4stroker

thanx for all the info guys! the carbs from jeff at FAST are cheaper but yeah, i think they will cost about $55us to ship here so it works out about the same in the end, but it sounds like it might be a better option still considering it comes with cable and other goodies... i already got a heap of jets i would just have to check what needles they come with... what needles does everyone here run in their 33s? when they go on the bike it will have ported RZ jugss and toomey t5s, advanced timing increased compression etc.... 98ron fuel. thanks, mark.

so what would the engine run like with a 4mm crank and stock porting? what exactly do they do to the ports, do they all get lowered 2mm and raised 2mm or something? thanks all the info so far! mark.

i can get keihin pwks pretty cheap through my local keihin distributor, however it is not a proper "kit" or anything meant for a banshee, it would just be 2 single 33s that i would be buying. when you buy a proper kit meant for a banshee from a shop, what comes with it? is there a choke mechanism or something that operates both chokes at once? anything else? anyone got a link to a throttle cable that would suit these carbs and the standard thumb throttle? also i already have a pro design billet intake, but where can i get the bigger rubber boots for it for these carbs? thanks, mark.

what needs to be done to the barrels/head/pistons when running a 4mm crank in the banshee? What does the 4mm refer too? Is it the measurement of how far they move the big end journal away from the center of the crank? Does 4mm stroke mean the piston travels 2mm lower than normal and 2mm higher as well? Or is it 4mm and 4mm?? What alterations do you need to do to the ports? Will the head automatically need cutting when running a stroker so the pistons don

dont want to cut my fatties up and i think these will work better anyway! im in australia so anyone keen to ship me some pipes? thanks, mark

http://www.geocities.com/kiwi_craig/PORTMAP.htm found it.... anyone care to comment? would really like to hear from people who know alot about these engines and/or porting in general! thanks, mark

i have been told that at low rpm when the powervalves are closed (or lowered) that the port timing in the rz jugs is exactly the same as the banshee jugs, and the only difference is when the valves are open, giving a higher exhaust port for more top end. is this correct? are there any extra ports or booster ports or anything? has anyone got a link to a site that shows the specs for both? i can get an rz engine cheap and wanted to do this mod for more low end/mid range but not if it is only going to boost top end. thanks, mark.

yeah my clutch dont slip, its got heavy duty springs and plates, so cant be that...

hmm, im not losing coolant, cant see how the impellor would affect the gearbox pressure though? maybe there is a leak between the water pump housing and the gearbox? haha i dunno, wouldnt water be in my oil then? its doing myhead in! when i fix it i will let you all know thanks, mark.

if my crank seals were blown wouldnt the crankcase be sucking in oil from the gearbox, not the other way around? i have been told that all banshees do this, some worse than others, and always when the gearbox is cold etc... but there must be a reason!

i am putting in 500ml of Silkolene Medium Gear oil, which has a gear oil rating of 85w-90 and crankcase rating of 20w-50. but it dont matter how much oil is in the damn thing it will keep comin out the breather hoses until its empty! must be a build up of pressure or something but why? anyone got any ideas?

Hey guys got a slight problem withmy banshee... after some hard riding (ie lots of drag racing and a few laps of the flat track) my bike spits gearbox oil out of the breather hose and all over the pipes, causing a smoke screen that is starting to get embarrassing! my mates quad does the same thing but he has re-routed the breather hose to drain onto his chain, i was going to do the same thing but thought i would ask why it is doing it first?? out of 5 banshees between me and my mates, all doing the same riding, all have the same mods and all in good condition, why does only our 2 bikes do it? we both definitely have the right amount of gearbox oil, we double and triple check everytime lol! anyone got any ideas?

its all good man i had a look on the dura blue website and the collar is for when installing this axle on a pre-2003 blaster. thanx anyway

hey guys just got my new axle in the mail i opened it all up to have a look and suss it out and have most of it figured out (there are no real instructions) but am confused about one little ring. the ring im talking about came in the bag with the castle nuts and spline spacers. i think it is referred to as a capture collar. where does this go and in what order on the axle? any help much appreciated! thanks, mark.

i ordered an "all balls" axle bearing kit to go in with my new axle. do i need to press the old ones out or the new ones in? any tips from people who have done this? thanks, mark.

that is what i will be doing! on a bit of a budget and got the pro design intake dirt cheap so gonna try make it work. might also get some of those stuffers for the vf3s from cascade or make my own (got a mate with a profile cutter) thanks for all the replies

will those boots in the dennis kirk link fit my pro design manifold? im asking because the manifold i bought is to suit stock carbs and i plan to put pwk33s on it.

i bought the pro design second hand, should get it in the mail tomorrow or early next week. i got it cheap, not sure which one it is, but surely whatever it is will be better than stock?

Ok so im sending out my cylinders soon to be ported, and i am just starting to think about my intake setup, and if it will need any work to be ideal. for example i have just purchased a pro design intake (the one with built in boost bottle), and am about to order a vf3 system as well. i havent actually handled or even looked at these parts yet, so just wanted to ask if there is any machining that can be done to get evrything to work better? as in, can you port match everything up to each other, and do people do this? thanks, mark

if you were handy with a die grinder couldnt you mod your own shift star to perform the same as the cascade one?

dont need longer brake lines and it comes with longer tie rods would having the rims flipped at the moment have almost the same leverage as having +2 arms and rims normal?

anyone else got any comments/advice on this setup?

Hi there, Currently my quad is all standard suspension/axle with all the rims turned inside out. I want to flattrack/speedway race it so i have ordered a durablue 2+2 axle and i can get some s/h ricky stator +2 arms pretty cheap. I dont really have enough money to get better shocks so what i want to do is run the arms with the stock shocks and the rims turned back in the right way for better steering. question is, will it sit lower and will the suspension be alot softer with the longer arms? lower doesnt bother me as we are going to make a lowering kit for the quad anyway to race, with the intention of putting it back to standard height to go for a muck around out on the trails or on the beach. will it be too low/soft for this sort of riding? (dont really do any jumps or anything) Also does +2 arms mean +2 each side or +2 all up?? Thanks, mark.

thanks for the replies guys he is a very capable man so it should all turn out sweet. what does a stock banshee with pipes and filter rev to anyone know?