RUDEDAWG

Yeah, kev's work has great reviews on here. I might be in the market for a swinger after this and some suspension. The spending will probably never end!

Gonna send out my jugs to kevin tomorrow. I can't wait to see how it comes out! I am going to go with a 4 mill. longrod crank and a dune port. I am going to also upgrade my carbs to 33mm. pwk's. I originally had mx/tt ported jugs that I bought on e-bay but I toasted them suckers and they need re-sleeved. I hope to get 70 hp. out of kevins work, so lets see what happens!

Are these sold or what? I've got 3rd. dibs if these guys dont take em. Pm me.

What color are the rear fenders? Pay-pal?

Had the same problem as you I just ditched the clamps that came with the k&ns and used the stock clamps because they are narrower and clamp down on the right part of the carbs, just make sure there is no oil residue on the inside of the filters where they clamp on and no residue on the outside of the carb.

I've got some off my '06 good shape just maybe need paint from sitting on my garage floor, make me an offer.

I even went as far as putting my stock reeds back on and no change?

As far as side to side movement of the rods they were still in spec. according to the clymers manual. The motor has maybe 30 hrs. on it if that. Before I put the new ported jugs on, I was pushing it pretty hard up a steep hill and I heard a pop and smelled antifreeze for a split second. I already had all the parts sitting there for a new top end so I decided to install them after that episode. I also installed new o-rings on the cool head. Thanks for the replies!

Would the crank being out of phase cause this?

no tors and I really don't think it is detonating, my compression tester is a new one

sounds like a fire cracker going off every 5 or 10 pulses

running trick 101 factory parking brake still in tact

Whats up. My shee has been backfiring like crazy from the right side lately and I have searched and searched but to no avail. I've tried EVERYTHING! The only thing that I can think of thats causing the backfiring is maybe my crank slipped out of phase? It is not welded. Is there any easy ways to tell if the crank is out of phase without taking it out? My mods are in my sig, the bike is virtually new and has very low hrs. Man, I hope I didn,t ruin my shee by modding it, that would really suck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I........... cleaned carbs meticulously, no clogged anything new flywheel new exhaust o-rings and clamps leak down test held 9lbs. for 30 minutes new plugs gapped at 28 new plug wires and caps swapped wires-no change fresh top end 162 psi both cylinders tested coil tested stator new pipes so I don't think the silencer packing is bad new reeds only thing left is testing the crank! (I think) :ermm:

Are you set-up w/paypal? I'll take it if the valve doesn't leak. Pm. me.

It all depends on your elevation and fuel octane, Noss's website has a chart at the bottom of the page. If you still aren't sure just e-mail them and they will recommend the best domes for your particular setup.

WD-40 the hell out of the cables and let it drain out then oil the heck out of them,, that will certainly help cause WD-40 displaces moisture and also acts like a de-icer. my.02

Do you take food stamps? :biggrin: bump

Pm. me if you decide to sell your intake.

You didn't forget or loose the clutch rod or ball that goes from the adjustment lever to the clutch adjustment screw in the center of the clutch boss did you? :biggrin:

Yup, what ragun cajun said, I can get it on at first but, I always lay off the throttle when I start to hit the whoops (it sucks).It scares the hell out of me, call me a wuss but I am still alive! :biggrin:

Read my mods, EASY! on to the next sucka!

Wheres this bad boy located? I would love to buy this for my son if it ain't too far from me.

I am hoping that doing these mods will help with the mis-shifts between 1st. and 2nd. gear. I hate when that happens!

Thanks guys for the quick responses! Obviously the factory didn't put one in there when they built it, I looked for it high and low and still couldn't find the damn thing. :biggrin:

Whats up all, Today I was doing a shift pro and shift star mod on my bike and when putting the clutch basket back on I noticed there wasn't an o-ring installed behind it. The clymers manual shows one on page 156 it is the #17part. Is this o-ring really needed and for what purpose? I was wondering if I could just leave it off. Thanks!