RUDEDAWG

Just mod your own, very easy to do, just go to cascadeinnovations.net and look for a pic. then do your own. Just dont touch the neutral nub. If you screw yours up, I have a good one of my 06 I will give you.

PM sent.

:biggrin:

........And your point is? :ermm:

I'm not much into bling, but I have to admit, that clutch cover looks bitchin!

I dont see anything wrong? :biggrin:

What a damn cheap ass!

I've got a crank off my 06 good shape with good rods/bearings I may also throw in std. pistons that I took out with the crank. Replaced them with a stroker set up. PM. me if interested.

I had to tap mine in, it took a little effort but I got it in. Remember to install it paralell to the crankshaft centerline and not paralell to the taper.

Yup, and solder a nipple on the outside of each bowl.....HMM..... :biggrin:

I wonder if anyone has thought of putting a big old fat hose between both carb bowls. Or am I the only one? Seems like that would easily increase the volume of both bowls. :smile:

Nice! that bike is identical to mine! I guarantee you if I had the dough I wouldn't hesitate to take it off your hands. :thumbsup:

Just take your gas cap and flip it over and you will see two little screws, remove them and take the bottom cover off and you will find two small ball bearings, take them both out and SAVE THEM. put everything back together and walla! you have a high flowing gas cap. Not recommended by the DOT.(department of transportation) as the fuel can splash out of the vent tube during a roll-over. Geez,I love redneck engineering!

I am using 5/16'' fuel line from my pingel to the carbs insted of 1/4", I had to use hose clamps of course. I also gutted my stock gas cap and those two mods really complimented the flow of the pingel. Friggen fuel pours out of the fuel lines now!

Is that you dragging on the vids. on hjr's website?

Who ever did the port job should tell you the optimum timing you should run and also the carb set up providing you just got it ported by a professional shop. Otherwise +4 timing is a safe margin for your set up and one 35mm carb will work well with a woods port which is a good low range port job, as long as you don't go drag racing.

6.7's are meant to be worked hard, that's what I do with mine everyday. I drag a 30' gooseneck behind me everyday and I have never had a problem with the dpf. filter unless I let it idle for a long time. When the dpf. warning status just happens to come on, well, I just get on it for 3 minutes or so and it dissappears.

I am not ashamed to say that I am a self admitted coors light nut hugger/swinger/cuddler/toilet praying sob. :biggrin:

Yamaha website says, 385 lbs. but you dont want to be maxed out or nearly maxed out all the time.

6.7litre? nice huh, I've got one just like it but not a mega cab.

Got one off my '06 nice shape, I may have the studs- I'll have to look. I have 8 brand new nuts and some used nuts, I dont think you need washers under the head nuts. Pm. me if interested.

I have rebuilt plenty of chevy big blocks and small blocks as well as ford v-8's. I have broken them all in the same way, drive it like your gonna drive it. On a two-stroke that has the capability of spinning 10000 rpm's+, I would think high rpm's at break-in would be taxing like a mo-fo on the rings before they get a chance to seat.

Bore jobs are cheap compared to half ass putting an engine together just to have to do it again! Good luck on your build.

It all depends on how much wear was on your cyls. before the hone. I would have them measured before I bought the pistons, just to be sure, I wouldn't go by what "I was told".

Well said brother, I always ask if they have any feedback like on other sites and/or e-bay before I send any one money, I have been lucky on this site. I've got 100% feed back on e-bay out of 5000+ transactions and I am VERY proud of that!