bigblockbanshee

Is there a specific reason for that? I plan on running Klotz Flex Drive 75/90 and just wanna make sure it's a wise choice before I pour it in. I mean, I understand filtering it every once in a while but is there a specific reason for doing it every other ride?

I'm guessing not only did the guy not have a clue but he was reading the timing plate wrong and could've possibly meant to put it at +5 instead of -5. At any rate advancing the timing and raising the compression, if the head has been milled, would effectively cause a very noticeable increase in heat. And also as was stated above if you're jetted too lean it will without a doubt overheat and likely to the point that it butts ring ends together and busts a ring groove causing the dome to separate from the skirt of the piston thus greatly thinning your wallet/bank account. Sounds like a great time to do a full rebuild before it pukes so you can make 100% certain of what's in the motor and the specs on it.

I just ordered the Chariot Ultra High Flow impeller/cover kit for mine. I'm excited to see how good it and the Engine Ice work to keep this thing cool because I'll be doing a lot of slow/moderately fast woods riding and overheating is something I don't wanna have to worry about. Just a word to the wise though, on the Chariot auction page it says that the Ultra High Flow impeller cover will fit under the factory plastic cover if you take the heat-reflective tape off but the cover doesn't sit flat on the clutch cover so I'm gonna have to come up with an aftermarket cover. Just thought I'd throw that in there in case you'd considered the Chariot Ultra High Flow kit. They do however offer a kit that comes with one for $138 I think. As for a fan, I've noticed that the fans on my '07 R1 are only about 5/8" thick so they may work and they are extremely powerful. Just my 2 cents...

Do you know if the smooth water pump cover will fit over a Chariot Ulta High Flow impeller cover? They advertise that the stock cover will fit if you remove the heat-reflective tape on the inside of the cover but it doesn't so I'm needing another.

Water pump cover and gasket sold! BUMP

Thursday afternoon BUMP

Anyone?

Thanks!

Also have a brand new billet easy drain water pump cover. This is the same one you can find on ebay for $20. I got excited when I saw it and didn't even read and realize it didn't come with a gasket. I'm ordering a water pump repair kit so I will throw in the new gasket with this billet cover for a total of $25 shipped. It is brand new and comes with gasket and all fasteners.

Case saver FTW. Doesn't matter what all you have done to it when you're chain decides to take a hike.

Same washers as a banjo fitting in a brake line uses, just have to find the correct size.

I built mine a few nights ago. At first I got the wrong size pipes but luckily I had some at home that I could put in to correct it and it worked out better because I cut it to the length to where I now just push it all the way in until it bottoms out and tighten the boot clamp. I used pretty much the same stuff as everyone else does but I took a fuel pressure gauge from a nitrous kit that I had together once and it worked perfectly once installed. The only complaint I had was having to spend $7 on a PVC primer/glue kit for a measly 4 swipes of each. Anyhow my new piece ended up losing only 1 pound after 6 minutes. I was very satisfied to say the least. That is acceptable, right lol?

Here is the condition of the parts straight from the other thread in case there was any misunderstanding... The rear carrier came on my '97 when I bought it although I don't know what year it is from because my frame was red and obviously this is silver, not that it would make a difference as I'm pretty sure they're all the same. As you can see this one has been tapped and had a grease fitting installed. Needs new seals and bearings too. $30 The shocks came on my '97 and like a fool I tried to modify the lower eyelet on one of them and probably ruined it. The other shock is good as far as I can tell but if not maybe someone could use the springs on another set of shocks. $15 This crank came out of my 'shee and as you can see one rod is severely bent and as it sits the crank cannot be used. If someone wanted to put a new rod and new bearings throughout it though it would be a perfect candidate for a fresh build. I just don't have the money to do so. $15 The clutch cover came off of the spare motor that I bought and as you can tell it has some paint worn off and has some rubbing on top of it from the kickstarter. Can be easily cleaned up and used again with a little TLC. $15 The kicker came with the spare motor that I bought with my 'shee. Probably needs rebuilt unless you don't care for the shake and rattle like they do. $10 If there's anything else you need to know about just ask. It should be pretty self-explanatory.

^^^sent you a PM^^^

My old thread got a little strung out so here's what I have left from it. All prices are +3% Paypal fees AND shipping unless we make a deal that states otherwise. I am at 38572 so if you wanna get a decent estimate on shipping then feel free to do so. So here goes... Rear Bearing Carrier- $30 Used Boost Bottle- $8 New Boost Bottle- $15 Kickstart Mechanism- $15 Front Shocks/Springs- $15 Crank- $15 Clutch Cover- $15 Kickstarter- $10 Balance Tube- $10 MSR Dominator Levers- $25

Received the domes yesterday and I'm very impressed. They were exactly as described and considering they came from Guam they were shipped extremely fast. A+++++++ seller!!!

TTMFT

Pyramids SOLD!

Lol I didn't think it was that hard but just the fact that I've never attempted anything like this has got me a little rattled. So what kind of staples or staple gun do you use? The instructions I got with the cover said to reuse the staples that you pull out but mine were so rusty they crumbled. And how do you get the staples to go through that hard plastic?

That's it... I bought a seat cover about 4 years ago when I was all gung ho about this build the first time and the old seat cover was barely hanging on anyway so I ripped it off with intentions of putting the new one on. Well it's taken me this long and it's still not on yet.

You don't know how lucky you are for just having only that damage. May as well yank it out and go through the whole motor if you want it to last you a long time. You know, do everything at once while you've got it out of the frame so you don't have to worry about it. BTW not sure what kind of manual you have but do not go to your dealer for a Clymer. I got mine on eBay for around $20 shipped. My local dealer charges $39.95 plus tax.

Well white is what I'm after but I'd like to see pics first as stated. Good luck with the camera lol.

Well pending the problems with the plastics and headlight connectors, which aren't bad but are still obstacles, I'm almost done. I have to tighten all of the suspension, lube everything, run the chain, run the wiring, run front and rear brakes, attach foot pegs/rests, and get the seat recovered. Getting the seat done is probably my biggest obstacle right now because I'm not good with that stuff. The mechanical I can handle, it's the patience of putting on a new seat cover that is intimidating me at the moment. But that can wait til last. You don't have to have a seat to start the thing and see if everything functions correctly.

What color are the plastics? You mentioned the color of the tank plastic but I didn't see a color on the front and rear plastics. Chris