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bigblockbanshee

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Everything posted by bigblockbanshee

  1. So I've got too much ring end gap. I guess my outlook is that I can't do anything about it as of now. The jugs are bored and the pistons are in. I'm just hoping to get at least one good season of riding out of it before I can afford to buy new stuff. So given the fact that I have 22cc domes what is the least I could run and still get away with 93 octane? It will be advanced 4 degrees too. Again, sorry for the ignorance, I'm just really new to this stuff.
  2. Ok so I'm trying to recoup some money to try and get my ride done and here's what I've got left over so far. All prices are plus shipping and 3% PayPal fees, except for the boost bottles which I've already listed in another thread so I don't wanna mess up the pricing on those. I'll work with you on anything that I can. I will only ship to the Contiguous 48 United States as well. If you have any questions you can PM me on here or for faster response email me at R1Rider31@hotmail.com. Now to the parts... The rear carrier came on my '97 when I bought it although I don't know what year it is from because my frame was red and obviously this is silver, not that it would make a difference as I'm pretty sure they're all the same. As you can see this one has been tapped and had a grease fitting installed. Needs new seals and bearings too. $30 Rear Carrier One is brand new and the other came on my 'shee when I bought it. Looking for $15 for the new one and $8 for the used one. Both of these prices are SHIPPED. Boost Bottles Headlights are off of my '97. The grilles are a bit tattered, one of the glasses is cracked, one is missing an adjustment screw, harnesses are good and intact on both. Someone may be able to clean them up and use them. $15 Headlights Just another piece that came with a spare motor I got with my 'shee. Nothing at all wrong with it, just don't need it. $15 Kickstart Mechanism Same as above, came with the spare motor that I bought and didn't need it. Also comes with pressure plate bolts/screws, not pictured. $40 Clutch Basket, Flywheel, Pressure Plate These came on my '97 and like a fool I tried to modify the lower eyelet on one of them and probably ruined it. The other shock is good as far as I can tell but if not maybe someone could use the springs on another set of shocks. $15 Front Shocks/Springs This crank came out of my 'shee and as you can see one rod is severely bent and as it sits the crank cannot be used. If someone wanted to put a new rod and new bearings throughout it though it would be a perfect candidate for a fresh build. I just don't have the money to do so. $15 Crank This cover came off of the spare motor that I bought and as you can tell it has some paint worn off and has some rubbing on top of it from the kickstarter. Can be easily cleaned up and used again with a little TLC. $15 Clutch Cover with Water Pump Again, came with spare motor that I bought with my 'shee. Probably needs rebuilt unless you don't care for the shake and rattle like they do. $10 Kickstarter Once again, came with spare motor. It is completely stock, maybe someone could do something with it. $5 Stator/Timing Plate The A-Arms are a different issue. I'm only selling these IF, and only IF, I can find a nice set of standard travel extended arms to put on my '97. They have brand new caps and bushings. The caps I may end up keeping depending on what I can find on the extended arms. I had them repainted black along with my frame with PPG K36 and DCC9300 and then knocked down the shine and painted over it with satin black. As you can see they are currently installed but aren't tight and can easily be removed. If I do find another set I'll let these go for $150. Just wanted to get these out in the open and see what kind of interest I could get on them. Stock A-Arms
  3. Not sure which I'd rather have, the 700xx or your avatar! Free bumpity.
  4. Can you send pics of A-Arms to r1rider31@hotmail.com please? Thanks, Chris.
  5. Ugh, sadly yes it's a fresh bore. It's all a brand new top end and essentially a complete rebuild that I've been in the process of doing the past 4 years. I had to find a new set of cylinders as mine were way too worn so when I got these they were stock bore and I took them to a local reputable shop and had them bore and hone them for me. That was over two years ago. Just recently I really started to get serious about getting this thing going and found out my bore size problems. I mean, what can I do? All I can hope for is that it lasts me until I can afford to buy another top end kit or more.
  6. I have a crossover for $15 shipped. Let me know.
  7. Went to check my ring end gaps the other night and came up with one at .016 and the other at .018 and I decided to file the lesser one and make it match the .018 gap. My piston-wall clearance is at the high end of spec too so I'm assuming the jugs were bored too big. My question is with the 22cc domes that came with the cool head I bought a few years back, will I have decent compression or should I try to find some smaller domes? I'm at about 1800' altitude also.
  8. That is an amazing looking ride you have there. Thanks for sharing!
  9. Awesome, thanks all. I think I'm gonna go ahead with my original plan and try it out. Now let's see if we can get this thing on the trail!
  10. That's exactly what I was wondering. So it's normally installer error or cylinders/head out of square then? Guess I'm just being paranoid but it's taken me 4 years to finally get this thing where it is now. That being said I'm just not in any position to take a chance on it possibly leaking and scrapping another engine but then again I didn't see any reason for it to.
  11. I'm almost done building my engine and ready to set in the frame but I have some concerns about the head. First off I have a cool head made by Top Notch Design that I bought off of another member on here a few years back and I'm just now getting ready to bolt it on. As far as I can tell it's brand new and I have a new o-ring kit to go with it. It is identical to the Pro-Design style that so many people have complaints of leaking. My question is how susceptible are they to leaking? If the cylinders are flat and flush, the head is not warped, and it is torqued in the correct sequence to the correct specs, what is left to fail? This engine was the victim of the typical right cylinder leakage as so many of them have and it trashed a good crank, piston, and the head when it was together before. I have already bought a stock head that will be available to me should I change my mind and want to use it but as I said I just don't wanna take a chance on it if the cool heads are so easy to leak. This motor won't have anything special done to it, just a set of T5s and Wiseco slugs. I'm sure there is a thread or threads somewhere to answer my question so if there is instead of flaming me to hell just point me in the right direction please.
  12. Sweet looking KTM you got there, bet it's loads of fun.
  13. Can you send pix of radiator to R1Rider31@hotmail.com please?
  14. As cheap as Yamabond and ThreeBond are why would you use anything aside from what's suggested? Bonding cases is not at all something I'd wanna be experimenting with or running the risk of not doing correctly and completely.
  15. I'm calling dibs on the radiator pending the pix of it, just to get my name in there...
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