THE358BANSH

The bearing is fine guys. I think I may have found the issue though after measuring everything. On the portion of the shaft that pilots into the upper case half, the old shaft measures .3120" whereas the new impeller measures .3155". That extra .003" is just enough to cause a binding condition between the new shaft and case. That makes all the sense in the world seeing as the clutch cover was a pain to get pulled off. As of now I figure when I checked gear engagement by trying to turn the impeller, the gears were not lined up but the impeller didn't turn because of the shaft interference. Then when I bolted it down not lined up, the gear cracked and it got finished of when the engine was started. At least that is what I'm hoping...Evan

I don't remember there being contact on the cover from the impeller, but I will check again in the morning to be sure. I guess the thing that confuses me is that the gear has survived for how many years, I change a few things and now I have two junk gears. I looked at both the impellers side by side, and nothing sticks out as being drastically different. I will measure them both tomorrow just to make sure my eyes don't deceive me. I just ordered an aluminum gear from Mull. It should be here Wednesday at the latest so I should have some time to look over everything really well. Evan

I saw those this morning. One will be on order Monday and hopefully be here Tuesday....

The bearing feels well used, but it is definitely not seized.

So, last time we went riding I noticed some water in my trans when the day was done. I knew it was coming by how grooved the impeller shaft was last time it went together, but I didn't have the stuff to fix it then. I ordered a bunch of stuff on Wednesday from Jerry at Chariot and he was super cool about making sure it got to me by Friday. Tore into it late Friday, measured the clutch, installed pancake bearing, and installed new high flow impeller and cover. I got everything back together late, filled it with fluids and started it to check for leaks. Everything was decent so I took it for a quick blast in the field and didn't get a quarter mile before the radiator cap purged like it was overheating. I checked the gauge with my cell and holy shit it was at 224! I pushed it back to the shop and let it cool down for a bit before draining the coolant. I refilled it with cooler water, and started it again. The motor was idling, but the temp gauge said it was getting cooler the longer it ran so I knew something was up. Drained the water out again and quick pulled the pump cover off. Kicked her over and sure as shit, the pump doesn't spin. Tore back into the cover only to find half the gear on the impeller shaft and the other half at the bottom of the case. I brushed it off as me being to antsy and not paying attention when I bolted the cover on, figuring the gear wasn't lined up and when I tapped the cover on with my hand it must have cracked it. I called around today and found a gear and a new seal through Nieskes, Chevybanshee91, and HarbingerOfDeath. 200 mile round trip later and I am feeling good with all the parts I need and on a Saturday to boot. I pulled the old seal out and replace it, reinstall the bearing, and slip the impeller in. The cross pin goes in easy, gear on, then washer, then circlip. I was a bit smarter this time, as I left the pump cover off so I could turn the pump while installing the clutch cover to mate the gears, which I did and everything then bolted together fine. Installed kicker and used it to verify the pump turned and then proceeded with finishing up with the pump cover and fluids. I started the engine, let temp get up to a hundred or so and then went for my same ride as before. Needless to say, in almost the exact same spot the bitch puked and after lighting the gauge it was over 215. Brought it back, pulled the pump cover to find the impeller not turning again. Disassemble and find my second gear in two rides to be in multiple pieces. What gives? Evan

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127498&st=0&p=1101731&hl=+spindle%20+reaming&fromsearch=1entry1101731

Make sure the trailer door is tall enough. My friends dad just bought Robby Gordon 4 seat 800 RZR and someone has to sit on the rear package tray to squat the suspension enough to clear the door. It does have slightly larger tires also, so keep that in mind if you plan to upgrade in the future. Evan

I didn't have the cap gutted, so that was the first thing done and it didn't change anything. After that, I addressed the pingle by testing its gravity flow in comparison to the free flow of the fuel pump. Both of which tested good, but I decided to change the pingle to a different setup anyways and it didn't do squat. So here it was midnight, and I decided to go for one more romp before packing up to go riding the next morning. Pushed it out of the shop, strapped on the helmet, and then tried to start it. It wouldn't fire, felt just like the tether was out. Pushed it back in and checked some stuff out to find that the fuel pump wasn't turning on. I could feel the fuel pump relay clicking on and off as it should so I went to the pump connection and tested for voltage there and it was fine. I manually put power to the pump while it was still mounted, and it didn't run. Pulled the pump out and disassembled the pump housing to get at the pump. I checked it again while putting power to it and now the damn thing turns on. The best I can figure is the armature has a bad spot on it and the pump would randomly turn off and on, and therefore causing the drop in pressure. I didn't want to put a bum pump back in to go riding in a few hours so I rigged a Walbro 255lph pump I had laying around. It pulls way too much current and flows way to much fuel, but it let me go riding. The trails went awesome, we got lots of time on the seat. Spent a few hours in the play area and then headed out to the trails. All in all we put on we put on close to 50 miles, and I only ran out of gas once because of my own dumbass fault. All in all, an good success I thought. I have a few things to do before the next ride. My clutch was feeling really jerky on the release, so I checked the oil to find out my impeller that had a small groove on the shaft that must be a big one now because of the milky oil. Second on the list is a replacement fuel pump that flows less and draws less current. I have found a pump that was used on the injected Cannondales and Victory motorcycles. It flows slightly more fuel than I need, but like the LTR pump i had it only draws 3 amps which is awesome. Evan

Things are going well, just too busy with the shop and racing every weekend so the quad hasn't ha a ton of attention during the summer. None of that is any different than any other year though, like I expected it to change? I have had it on a few little day trips here and there. Everything is going okay, just one main issue right now. I have had a a random low end bog, but it was really intermittent. After doing some investigating, it is related to either fuel pressure, or lack of delivery causing a low pressure dip. If you remember, I blocked off one side of my pingle, and ran the other side to the fuel pump inlet. I am not one hundred percent yet, but gut feeling is that the pingle is a restriction on the inlet of the pump depending on fuel flow requirements. Fortunately, racing is starting to wind down around here so I will be able to devote some time to her in the next week or so to get this sorted out. Lates, Evan

I need a stock rear spring, it doesn't need to be pretty or a certain color. Let me know shipped to 54165, thanks!

I managed to bring it back in one piece! The day went extremely smooth, I was expecting for it to leave me stranded at least once. Temps were in the high 70s and low 80's, nice and sunny. Motor ran awesome for the short amount of riding and tuning time that I had on it previously. Got there early and did some light riding to warm it up and then took a few logs. I mainly worked on the area when it was on the pipe to start, then concentrated on the light throttle and cruise. Every little bit I would pull the plugs for a look and then make a change accordingly. The oxygen sensor worked flawlessly the entire day, it told me everything I wanted to see and everything I didn't! As of now, I have no regrets about the entire fuel injection swap. The electrical system using the ElectroSport 250w deal and twin regulator/rectifiers is also working well. I left the ignition on the night before while testing some things, and the battery was almost dead at 11.9 volts when we left. With all the starting and stopping while tuning and relaxing, the battery regained to a 12.6 volt state which is just short of full charge. All in all I am super excited to go out again in two weeks. I have two more spots in the tune I want to address, one being a rich portion when it's coming onto the pipe and the second being a lean area under hard deceleration. I know it's hard to see, but she's on there behind all the 4-strokes... Later, Evan

D-day is in a few hours boys and girls. I got the replacement petals installed and took it for a little ride here tonight and all feels well. That means tomorrow we will hit Dusty Trails atv park in Suring, Wi for hopefully a full day of beating the piss out of the quad. Wish me luck!

A few yeah. I have been playing with the tune for a few rides now and it's coming along great. A few weeks ago we had some awesome weather so I took it for a beating without the computer. Ran awesome for about 15 minutes or so, then idling around the driveway it lost the right hole. I limped it back to the shop and was pissed so I went back to work. After a few days of it sitting there, I decided to go back after it. Started it and the right hole would fire intermediately. I pulled the plugs and they looked fine, but I replaced them anyways to no avail. I swapped the plug wires and coil wires to rule out the coil being junk, still acted the same. Compression check came in at 175L/172R. I put everything back together and ran it again in the shop. Sometimes the right cylinder would fire, sometimes not. It rev'd fine when the right hole would hit, and then barely idle a few seconds later. I pulled the filters and started it again. Without the filters when I would crack the throttle, there was a pronounced fuel/air vapor that would come out of the throttle body on the right but not the left. I got a long screwdriver to move the CV slide down on the left hole and opened the throttle to see everything fine. On the right cylinder I opened the throttle blade to see I was missing the top reed petal from my VF3s. I figured all the time beating on them with them being a few years old weakened them enough and when I was putting around it just had enough and broke. That has been the highlight of what has gone on lately. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to purchase a set of replacement petals because I am getting the racecar ready for the upcoming season which starts next week, so that has taken priority. I figure in the next week or so I'll get back on it after I get some rest from the mad thrash. I figured I'd toss up a picture for all the horsepower junkies on here...Evan

Small correction needed about an earlier post. The wiring diagram above was drawn late and I was tired and in the process messed up where the floating grounds were terminated. The picture below has been corrected...Sorry guys, and thanks WFO

So...I had all good intentions of getting a new video for all you people tonight. Got the camera and suction cupped it to the helmet, warmed the quad up, hit the button and went for a five or so minute ride. I came back and pulled into the shop, reached up to hit the button to stop recording only to find I no longer had a camera on top of my helmet! Forty-five minutes later, I find the camera wedged in a snow bank a half mile down the road from the driveway. I just checked the video, but when it fell off it corrupted the data so no video for you tonight. I'll try tomorrow or Sunday to get another little update. Evan

Here's mine. It's lined with .25" thick high density foam to help with some abrasion resistance. Everything seems to work well so far...

Pretty sure the thread is m14x1.25 and the reach is .75" on the tester to double check. Is the tank on? I know with my SnapOn tester, it's a pain to thread it in with the tank bolted down...

I built an oil manometer for about 5 dollars to balance my lectrons and throttle bodies now. Using some atf for the measuring fluid worked fine. I would not recommend using water because of its low density. People have said the manometer is almost 50 times more sensitive by using oil instead of mercury. Don't know if it's true, but it works well.

It's the cover for the hole in the case for the shift drum in the trans. It is also used as the neutral safety switch on the RZ350 stuff, but I am not for sure if the Banshee uses it or not...Evan

And Rocky Mountain backs up the warranty too! Had a new one here in less than a week...

Isn't Phillips up by Tomahawk? That's damn near fuggin' Canada!

Well, here is the diagram. At a minimum this is what is needed to be done to use the 250w ElectroSport stator in a DC system. It's really not that complicated, just two separate systems until after the pair of reg/rec when they join into one. I did not include wire sizes or fuses, mainly because where stuff is mounted will determine all of that. I know some people like to run a relay, in this case two, on the yellow lighting output wire as a charging relay of sorts. Different strokes for different folks, just use some common sense when doing it and it will probably turn out fine. On to the next order of business. I have been making great progress with the tune in the last two nights. I only have one issue right now with an intermittent low end bog, but I think I know what I need to do to get rid of it. Pictures below are from my last rip outside tonight. New plugs, 1-6 gears wot, 13.0 AFR +-2 tenths in the left hole through the entire run, cutting the ignition at the end. Before I continue any farther, I am going to either take a degree of timing out of the left hole or add another to the right to true the holes up. I haven't really decided which to do yet, but I am leaning towards adding one to the right hole. Right now the engine runs really well up to 10200 in each gear. Using some math, that comes out to just under 80 mph with my fat ass and 18" tires. This thing plain shits and gets! It runs hard all over, and as soon as I get the bottom cleaned up it'll be awesome... Evan

ProCom and ElectroSport are the same company, just different divisions. I have a 250w unit converted to DC and have had no issues with it with my small amount of run time.

Most of the time for doing any tubing/exhaust work my setup goes like so. Practice makes perfect as they say. And BTW Cam, thanks for the "official" project title... 1/16" Gas lens #7 cup 1/16" 2% Thoriated tungsten .035" Filler wire, alloy dependent on base material Backpurged with 100% Argon I ended up buying another pump since this jagoff is just jerking my chain. I hate people with a passion. I got the new pump installed on Saturday, and started to retune being as I have more volume and pressure now. I made a few logs yesterday, and a couple more tonight. Making progress every time it goes out, it keeps getting cleaner and more crisp. I have gotten a few PMs about the Electrosport 250w stator with dual lighting outputs, and converting it to DC use. I was planning on doodling a wiring diagram to show how everything was wired. If you guys would like, I will get on it and post up a picture... Lates, Evan

No electronics, just what was mentioned in the first post...