bigblockbanshee

Well I just ordered 2 kits for Stacman450 and myself for $40/ea from Vito's. They had the adapter, filter, and dirtbag (their fancy name for an Outerwear) in the clearance section for $40 until on-hand stock runs out. I'll make sure and update this thread when they arrive so we can get an idea of the fit and function of them since they were so relatively cheap. Honestly I don't see how they can be any different than an actual Pro Flow, K&N, and Outerwear but I guess we'll see. If the quality of the Vito's stuff is the same or even near that of the brand name parts then you can't beat that price with a stick. Chris

Is there a specific part number for the PIAA bulbs or is it just H6M? This sounds like it's right up my alley...

Ok I've got one more question about this kit. Why do they use the stock pilots but go up to a 270+ main?

Another thing is that it's unlikely that you have a standard crank with 115mm long rods. I'm not saying it's impossible because there's at least one on here that I know of running that setup. I'm just saying that it's alot more likely to have a stroker crank with a long rod than it is a stock stroke crank with a long rod. Entirely possible though.

The conflict here is that you said in your first post that it was a big bore, but that he says it's a stroker. With the given cc of 402 it can't be both big bore and stroker. The purpose of the longer rod is to keep the piston at top dead center longer and indirectly take some of the stress off of the skirts of the piston and effectively the walls of the cylinders. This also helps broaden the power delivery to an extent. The longer rod really doesn't have anything to do with compression as you'd have to use a different piston with a smaller compression height to compensate for the longer rod. If you used, for example, a piston for a standard 110mm rod on a crank with a 115mm rod (long rod) then you'd end up sticking out of the jug by 5mm. The compression height and rod length have to match to be able to be equal or as close to equal as the deck height of the jugs when they are torqued to the cases. The head is the only piece that dictates the compression in this case. And boring out is necessary because it's pretty much just standard procedure but moreso because you can't just hone the cylinders and expect them to be new again. Even if you honed them nice and neat what you can't see is the warpage or "eggshape" effect that comes from the stress of the components with the heat involved. This is why you must bore and hone at the same time, especially if you plan on keeping this 'shee. The number one thing you don't wanna do is go through this motor and have to live with the fact that you skimped on something that could be very important or vital to the life of your engine. And by the way a 4mill stroker is exactly that, 4mm over standard stroke of 54mm, it would now be 58mm. Stroking one of these engines brings on a whole new feel to an already strong package and porting only capitalizes on it.

I'm not disputing the suspension argument but what good is a hopped up suspension if the motor doesn't run? Compression is low and he has to do a top end rebuild at the very least. On top of that he's got a big bore motor which isn't optimal for trail riding but rather more high-speed riding. Personally I'd try to find some 64mm-based jugs, get rid of the big bore jugs, and try to find a 4mill stroker crank to bring the power back down into an operable range rather than being WFO all the time with a big bore setup. We're only talking $700 here and that doesn't go far when you're talking suspension IMO. The best scenario would be to do big bore AND stroker and add some suspension goodies but that's alot of fundage.

So what exactly is optimal for stock carbs? Just curious as I'm in the same boat with the T5s and stockers.

So did you build the engine or are you going off of what the previous owner told you? Point being, if you've got a big bore engine with a stock stroke crank then you're already under the gun with the type of riding that you plan on. You really need a 4mill stroker instead of the big bore, or possibly both together if you could afford to. You're looking for more torque here, not horsepower. The stock head is perfectly fine, matter of fact it would probably be recommended. And when they mill (shave) the head they rechamber it for the big bore, which is likely already done to it anyway. If it's low on compression then it will likely need to be bored, not just honed. To be honest I can't tell you what all needs to be done without seeing the motor first hand. You just need to go over things and see what all needs to be done so you can get a package deal with Herr Jugs. So with $700 we could come up with a good plan here and a really good package could easily be attained. What are the numbers on the crank? Are you sure it's not stroked too?

On a side note, since you're doing a rebuild anyway why don't you just tear it down and see what the pistons and crank/rods look like? If they're anything other than stock they should have a number stamped in the top of the piston and on the sides of the rods/crank. The numbers on the piston will tell the bore size and may tell the stroke also along with the numbers on the crank and/or rods. Number 513 is a Wiseco stock stroke number but if it has a different brand or number someone else may know what it is. There's only so many combinations you can build with certain piston number.

Just send Kevin the jugs, crank (if it's stock), and head so you can have him do everything and buy the piston kit from him as well so you can get a package deal on all of the machine work, bore/hone, porting, true/weld crank, mill head, everything. You didn't specify what kind of head was on it so if it's stock send it and have it shaved to the certain octane of fuel you want to run, or he'll tell you what cc domes to run if it's an interchangeable dome style head. I noticed in the other thread you didn't know if it was a stock crank or not so if it is stock send it and have it trued and welded. Don't mess with the timing except for what he tells you to set it on and leave it alone afterwards. Stay with the factory 2-carb system to keep costs down and because they work fine but get a TORS removal kit. You should probably figure out what carbs and especially what kind of pipes you're gonna be running before he ports the jugs because he'll port the exhaust to match the inlet of the pipe and match the power range of the pipe also with different porting methods/sizes. To make a long story short just spend the money up front if you have it available and have Herr Jugs do everything that they possibly can to make sure it's done correctly. Not to say that you can't do it correctly but it's nice to have the professional reputation behind the work and remember you're not just buying the work/service, you're buying a whole tuning package. He'll tell you timing, jetting, everything...

Stacman450 just sent his stuff out to Kevin at Herr Jugs and for one it was an amazing deal for the price, and especially the quality of work and turnaround time so good decision on that. Ok enough nut-swinging... I see you're in Maine so it all depends on how your atmospheric conditions would affect the choice of carbs but personally if I were gonna get all of that work done AND had to switch carbs anyway I'd get, at the very least, some 28s. Stock carbs can only do so much you know. As for where to set the timing plate and other specs etc., Kevin will tell you what parts to buy to complete the certain package that you're looking for. Pipes would more than likely be Pro Circuits. On the reeds, I discussed this subject with AKheathen and he pretty much told me that the Chariot pieces were the ones to get. All of this after I'd mentioned stock cages/reeds, stock or ported cages/aftermarket reeds, Duncan Pyramids, Boyesen Rad Valves and VF3s. I didn't even know about the Chariot reeds until he showed me but those will be my next purchase I believe. We discussed alot of different scenarios but what was decided was that for the smooth power delivery and greater flow the Chariots were the reeds of choice in my situation and riding conditions. Another thing I've read about the VF3s, as well as any other carbon fiber petal, is that they aren't as durable as a fiberglass petal. I'd stick with a dual-stage petal personally. You'll get alot of different opinions on this I'm sure so just take everything with a grain of salt. But again I'd run these ideas by Kevin and see what he thinks. The one thing you don't wanna do is be mixing other people's opinions/suggestions with your machinist and end up with a mismatched combination. I don't like VF3s by the way...

It doesn't currently kink if I put a small loop in it but there's an actual minimum radius for any given size of line/hose that could damage the line if you surpass that specified amount. Even if it doesn't kink it could still be bent too sharply causing damage and I'm trying to avoid that. I was just wondering if someone knew what that number was.

So thinking ahead a little bit I ordered a +4 rear brake line for my stock swinger in case I decide to get a +4 extended swinger in the future. Just running it straight back I've got quite a bit of an arc of left over line sticking up toward the underside of the plastic. What I'm wanting to know is what is the minimum radius of the line so I could possibly loop it around but not kink or damage it? Like I stated in the title I'm pretty sure it's -4 line but not 100% on that. It just looks very similar in size to the solenoid lines on some of my old nitrous kits. Chris

Still needing...

I bought a set of near perfect headlights about a year ago or more before I knew what kind of connector to look for. They were supposed to be from an '06 but they have the rectangle connector on them. I'm looking for someone that may want to adapt some late-model headlights to their older-style harness and needs the older, rectangular connectors. I need the triangle ones please. Thanks, Chris.

Anybody got anything on em? https://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=326&cat=186&page=1

I'm putting my money on jetting being too lean.

Ya I saw that but when I read that the stock cover would fit by removing the tape from the inside I opted to get only the impeller and impeller cover only to find that even the billet covers that I've tried aren't working either. So I realize now that I should've gotten the whole kit from Chariot. I'll let you know soon if I want one or not. I've already got too much money tied up in billet covers and need to sell some before I buy anything else.

Ya it was a Chariot kit from eBay. The last billet cover I tried was 7/8 and it still wouldn't work. That's what my concern was mainly.

Fair enough. I'll have to look one up. Although it's not something you'd use frequently unless you were a builder I'd say it would be handy to have around.

A stud installer/remover? Why not just use two nuts jammed together to twist the studs down or take them out? That's how I did mine, I even indexed them so they're all the same length sticking out of the jugs except for the front two, they were about 4 threads longer in the stud kit I had.

How deep are the water pump covers? I'm not talking about the actual impeller cover, just the piece that attaches to the outside with 3 bolts. I purchased a ultra high flow impeller kit and my stock cover wouldn't fit even with taking the heat-reflective tape out nor would 2 aftermarket billet pieces. It's gotta be at least 1" deep IMO to fit over the impeller cover and that's kinda hard to find.

It should also be noted that it's extremely important to tighten them in steps. This meaning go around them once at 10-12 ft-lb, again at 15-17, then a final time at 18-20 ft-lb. This is a must or you risk warping the head and/or pulling a stud out of a jug, both of which will be a real PITA to fix. Good luck.

It goes in the same sequence as a stock head if you have one. I'm trying to find one so I can post a pic. And the torque specs are something like 18-20 ft-lb. I'm gonna go make 100% certain though...