sleeper06

I allways use assembly lube on forks and synthetic oil on tranny bearings and gears,When you star the bike after cleaning a tranny in solvent hold the clutch in with the bike in first gear for one minute to lube 5th gear pinion,I usually slide gears off rack lube shaft and bearing I have seen too many people fuck there trannies up

I have had some hard ones also,patience and like big red said double check bolts,dead blow hammer

I have a r6 shock out of a street bike ohlins shock pretty cool and i got it for a steal on flea bay

drag porting stockers is a lot of work be prepared to pay,it takes time and time is money ,Fast racing gets my vote i havnt lined up against another stock cyl bike that comes close to mine in a drag race

What do you need,my advise is check comp first if its down under 110ish,pop the cylinders off and send them to be checked,if you were closer i would check them for you,if the person checking them knows shees then they will know if it need pistons of just rings

Jeff happens to be a good friend of mine and i cant say enouph about him,he has helped me out in many ways.He is one of the only builders that trust with my stuff if im too busy to do it

Ill tell you all my boys smoke but def not what hes smoking,dude crack kills

I would assume its had a rebuild being that old but who knows,def dont trust that guy ,this is the reason i started doing my own work,in 2002 i didnt know shit about porting/boring i brought my cylinders to a local guy he tells me 800 for a port and hone because my shit was new,so not knowing anybetter i did it,I decided to pay a visit because he was taking forever with it and when i get there to ask him what type of porting im getting he says all you need to know is i take metal out .Mind you hes drinking heavily and there is two huge rails of coke on the bench.So i said to myself if this idiot can do it so can I

You will notice a huge diffrence up top over those pipes you have,300 mains no port but if you port it you wont be sorry

richen that needle back up an give it a whirl,it might take that stumble out,also ohm the caps out its a must they are bad on everybike i work oln

hes got pods on there

I have his draglite arms(sick)its like running paper clips on the front and hella lite

Jeff is very knowledgable and can set you up for whatever but get in touch b4 he starts grinding

#1 stay with a 32:1 mixture ,the amount of the amount of power gained is not worth it #2 fattys like big pilots so keep the 27.5 for sure but i have used 30s a few times #3 those are stock needles make them all the way rich #4 300 mains #5check your plug caps on a multymeter they should read 3-7.2kohm cap to cap

damn guys ease it down a notch,i dont think his jetting is that far off,mopar 1 your a knowledgable guy and im sure you build some nice shit ,I just happen to tune alot of shees,I have a rolodex full of set-ups and final jetting numbers from over the years,at sea level he should be about 240-250 mains with the lid stock port,at his elevation its real close,i think its a blow by on tired rings or like you said possibly ignition

I dropped almost 5 tenths with the overide and felt like my hp doubled,talk about pullin gs

The easiest way to 90hp is bolt on a cub,im running a 4mil stock cyl ,i run on the street so i opted for keeping the stock cyl,but cheap it was not,it will cost you just as much both ways.If you have 90hp, plan on drag pipes, overide or cut tranny,and some biiger carbs to feed the beast,my lil 4mil runs down bigger bike quite often

More than not its a rich pilot circiut with those conditions,have you checked spark when it wont stat,can you start it without choke

volcrano,your rite,at your elevation with the lid 230-240,dont listen to them.I have tuned 100s of bikes and never had anything with a lid come in above 260s on a serius port maybe but your all stock

Stellar machine an performance

that little white peice is just pressed in litley,pop out with screw driver,clear it put it back in with threebond 1211

The two thing i would be interested in are somewhat spoken for but let me know if something falls through

def got the sound rite name wrong

needle postion,richen it up all the way first,if nothing lean it out all the way.I do big jumps first to see if im heading in the rite direction then fine tune.IMO a trail shifted bike should run a rich needle setting,when your letting off to shift the rich clip postion holds the needle out of the pocket longer allowing the cylinder to recoupe fuel before you let it have it again,just a thought

you need to find mikuni people ,most around here run pwks,I just converted to alky on two bikes but with 39pwks,there is a lil involved to ensure fuel flow like drilling the carb body out,pilot circiut