rubberneck

I get all my race fuel at Paul Oil in Oakdale cali. Not sure where you are at but if you are anywhere near there, they are great to deal with.

Agreed, i guess it just depends on how much a ruined trip will cost you. For me anymore, i only get to the sand a few times a year. the closest place is 5 hours and where i usually go is 9 hours away. To go that far and lose a crank on the first fucking day sucks (been there done that) By the time i pay for fuel to get there take time off etc it just isnt worth the gamble. If you ride local and have the time, gamble it. We all know there are tons of em bone stock many years old still going strong

ive had 3 stock motors (pipes reeds etc, but stock heads) separate cranks on me. All the bikes were used when i go them, but i will never own a banshee without first splitting the cases and welding the crank. Its just not worth a ruined trip for a relatively inexpensive and easy job. I say weld it no matter what you are going to do, then forget it. Its a perfect time to go in and upgrade all the little things while you have the side cover off anyway. Weld the crank, put in a modded shift star, check out the idler gear bushing, billet basket and billet water pump. then put it all back together and forget about it.

x 2 , just bought 55 gallon drum of sunocco 112 supreme yesterday, walked in said load it, and swiped my card. In and out in 5 min. However i did notice that on the label it says legal for use in offroad vehicles only. But it also said legal for use in California for competition use only. I bet soon enough they will have us signing affadavits that we will only be using it on a track and not govt land. I would think meth would not have this problem. Hell its alcohol, its a green fuel LOL

I was thinking that but damn if not

holy shit it says it went for 730 bucks

Got the motor in and it runs hard. Cant get it to idle well cause i need smaller pilots but my lectrons should be here by end of week so im not buying any more jets. Decided to coat the pegs and water pump to match frame. Still want to coat a ton of stuff but will have to wait untill after my trip.

sounds like the problem is a short circuit between the handlebars and the seat

That is true hillarious, i was simply refering to the fact that they arent stamping their ugly ass name on them anymore. You are correct they are not hand built they are stamped for manufacture

NIce find, i love that show, but must have missed that episode.

Im with jbooker on this one.. I tried a twist throttle .....ONCE. Sucked balls. Its different than being on a bike. If you like it cool, but im telling you guys buy either a terry cable or my preference the chariot thumb throttles and put in some easy springs, no more sore thumbs.

i believe the new ones arent stamped. I just bought a set from cascade last week and there is no stamping on them whatsoever. Badass chrome to boot

Good choice, tim is a great guy, i bought a ton of used parts from him and they were better than described, so then i ended buying an entire chromoly drag front end and steering stem from him. His shit looks great and if you are into chrome, he has a great chromer. Not to mention you will get your stuff fast unlike from ASR. It took, me almost a month to get my ASR arms and 2 months for the swinger. Ass clowns for sure

Fuck those clowns i hate them. Their arms are fine. I have a set. the heims are cheap chinese and wear pretty quick, but honestly most on the market are the same. My biggest problem with them is their customer service. If you have a problem they are shitty, and they dont know dick about banshees. I had a problem with a swing arm from them and it took months to get straightened out. At that time fireball racing made their swingers so i ended up just dealing with them direct. If it were me id look for a-arms with balljoints at the spindle end rather than heims. I would check with stellar who is a site sponsor. Tim is a great guy to deal with and it wont happen, but if for some reason there were a problem i guarantee he will get it taken care of.

looks good sheerider, nothing wrong with simple colors. Actually, i did a set of cylinders for my brother in S&S wrinkle flat black and they look great. I think it would look killer to do the whole motor in that color with some stainless and polish accents. Tough as nails to boot. Simple but clean and really easy to clean up Where do you buy your powder? I have been getting everything at powder buy the pound or precision powder supply here in cali.

Is it ported? If not i dont think you need bigger carbs. Maybe some 28 pwks. I have a FAST dune ported 350 running 185psi compression and it runs excellent with stock carbs. I put the motor together for my brother as a x-mass present. Jeff recomended i go to 33 pwks, but after buying new crank, pistons, porting, billet basket new clutch and everything else i wasnt going to buy the carbs for him too LOL. . After riding it, he didnt bother to buy them either as he loves how it runs. IMHO if its not ported, i would do that first and then buy carbs

Well i purchased one of the silicone plug kits, so thats what i use to mask all the holes in the case. the only ones i didnt have a plug big enough for were the seal for the trans and the crank. so i used old seals that i cleaned really well then used the high temp masking tape to wrap around them. I then bolted the case together using a couple of nuts on the main bearing studs on the bottom. I wanted coating in the stator area for corrosion resistance, so what i did is after spraying the powder i just wiped off the area where the stator sits so it would stay bear metal. As for the clutch side, i just rested the case on a flat sheet of plywood on the clutch side as i sprayed it so no powder got on the gasket surface or inside. Worked pretty good. Had a little overspray on 1 part and i just used a razor blade to scrape it off while the cases were still pretty warm. maskiing the cylinder area is the most time consuming cause you have to work around the studs. I tried to take them out but they were in there too tight and didnt want to risk breaking one. I just took my time and masked the whole area and trimmed it up with a razor blade.

I just saw that the other day, i think im going to wait though cause so far i have had pretty decent luck working on my technique. i figure if i get pretty good at it then when i have the cash to upgrade it will only make me better

Good tip, I had heard that on a couple of PC boards, so i did a prebake at 400 degrees for about a half an hour and unless you were there to see it you would not believe how much oil pooled up under the cases. Any used aluminum i have been prebaking just to make sure it doesnt have oil or gas out on me so far so good.

Im not positive, but for some reason i think i remember hearing that it requires some welding. Chek with Mull egnineering. Why the stock head? Just wanting the stealth look? I believe that CP is working on a stock looking head that accepts domes like a cool head for the wompus cylinders which have stock head bolt pattern. If you arent in a hurry that may be an option

Yeah one thing i figured out today doing some other stuff ( a little late for the cases but its all a learning curve right) I found that if i keep my hopper a lot fuller, i can turn the air feed down and then it seems to put out a denser but softer cloud. I seem to get much more uniform coverage quicker. My machine has adjustable kv up to 100 but it seemed on the case as i turned it up it got a little worse in the areas on the bottom.. I will have to do another set to experiment.

HAHAH fucker. Actually im leaving for dumont in 25 days, so i need to get my ass in gear. Got the silencers pc/d and end caps polished today Check out the cascade chrome on these babies. If you are looking for pipes and want the bling, get them from cascade. These are the nicest chromed pipes i have seen.

Got the cases done the other day, now i just need some time off so i can get it all together. Color is flash pearl metallic (think black with pearl clear coat) Damn, the cases were a bear. The bottom is a nightmare to try and get even coverage on. If anybody out there has done it before, what are the tricks. I sprayed it twice and wasnt happy with the results so blew the powder off each time and finally on the 3rd try it was decent, so i baked it. I then pulled it out of the oven just as it started to flow out and then shot the bottom again. that helped a lot but i didnt get too aggressive cause i didnt want runs. There are some light spots in the webbing, but hell its on the bottom of the bike nobody is going to see that untill i crash and then i wont care. LOL

Never heard of 42mm keihns. The other thing is the alky. you are going to run through fuel like a mad man. Banshees suck the fuel when on gas. In order to switch back to gas from alky, you will need new carbs once converted, keihns cant go back.

Well unfortunately, it looks like there may be a pattern here. Hopefully this gets resolved for you guys. http://forums.atvdragracers.com/topic/9685-370r-bought-from-tripple-ds/page__pid__82191#entry82191