle of your choice, well almost. You prolly do not have it there, they take ur old vehicle and basically fry the motor and smash the body, seems like a hell of a waste on good body parts. I could be wrong on the body parts. They give you 3500-4500 plus any other incentives they have going.

May want to check pilots one could be clogged, you should be fine with the jetting you have. Have you adjusted the a/f screws? Screw in and lightly seat them and back out 1.25 - 1.5 out. Oh yeah, nice chevy!

Yeah, try and photoshop it 1st, That sounds like a cool color combo though. Maybe even reverse the a-arms and swinger to match white front and rear plastics, just a thought!

Oh I understand, I thought you prolly just forgot! Check it out, and if not grab some 290's or 300's and try them with no lid, with lid 280-290

If no one else steps up, I'll try one Brandon, need to replace stock anyway.

Very nice bike!

Sounds like maybe some other issues as well, I had 25s in mine with no problem at all starting and idling, But I would put 27.5's in, out of the three since you got em.

Atleast 280 and up, FAST prolly sent you 300 or larger, unless the info given to him was mistaken.

Makes things easier on Lee & Loco.

Id get rid of that fuel for sure, and clean the carbs, their prolly gummed up, maybe even check the tank. Good Luck with it!

Yeah leave pilots at 25, you need to go in and make sure the pilots are clear, they clogg easily. Check the floats, valve seats, then make sure you have the "slides in the right carbs". The cutouts to the rear of bike, then make sure the "choke tube is in place on carbs", rubber hose that connects carb to carb. Check the e brake, and the TORS.

Anything left after the bore job... LOL. :biggrin: Do you have many of these left Brandon? thanks!

No pipes? With pipes 300-320

Looks like a decent setup, u think thos would fit the 28mm keihins? and is this for the whole setup?

Damn, I want that!!

Yes, from more gas to less, but, meaning ur putting more oil to it which means richer mix and safer. Stick with 32:1 or 40:1 and rejet your carbs.