sleeper06

normally you check compression and ring gap and clearances to see if you need a top end not riding it .You completely set yourself up tho,offer no info on bike then write a bunch of dings dings down like we are mind readers

go with a site sponsor and if your looking for a jet ski,they make a combo ski/quad but a banshee not so much

The cables on those things suck bro

340s are way rich ,290 main,stock pilot ,1 turn out on the brass screw(angled back of carb),take needles out of slide put clip on #4 from blunt end

yes bump it up and the pilot

290 is way fat with a lid,do you still have the snorkel?if not 240 main,with snorkel try240 but might need 230

Im changing two bikes over to alky rite now,a stock cyl 4mil,4mill cub,both bike will be run in the 1/4,both bikes are my personal bikes.Do i need a pump?Not looking to hurt anything on the big end.

As stated by larry float level is HUGE,its like sucking through a straw in a full glass or half in/out.First order is check float hieght,Second is put the 340s back in there thats not your problem,27.5 pilot,needle 4th clip.You have done too many changes too not see any results especially since i have tuned many t-5 setups on ported bikes your in the ball park.I would start looking at electrical issues,Ohm out your plug caps,check pickup gap,check harness for nicks and check ground for continuity,pm me if you need to talk it thriugh

the d series is a richer needle,if you get them to work you might find you need a smaller main jet,all my jetting is done based off cel needle, but i have found larger diameter needles needing smaller mains

It def sounds lean,Is that coolant dumping?Def pressure test it,or close those air screw to a 1/2 turn out or all the way.it doesnt sound like the cyl are hitting rite.It pays to get a sync tool i know they look rite but your looking at cable play adjustment but not vacuum being pulled through

a 4mil with a 2-1 will be a low end monster,im all for going against the grain,I just built a ss shee with a traill minded port with boost ports,-procircits and a 2-1.The bike is an absolute blast to ride and does pretty well racing against bigger set-ups.You could build a firebreathing trail monster,wheelie machine doen rite

i have ridden both 28s and 33s on same bike,i noticed almost no diffrence on bottom but mid to top is very noticable,if you plan on an aggressive trail port you wont besorry.Im just sayin its pennies diffrence between the two,go bigger rite away, the 33 pwk is a great carb for low end but can support whatever move you make

20cc is a no go on pump fuel,need 22s

120-130 depending on elev

.100over

IMO if you mix race n pump your leaving alot up to chance and being a chemist in the yard,gas sucks lately

make up fake bill of sale with vin on it and motor vehicle will give you temp regi till it clears not stolen

same crank all three times or diffrent cranks,and what mods an jetting were you running

4th from blunt end 2nd from pionty

27.5 pilot,280-290mains,needle 4th clip,start at 1-1/2 out on the screws

33 ipwk is my vote

do one at a time bowls are carb specific,stockers are not the easiest to get out but easy to fix,carb sync tool from fast racing and watch video sticky in forum,youll be fine if your machanically inclined

your fine,it depends if they were interested in that project because i seen a bike three weeks ago that changed my mind about trinity but it was done years ago,but your compression is fine

I took cut off wheel an chopped it,if you hold slide in hand an hit throttle you should see it

whoever told you they measureed crank play through the carbs is lying or has some seroius tooling that i dont have yet and need