bigblockbanshee

The only things I've ever heard about them were that they had a bad run of them a good while back that the bottom wasn't machined perfectly flat or something like that. Other than that it's just like any other cool head out there. Just put new o-rings in it, torque it to the correct spec and sequence, and re-torque it after a few heat cycles. That last part is a must for any head, factory or aftermarket.

Lol we were just messing with ya man. The guy was just misinformed or plain ignorant lol. It's definitely "Top Notch" but I've heard that they aren't so top notch if you get my drift...

I've got one but mine says Top Notch, they must have mis-spelled mine...

The only things I would opine with is no matter if a shop is next door to your house, they can still mess it up badly. And it is absolutely necessary to keep all of your machine work with one machinist and make sure that person knows what the crap they're doing. Mixing machine work is a nightmare and only asking for trouble. Pay the extra money and ship it to a reputable builder/site sponsor like Herr Jugs. My brother-in-law just got his jugs back with a fresh bore and hardcore MX port job and let me tell you man they look amazing. Kevin does some killer work and the best thing is that it's consistent and every part and dimension matches from one cylinder to the other. He also had about a week and a half turn around time from shipping it to him to receiving it back. When you ship go with USPS but make sure you package it tight and very well cushioned and you'll have no problems at all. USPS has become one of the faster methods of shipping lately IMO. As far as the bore itself, it may look silky smooth and you may even still see the hone marks (not likely but just as an example) but what you can't see is cylinder warpage. That's the kind of stuff that will ruin any engine quickly and you can only check it/find it by using a bore gauge and checking several areas in the bore. Never ever run without an air filter either for future reference.

No problem at all, just passing on the info!

Ya those were the ones I was mentioning for $27 each plus shipping. I just couldn't see the need in paying that price plus shipping plus the wait for them to be delivered so I decided to try to find something else.

I did a short search and couldn't come up with anything so maybe this will assist someone. I just had to replace all 4 ball joints on a set of A-arms that I bought. Once the arms were delivered to me I noticed that the ball joints looked exactly like a tie rod end from a light duty car/truck. So when my previous parts-pro experience kicked in I got out the calipers and catalogs and found that the ball joints that I had were 99% identical to a tie rod end from a '89-97 Geo Tracker 2 or 4 wheel drive. Autozone sells them for $20 each and they were in stock compared to the cheapest of $27 each that I could find which would've also had about $15 shipping added on not to mention the down time. Just thought I'd pass the info along in case no one had noticed before, I hardly believe I'm the first one. The Moog part number, ES3045RL, should cross over to any other brand that you may prefer but they are considerably more expensive. Although if you've used Moog before you know that you get what you pay for. I chose Duralast from Autozone because they were relatively cheap and as I said earlier they were in stock. I'm more of a Moog kind of guy but when the Duralast pieces were $14 cheaper each and still came with a lifetime warranty I couldn't pass it up. The Duralast pieces don't have a grease fitting but with the removal of a small "hog ring" around the pivot stud you can easily get a grease needle into the boot to re-lube them. All a grease fitting does IMO is provide something else hanging down low to the ground for a rock or stick to break or rip out and then you've got grease flying out everywhere and possibly contaminants getting into the body around the pivot stud, you don't want that. Hope this can help someone. Chris P.S.- Don't go into the store telling them that it's for an ATV or they WILL void your warranty and yes they do have the right to do so. Use common sense and go in and ask for a tie rod end for a '90-something Geo Tracker and you'll get full warranty to use if anything ever goes wrong.

Yet another great sale from this guy. He is one of the best sellers I've ever dealt with and has nearly unbeatable prices. His communication and willingness to make the transaction right for the buyer is second to none. There should be more sellers like this that way we wouldn't have to worry about deals going bad on our forum that we've had so many of here lately. Thanks for the A-arms, tie rods, brake lines, and clutch actuator parts Tony. Chris P.S.- Parts even showed up a day early, lightning fast shipping.

Sorry I just saw that you quoted my post. I actually haven't started mine yet, it's about 90% done and sitting in the frame. I was just speaking from what I noticed after I assembled it so I have no idea if it runs good or not.

Honestly, I remember reading it somewhere but all I can find right now are the papers for my idle kit and TORS kit that I bought from them which leads me to believe that I didn't get any papers with the kit. I purchased all of this separately as the pipes and jetting kit were already on the bike when I bought it. I hadn't yet torn into the carbs when I ordered my new jetting kit from them so now I have two. That being said I'm not sure I would've gotten any papers unless I ordered it all together but I could be wrong.

Lol well you've got a point there. I would drive the 'vette TO the lake but not in it lol. Ok so say I run the with the snorkel off then. How bout those little 1" airbox vents? I got 12 of them with my foam filter but I'd rather get another lid that's in rough/ok condition to hack up rather than cutting up my original one. And where do these individual mods leave me with the jetting such as the removal of the snorkel and/or lid? I know that by the time I remove one or both I'll probably be pushing the limits of the Perfect Kit won't I?

Well there will be a fair amount of mud and water both on any given day. I plan to try to steer clear of it but where I ride conditions can change in mere minutes and I may not be able to avoid getting in water or mud if they do change. I'd just rather be prepared and not have to worry about it than not. Is that kinda one of the first things that you throw out in the yard when you get a Banshee lol?

First and foremost I did a search and didn't come up with anything on one of their "Perfect Jetting Kits". Second, my motor isn't even together yet so I'm open to any and all suggestions and opinions. Ok now to get down to business... I'm getting close to cranking my new motor over and I want to have the jetting as close as can be, obviously, but I have some questions on the Toomey Perfect Jetting Kits. I have done a Google search and have read a lot of really good things about the kits but I have also read about a lot of people running their own jetting specs. So what I have is your typical .50mm-over unported, stock-stroke engine with 22cc domes (for now), Rad Valves with dual-stage Power Reeds, T-5s, Toomey foam air filter with airbox lid AND snorkel on, and stock 26mm carbs. I'm not really concerned about the performance of it, hence the lid and snorkel. I'm sure it will have gobs of power as it is. So where do begin? I will be starting it for the first time in a few weeks depending on when my other parts arrive and I can get it together, so it will probably be anywhere from 20-40 degrees outside. As you probably know the Toomey kits don't come with a whole lot, just needles and 2 sets of main jets (270s and 280s). If you need any additional info feel free to ask as I'm on here quite a bit lately so I can reply ASAP. Also my elevation at home here is about 1800 but where I'll be riding is anywhere from 1500-3500. So again, where do I start?

PMUB

Stock needles with airbox lid on...

So we've ended up putting the stock cages back in to do the leakdown test. We made gaskets to put between the boots and the cage flange and they still leaked terribly. Has anyone had any problems with the VF3 flanges warping and not sealing? You can actually see how bad they're warped without putting a straightedge and feeler gauge on them. Personally I think they've either been ran on a motor that's been melted down or they've been torqued down way too much. Anyone?

Dang nice looking ride there. GLWS and free bump...

What's your zip code?

I had the same problem with the ports not lining up with my 513s but everything else was ok. This was my first build so I just assumed that's how they were originally...

Someone make an offer on this stuff

He's running the factory 26mm intakes with the "guides" or "fins" cut off of them at the back. What's happening is the boots only press against the plastic insert themselves. The leakage we're experiencing is coming from around the outside of the plastic piece where it snaps in and there's nothing there to seal it apparently. That's why we were wondering if there was a special gasket that needed to be used or what the deal was. As you can tell we've never used these before, hence the newb questions...

Bump again...

Thanks for the advice fellas. I found out they were M3x0.5, 6mm long. I told the hardware stores that and even a Fastenal store we have locally and they nearly freaked out. They said it'd be at least a week and the shipping would be much more than the screws would cost. I searched around the garage and ended up taking 8 screws out of my TORS boxes and cutting them a little. Same screw as what the factory cages have but only about 4 threads longer. They definitely aren't as sleek-looking as the standard ones that came from Boyesen but they get the job done.

Bump

Anyone know? I need all 8.