THE358BANSH

If you take off everything before the first , and everything after the second it works well. On photobucket, if you copy and the link from the "IMG code" box under your picture, and then paste that here everything works quick and easy. And by the way, absolutely awesome quad! I could never buy one outright, so I decided to build one myself. Would you mind if I sent you a PM sometime?

http://photobucket.com/ <---Use this to host the pictures, and then link the IMG code in the post.

Here was my pride and joy a few years back in high school. 37"s, a hot small block, and a granny low four speed let it get pounded like free beer. I should have never gotten rid of it...

Mine! Let me know how you want to be paid...

http://www.duncanracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FB-S35S

Do agree! Here is some of my stash...

A full set of expansion pipes, stingers, and mufflers is $225 to have chromed by JL...

Roger, did you get my pm with the phone number?

Aaron, we went to the Fremont CWIRA race last year just to watch the non studded classes. They freakin' rock for not being picked! It was a good time, but damn cold...

Sold...

Back from the dead...

Fixed for ya'.

Actually that makes a ton more sense and I didn't even think about fuel consumption. Two strokes are horrible inefficient machines when they are not on the pipe. Some where in the neighborhood of burning an extra .2-.4 lb/hp per hour of fuel. That changes things quick when you only have about 20 pounds of fuel. BSFC is the best way to compare efficiency in any engine. Most four strokes are in the neighborhood of .6 lb/hp per hour and when they are getting beat go down to .37-.40 lb/hp per hour. Great thought!

Hey Cam, I built a bender that is similar to a JD squared unit a few years ago. Uses the same dies and everything, just with a few small mods to help with efficiency. It's got a nice stand for a 6 foot tall guy and bolts to the floor. Never been used and it's sitting in my garage currently. Let me know if you want it. I would cut you a smoking deal since you are the coolest guy I know. Hell, I might even be up for some trading. Let me know...

I recently ran across some information pertaining to some very successful, purpose built endurance style banshees in the past. The engines were stock stroke ported deals, meant for smooth transitions onto the pipe with decent low end. The quads were run with 18" rear tires. The first through fourth gear sets were OEM banshee with the ratios being 2.461, 1.812, 1.500, and 1.22. The last two gears were replaced with clusters from an RD350LC, with fifth being .962 and sixth being .888. The transmission ratios were ran with a 16/37 sprocket combination. Using those ratios and 9000 rpm on the engine side of things, we get the speed below for each gear. To the right of the max mph in each gear is the mph gained in each gear. 1 Gear MPH~29.5 29.5 2 Gear MPH~40.0 10.5 3 Gear MPH~48.4 8.4 4 Gear MPH~58.1 9.7 5 Gear MPH~75.5 17.4 6 Gear MPH~81.8 6.3 Using stock banshee trans ratios and the same engine rpm, we get the speed below for each gear. To the right of the max mph in each gear is the mph gained in each gear. 1 Gear MPH~29.5 29.5 2 Gear MPH~40.0 10.5 3 Gear MPH~48.4 8.4 4 Gear MPH~58.1 9.7 5 Gear MPH~69.5 11.4 6 Gear MPH~83.0 13.5 What do you think the reason was for the longer fifth gear? Maybe being able to just wring the motor out a bit more instead of a shift up only to have to shift down again? And second, what kind of snot do you think the motor was making to be able to pull 16/37 gearing? I think they might have been trying to kill some of the violence out of the engine when it was coming onto the pipe by putting more load on it. Discuss?

I called UPP the other day and talked to a tech guy. The inside diameter of their largest intake is 46mm and he said he thinks it would stretch 2mm max. Oh well, guess I either have to cut the throttle bodies in the lathe or search for a set that has a smaller outside diameter.

21 series covers 28-39pwk carbs...

I know they were built for the 38-41 PWK carbs which have a manifold side OD of 46mm. I guess I should have reiterated myself and said 40mm and larger Mikuni and 44mm and larger Lectrons which are 52mm on the manifold side and most commonly use the VM40-200K flange.

Those all use the VM36-200K intake boot and get stretched heavily to fit big carbs.

Does anyone know of a manufacturer that carries manifolds for 40mm and larger carbs on a stock sized reed cage? Or another option would be a billet style manifold that uses the VM40-200k style boots? Thanks a bunch! Evan

Best thing ever. It uses a watch battery and the life is claimed for 3000+ hours. It flashes between current engine temp and max temp, and every time it goes above 130 degrees the max temp is reset. Probably one of the best things I have spent money on to date. The upper radiator hose uses the 19mm unit by the way.

What is the shock shaft travel?

I have done a few sets, both in steel and aluminum. The biggest problem isn't getting the rings cut, but having both wheel lips cut off parallel to themselves and perpendicular to the axle centerline. The best thing that I have found to work well for both cutting the rings and the wheel lip is a rotary table on a mill. A competent machine shop could get the job done as well, but by the time you pay them it's almost the price of some wheels...

As mentioned, there is a difference between electrical and electronic Zilla. The Banshee CDI does change timing via RPM. The curve is 17 degrees up to 2000rpm, advancing to 22 degrees at 3500rpm, then retarding to 9 degrees at 10,000 rpm. When you put an adjustable plate on and put it at +4, you are only adding four degrees of advance to the numbers mentioned previously while the physical shape of the curve stays the same. To alter the shape of the curve, you use a different rating capacitor(s) and sometimes a different thermistor. Lots of interesting info being tossed around in this thread...

The six P's pertain to a project of this magnitude... Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance "Designing" a kit is going through the proper calculations and doing the research to prepare yourself for what is to come. Throwing a bunch of parts at something without a good game plan of how the necessities need to function is a good way to end up with a cobbled mess that functions like ass. Zilla, I won't provide a list for you. The links I provided a few weeks ago will tell you everything there is to know about EFI from design, to calculations, and all the way to installation of the planned components. You have everything at your finger tips to be well informed and successful, you just need to be a sponge and soak it up! Evan