THE358BANSH

I need the drive axle out of a trans. Would be awesome if it came with a sprocket, sprocket nut and washer. Doesn't matter if it has bearings or gears on it, lemme know what you got...

They are awesome, plain and simple! The coolest thing is the way the systems is built, there is zero bind. The upper and lower heims are mounted with the ball bore horizontal, so that there is no balljoint or kingpin to limit travel. Then the spindle is mounted to the heims using two tapered roller bearings for the most supple steering you will ever feel. Most of the setups I have seen use 250r geometry on the outer spindle along with the brakes. Unfortunately, the only way this setup will bolt onto a Banshee is if you have the Leagers frame to go with it...Evan

Pure sex right there...

I want to trade these for a start on a RZ conversion. Depending on what the other person has for parts and quality of said parts, it will either be a straight trade or trade plus cash if they were to have everything to do the swap...

I have a set of F.A.S.T. dune/play ported 4mm cylinders for trade. They are at 65.00mm now, and would need to go to the next size to be perfect. I can bore and hone them in my machine shop as part of the trade if you would like. I am looking to trade or do a trade plus cash for a set of RZ350 cylinders. Let me know what you have...Thanks

I hope I don't have nightmares tonight...

X2, got my seals off ebay from a vintage cycle shop in Nebraska. Buy 2 seals and a bearing just to be safe if there is a next time...Evan

Since we are having a good discussion on air versus sprung shocks, I'll chime in. Not bashing or anything just filling in some more for the other members, comments are in red with my thoughts also below. If you are comparing true bolt in shocks for a banshee, I would take the Elka. The offer them fully adjustable, compression/rebound/preload/triple rate sprung fully kitted out. The most optioned Float shock that bolts in a banshee is the "R" model, which is only a compression/single "spring" rate deal. I'm sure people are mixing and matching other Float models into the banshee, but I am not going to let them experiment with my money. I chose the Float Evol with DSC for a few reasons. First, I ride many different terrains and weather conditions. Trail/MX/Ice, I can set my ride height/roll resistance quickly/easily with the air pumps in less than 2 minutes. The other reason was the Dual Stage Compression valving. Wether it be high speed or low shock shaft speed, I can adjust for conditions. When it comes down to it, I love to fiddle and these Floats give me the most options and they are kinda like riding on air...<-----Kind of cheesy huh? Evan

If for some reason you still need to ream the spindles, the reamer is a 2" over 1' taper for Honda joints. Click on the link for my little write up with some pictures... Evan http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127498&st=0&p=1101731entry1101731

I just can't break down and buy a factory one. I am holding out for a black anodized Chariot Performance piece, but sadly none have came my way for a reasonable price yet. Evan

I can't complain so far. I really like the billet balljoint deal. Only thing I think I am going to change is the steering stem. I love the height, but going up also goes back. Probably going to move it an inch forward or so. That and I have to respring/revalve the rear Elka. We took the skidsteer out this weekend and built a little 33 foot table and it was smooth like butter...Evan

Proof that I do ride it...

Thanks for the tips. Ellison445 came through for me, thanks to everyone for the pms...

It would be awesome if the kicker didn't rattle, and if you have the caps I'd love to take those off your hands also...

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126061&st=0&gopid=1103428entry1103428

Wow I thought this was going to move quicker. New price is $250 shipped. Thanks

Next up was the LoneStar Spindle shafts I used a V-Block and a hammer to pound the old shaft out New shaft next to the old one and the spindle all sandblasted and cleaned up I smeared some grease on both the shaft and the spindle and used the press to drive it home Back together A couple random pictures of the ball joints and the completed spindle/hub assembly Disassembled Back together All in all I am really impressed with the ball joint. The lower is a 3/4"-16 billet steel version and the upper is the same size/thread just made of aluminum. They are fully rebuild-able if the time ever comes for about 12 dollars a joint. How did I do? Evan

So I am currently in the process of building some cromoly LT +3+1 arms and I finally had to make a decision on what type of joint to use. I liked the sealed portion of the ball joint, and the strength of the heim. I ended up with a set of Janssen Motorsports billet ball joints which are the best of both worlds. Unfortunately when I ran down to get them, they only were stocking the Honda taper joint. I purchased them anyways, and figured I would do a write up on how to ream spindles since there so many questions. There aren't too many tools involved, I listed mine below... Rigid 1/2" drive cordless drill 2" over 1' tapered reamer Honda taper joint of your choice Some 3/4" masking tape Press(spindle shaft install only) As you can see in the first pic, the honda taper stud does not fully seat in the spindle. The reamer will pilot off the hole in the spindle currently. Just take your first one slow and steady while checking the fit of the joint multiple times as not to ream too far. When determining the depth of the ream, you need to pay attention to the threaded portion of the stud. I reamed until there was approximately a 1/32"-1/16" step from the end of the taper to the face of the spindle where the nut rests. This is an important step as to still allow the taper to seat in the spindle for a proper fit. After you determine the correct depth, use some masking tape wrapped around the ream to mark your depth for the remaining holes as seen above. Had to continue everything below 'cuz of HQ rules...

Yamaha factory manual says M10x1.25 pitch also. This handy dandy little chart is taken from the .PDF Banshee manual... Evan

SOLD... Thanks Scott(Harbinger of Death)

Preferably anodized black. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Evan http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-3-piece-Ultra-Light-Stator-Cover-Black-Anodized_W0QQitemZ280370488414QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414762245e

No payment after waiting almost a week. Back for sale for $550...Thanks

Just a little heads up for you. Make sure your reservoirs are going to clear the brace in the upper control arms at full bump. Also check the Evol chamber to tie rod clearance. I just got done putting my 19.5" Float X Evols on and noticed these two issues. Whats the length on the Nytro shock? Evan

Are there any signs of detonation on the plug itself? Evan

Sold pending payment from Oreilys...