THE358BANSH

The buildup I was referring to was more the black residue. It looks as though there isn't much temp in the strap to keep it clean and therefore looks like burned oil residue on it. The percentage of the ring is just an indicator of cylinder temp, some motors like more and some less. To say it needs to be tuned to 50% is a huge blanket statement. Best thing to do would be to warm it up and put two hits on fresh plugs and pull them out. We need a good shot looking into the plug to read fuel mixture, and a good side shot of the strap/electrode to check the correct heat range and advance. Evan

PM sent!

Looks pretty safe with only a 50% burn on the plating. How did the plug look after a pass or two? There looks to be some nasty build up on the ground strap, so I would be looking at heat range of the plug and/or spark advance. As far as jetting goes, if the heat range on the plug is correct you will gain power leaning it out until the cadmium is burned off 75-90% of the ring. Leaning it out after that and getting the burn into the threads on the body is the difference between good tune and hot rod tune. The power gains are not huge in between but the heat created is substantial so be careful. Run it rich at idle and the throttle response will be great, idling lean not so much.

I had contemplated the dirt bike radiator, but I was feeling lazy and didn't feel like scouting something out and then having to make it fit only to not know for sure if it would work well. As for the cavitation, I have the big chariot extended pump with an aluminum gear and I figured since the RZ350 came stock with a thermostat, the setup couldn't be too bad for it? I got the thermostat in earlier this week and had a chance to install it. It is off a 660 Raptor and comes with a 160* thermostat stock. When the thermostat is closed while the engine is warming up, the coolant is restricted by the bypass hole in the thermostat itself and the bleed vent in the head. This allows the coolant to circulate slowly to build temperature, but not completely stopping flow and causing hot spots. I drilled and tapped the housing itself for the TTO temp sensor, and eventually I would like to use the other port for the EFI water temp sensor. I put the housing in the upper radiator hose where the TTO was originally spliced. After filling up with coolant and warming it up, man does it help the engine get temp quicker. I would say it cut the warm up time down 30-50%. After taking it for a spin in 13* degree weather it would barely make enough temp to open the thermostat. I ended up blocking off the entire radiator and going for a ride with a utility knife. With the cardboard covering 100% of the surface it went to 210*. I trimmed it back an inch and went for a other ride which resulted in 200*. Off came another inch which dropped the temp another 10*. Currently the top four inches of the radiator is open and the motor runs at 170-180* beating the crap out of it. While cruising around it drops down to 160-165* and the thermostat regulates it there at the lowest. Not too bad for a $15 modification. This should help out tons for all the guys riding in winter... Evan

It's awesome, I wouldn't ride again without one. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148213

Let me know what your PayPal address is and I will shoot it over...

Mine broke once, most people said it was from not kicking quick enough. I replaced it with a used stock one and it's going strong still. I still kick like a puss, but my engine bangs off way quicker now.

It would not really benefit the engine in summer. Once the thermostat is open, the system acts just like stock except for the small amount of restriction from the housing itself. You could remove it in summer, but I doubt it would make a difference. I personally can tell a difference in the way my stuff runs at 130-150 versus 100 degrees. Two strokes need consistent temperature to function. Unfortunately in winter it is a bitch to build the temp, and even harder to hold it at one temperature. The thermostat should help the engine warm up quicker before riding, and also maintain temperature when cold air is flowing over the radiator by closing ever so slightly.

The ProX use a 1/2" female heim with just a high misalignment spacer. The heim is reduced down to a 3/8" bolt, kind of a scary way of doing it with no taper though. I looked at them and considered them for about ten minutes, then went elsewhere.

Awesome! I just looked at those and it would work great. I wasn't tied to using a bypass style, that is only what I could find for universal deals. After doing some research on the Raptor thermostat, it opens at 160 degrees and uses 19mm hoses just like the Banshee. I will have to do some adapting for the temp sender, bu that is no big deal. I bought a housing with thermostat complete with hoses just now for $14 off FleaBay. It should be here mid next week. 30-40 degrees around here is sweatshirt and jeans weather. Most of our winter riding is from 0-20 degrees, testicles up in the stomach type stuff. Next weeks highs are in the teens which will work great to test out the new thermostat...

The RZ had a thermostat in the head, I think they open at 185 and close at 150. I was thinking of something like the unit from Guhl Motors. They do a bunch of alcohol micro sprint fuel injection conversions where temperature consistency is huge. They don't list a price on the site so I will give them a ring tomorrow.

I have been running my stuff in colder weather here lately with a temperature gauge from TrailTech. When the ambient temperature is in the 15-20 degree range the engine will only go over 110 when really beating on it. During cruise conditions I am lucky to see triple digit coolant temps. I am contemplating doing an inline thermostat, which generally will hold the engine around 130 degrees. Anyone else have any ideas? It's funny that we spend all this money on good water pumps and radiators for the summer only to have it bite us in the ass for winter...

Expect to spend 150-175 for a set of quality heims and the tapered kingpins. The stock banshee tie rods are 10mm I think, but you will not find a metric kingpin adapter. 99% of the adapters are set up for a 7/16" heim with two being left hand and two being right hand. I just picked up a set for myself here recently, other than being a bit more expensive they are the nicest tie rods known to mankind. I have a bunch of pictures in the link below... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148446&st=75

Sold...

Wow, I don't quite know what to say? It is nice that you would come down off your pedestal of awesomeness to speak with us peons. 1. Cost is not an object, but value is... Last time I checked, you listed yourself as the the CEO of WeaponX Performance, and that you were branching off with a subsidiary company called Takai racing. So is M Rakuin the owner of both these companies, or just the name of the "Super coil" on the website? 2. Please explain to me how a single spark plug is fired in "reverse polarity", when both high tension towers are tied to the same secondary windings in a two tower coil? How are your coils going to optimize the ground electrode on one cylinder and not the other? That's not even including the possible differences in ground strap design from manufacturer to manufacturer. Like mentioned before, the benefit of individual coils shines when the amount of dwell in a wasted spark setup is to short to get full saturation of the coil for the next ignition event. When that happens, you now install two coils with separate drivers so the dwell time is effectively doubled to get full saturation of the coil. How does two single tower coils outperform a twin tower single coil, if they are both being triggered from the same source? As far as seeing a race engine, there are plenty running damn good and setting records in both the powersports and automotive industry. 3. I agree that a dyno is a tool and too often people get hung up on numbers. That being said, a dyno is still real world testing device and will show differences that might, or might not be backed up on the race track. Your research and development is not being absorbed, it is passed on through the $550 price tag which as you stated is the difference between Takai and WeaponX. Who currently uses you products in a strenuous environment? I'm sure you probably cant say because of non disclosure agreements and us here at BHQ don't need to be privy to that information, but why we should take your word for it? I don't know, I guess I am just a skeptic. Maybe I don't understand what you mean because the translation software from Japanese to English doesn't have the latest update? Take care and have a Merry Christmas! Evan

Screw him! Sell them to me instead right now? He needs to spend money on his truck instead...

Liar, LS motors don't make enough power to break rear ends!

First off you can't balance anything on a lathe. Secondly, if the rotor is warped and you try to cut it square it is going to ring extremely bad. Third, please don't use a parting tool to try and do that, it is sketchy as hell...

Sold...

I know this is kind of a weird question, but do you know what the inside diameter of the hole the goes over the flywheel is? Depending on the size, I may be interested...

Whether you are driving a single two tower coil in wasted spark, or two single tower coils in wasted spark I don't believe there to be much gain other than the secondary output of the "better" coil being higher. If the engineer is taking about the amount of time to charge to the coil to full saturation(dwell), they will be the same amount of time in Milliseconds. If you were to drive the coils separate there might be something to be had with a longer dwell, but I am grasping for straws on that. By all means, it's cool to see something a bit different though. I hope it proves me wrong!

I bought this and never ended up using it. It's brand new, never even installed on a machine. $70 shipped, any questions feel free to PM me...

Dont bother with a die, it can do more damage than good. Pick up a thread file for Imperial and Metric and you will never be let down... http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/thread-file.jpg http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/metric-thread-file.jpg http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/correct-fit-thread-file.jpg

You are correct Erik. I love absolutely everything about these machines(except for the fuel tanks), as they are the very best prepped and rideable examples of our machines.

Blake buddy, ask and you shall receive! Pictures of Camerons LSR Outlaw setup...