4stroker

thanks for your help man. im not sure if the plates are thicker, i forgot to measure them before installation. i have read that many on here have used them before though hence why i got them. there are the same amount of fibres as stock setup. im 90% certain that pulling in my clutch and revving the bike frequently while moving is what killed the old components, as i was doing that alot on a long, partial throttle ride. however before it welded up if you revved the bike in gear with the clutch in it would move forward a fair bit, so it obviously wasnt adjusted properly. i will play around it with is some more tonight, hopefully get this sorted. thanks again, mark.

cool pics man i guess if you were gonna go to the trouble of reconfiguring the barrels for a larger intake etc.. you might as well upgrade properly with some cubs or cheetahs! there is some interesting reading on the rzrd500 forums where guys over there convert the rotary disc induction cylinders on the rz500s to case reed induction. anyone else got any cool two stroke sites with interesting info like this?

i just had to replace the clutch actuator, rod, ball and adjuster on my bansh, because they all welded together on a ride after putting in a new clutch pack. i have adjusted the clutch by following the procedure outlined below by "wesw": remove teh cable off the arm by the cases, with teh clutch cover off and what not, have someone or yourself push the arm to wear the arrows line up on the case and the arm. then tighten the tension screw up till its tight with the arrows lined up. then lock the nut tight against the screw. then put the cable back on and adjust free play. when i put my cable back on the arm, i cant get any free play at the clutch lever end(on the bars) the adjuster on the lever is wound all the way in. when i line the arrows up on the case, how tight do i do up the adjuster? just until it touches the ball? do i have no freeplay in the cable because i am using FZR1000 fibres? (stock steels) or is it because i am using a motion pro "terminator" clutch cable, and/or it is routed wrong? or is it because i am a dumb ass? thanks, mark.

i just thought someone might know some rough figures for an average 7mil TREX... for example, 10000rpm? would it rev as high as 10?

i spoke to 3 different engine builders today (in australia) who have all done it before, and they all say that its not ideal, but it can be done. mine is together and all torqued down, and everything still spins freely etc, so i am running with it.. will let you know how i go!

im just trying to work out what top speed he might be able to pull i thought that with the longer stroke, and bigger/heavier pistons, that it might not be physcially able to rev as high as say a drag ported 350cc banshee, but he would obviously have alot more power/torque to pull much taller gearing... would you agree?

a friend of mine has a 7mil trex motor ported by rossier engineering. it has 39mm pwms and trinity stage 4 pipes, vortex ignition what do you all think it would rev to?

yeah my uncle mentioned that to me tonight as i was putting it together... its together now, do you think it will be ok?

got the jetting pretty much sorted on the weekend. before i even tried the EEK needles, i put my needles (CGL) on the last groove, so they were in the highest position. this was way too rich for any throttle position above 1/4. i came right down in mainjet size to 170 (from 210) and still couldnt get it up onto the main jet. so i dropped the needle one position, and the bike ran like a champion, there was an ever so slightly rich stumble around 3/4, but past that it just ripped and damn near pulled my arms off! i did a bunch of full throttle plug chops and went up in mainjet size to 182, the plugs look good, maybe slightly lean, but the bike shop didnt have any 185s or bigger so they have ordered a bunch for me and i will need them id say. thanks for your help sredish!

thanks mate! my rz motor was running super hard on the weekend, we got the jetting dialled in pretty sweet (slightly rich through the mid but its good enough for now). put a tank of fuel through it on saturday with no trouble at all before the clutch welded itself (too much revving with cluch pulled in on a long ride) it absolutley tears aparts my mates highly modded raptor 700 and yfz450, and also a mates ported banshee, so im more than happy! anyone got some bottom end assembly tips for me? i need to get this fixed before the weekend! thanks, mark

ok so heres the deal, the clutch rod, ball and adjuster all welded themselves together on the weekend, and the actuator end of the clutch rod is broken off inside the case and wont come out. SO i have to split the cases to fix this, and while i have them apart, i want to reassemble it with the RZ top case that i have, because the transfers are matched to the RZ barrels im using.... so will the rz top case bolt straight up to the banshee bottom? also is this just a straight forward procedure? (disregarding the fact im changing cases?) do i need to do anything else before putting it back together? as long as i dont upset any of the transmission or anything i should be fine yeah? just pull it apart, get the broken bit out, clean up the top case, and bolt it back on with some yamabond between the cases? thanks in advance for any advice/input! mark.

no thanks! im actually hunting around for a complete bike or two... would be fun to ride with the banshee hit legally on the road!

ok.... so what do you check? grooves on the outer basket and wear on your pressue plate/s? if there is slight grooving on your outerbasket you can carefully file them all smooth. im not sure how grooved is too grooved, does anyone know this spec and how to measure it? if your outer pressure plate is worn (the outer ring will be dead smooth when worn, as opposed to being able to feel and see machine marks in it) just replace it, they are cheap ($15?) if your inner basket/pressure plate is worn (same deal as the outer plate) then you may need to replace that too... not sure how expensvie they are.. is there anything im missing? one thing ive never seen anyone mention is make sure you put the steel plates in correctly. they are offset and each one must go in rotated 60 degrees to the last one. you wouldnt know this unless you had a manual and it is highly important... otherwise your clutch will be unbalanced... pretty much just get a manual and it takes you absolutley everything so you shouldnt get it wrong! oh yeah and if i was in america i would have bought the FAST kit for my shee, but im in australia and needed a clutch asap so i put my own together with new banshee steels, FZR1000 fibres and 6 barnett springs. got a ez pull perch and a motion pro cable to go tonight and then i can try it all out this weekend!

i had a tacho on my shee when dialling in the RZ motor and it pulled 10,300rpm in 6th with 16/42 gearing and 22inch razrs, which according to the banshee gearing calculator is 102mph... that was with 170 main jets though which were way lean i richened it right up to 210s and it only pulled 10,000rpm, which is still about 99mph i had a couple drags against a buddies '07 yfz450, which is piped, ported, cammed and vortexed, and we were dead even while i was struggling to keep the front down for the 1st 3 gears then i got my act together and it ran away from him like he had put the brakes on! i also had a race with a proven 12 second street car, and he didnt catch me till i was in 6th. in the process of buying some asphalt tyres then once the bansh is tuned myself and a group of buddies are gonna take our shees to the quarter mile! this was all on bitumen by the way

haha yeah it isnt even tuned properly yet and im already talkin about cheetah PVs!! nah a friend is selling a roller with the works: laeger +2+1s, -1 laeger swinger, elka elites all round... i want to buy it off him and put a crazy motor in it. originally wanted to build a 4mm RZ motor for it, because i have alot of RZ spares and know where i can get another set of barrels cheap, but now im thinking i might as well go all out with a cheetah! i think i want a 485cc cheetah, with about 160psi compression so i can run 98 octane fuel, 35mm air strykers (already have these lyin around) CPI in frames and +4 timing or even maybe mess around with a Dyna FS. (just try and copy an RZ map) would i need big bore CPIs for 485cc?? also with the nikasil bore, what usually happens when you lean out a motor? can you hone the nikasil? or does it have to get recoated every time this happens? what about when the rings/pistons just wear out? thanks, mark

i dont neccesarily want the cheapest prices... i want the best place to buy from. arent all 485cc cheetah kits going to be the same, no matter where i buy it from? so basically i want to hear from people who have these kits, and where they got them from to ascertain the best place to buy them... who should i call? most builders dont even have them listed on their sites, they only have the cubs... also, before i start calling around, what is the average price to pay for a complete kit? (ie cylinders, head pistons reeds intakes etc) i will factor in the pipes and carbs myself. thanks, mark.

i want a 485cc cheetah PV kit. who has the best prices and can help the most with set up reccomendations? i will be assembling and tuning the motor myself. also who actually manufactures this kit? is it trinity? or are they just the distributor? thanks, mark.

hey guys i hava a car tuning friend who owns an "Innovate" wide band 02 meter i want to use the device on my banshee for tuning/research purposes i would like to hear from guys with experience in this on where to put the sensor 1. in the header about 3 inches after the exhaust port 2. at the end of the expansion chamber just before the stingers 3. right at the end of the silencers which location would give the most accurate/useful results... thanks, mark

i took the thermostat out and tested it and it works fine, but should i leave it out now the stock banshee head doesnt have a thermostat and surely it would flow better with it out of there let me know what you guys think and also you RZ guys is yours out or did you leave it in thanks, mark

i was talking to an engine builder a while ago about getting some porting done to my cyls, and he said he was going to machine the face of the intake where the reeds bolt to the cylinders to get the reeds closer to the pistons and to raise the crankcase compression... on my new RZ motor i have v force reeds and a pro design intake, and i used the spacers between the reeds and the manifold to help get the carbs (pwk33s) off the clutch arm, but it still hits, so im gonna order a boss racing intake and then the spacers will be binned! as will the boost bottle lol

damn you guys get everything so much cheaper! we compression tested a buddy's banshee today. it has 19cc domes andn185 psi and he has been running 98ron fuel in it for years with no problems.

how much do you guys pay per litre for the 110 sunoco?? in australia it costs $155 for a 20 litre drum, i would burn that no worries in an afternoon riding! also how much compression should 19cc domes produce? (yet to buy a compression tester)

when i was assembling the top end of my RZ motor, the right power valve had a tiny amount of play side to side in its housing in the barrel. (about 1mm movement) the left one went in beautifully so i was a little concerned about the right one, but i had used all new seals etc and the through bolts were tight, so i slapped it all together anyway. now when i check my plugs after doing some plug chops, the right plug is always a little leaner than the left. its nothing major, one or two sizes up in main jet matches them up. im just not sure wether this is due to discrepancies in the crazy ass port job it has, or wether it is because of a leaky powervalve. would something leaking on the exhaust side even cause something like this?

a friend of mine has too much money lol... he has 3 250rs, one with a laeger chassis that he MX's, and a banshee with a 10mm TREX motor that he wants to put in a Laeger chassis... it wouldnt really be for mx with that motor, its just something hes always wanted to do...

yeah that would be nice but i cant just go buyin pipes left right and centre lol ill go broke!