4stroker

ha, im not serious about mx, i just wanted to know that answer im actually building an rz motor for flat track at the moment. i reckon the ultimate (banshee) mx motor would be an Eric Gorr (or anyone really as long as its mx port) modified rz motor, especially with the programmable ignitions and programmable PV controllers available for them, you could tune it to do just about what ever you wanted it to...

which aftermarket top end would be more suited to mx then the rest of em?

its not a pro design head with removable domes, so i cant just go and get different domes... what im saying is the standard head has been machined, and the guy who did it copied the combustion chamber design from standard 19cc pro design domes. i guess i will just have to take some measurement to figure out the exact design of the chambers and do a compression and squish check when i assemble the motor. thanks, mark.

just out of sheer curiosity, i would like us to create a list in this thread of all the aftermarket top ends that are and have been available for the banshee over the years. the format should read something like this: brand name/powervalve/stock or custom components/power delivery so for example a cheetah top end would read: cheetah - sea-doo style powervalve - custom components - drag/dune where as a cheetah cub would read: cheetah cub - non pv - stock components - drag dune cheetah is listed as custom components because it needs a different head, reeds etc to a banshee, where as a cheetah cub uses all stock stuff. so if you know of any aftermarket or custom top ends that have ever been commercially available over the years please post in here! thanks, mark.

the combustion chambers in my head on my new motor (rz350) have been machined to mimic 19cc pro design domes. is this a good design and what compression ratio will it put me at? 66mm bore size... also the barrels and head have been machined to use o-rings instead of gaskets, what are the pros cons of this and do i have to buy special high temp orings? thanks, mark.

well i got a chance to have a decent ride on the weekend, and i really like these pipes! even though i didnt get to compare with my mates bikes (there bikes werent running on the weekend!), i think this thing definitely has more balls then when it had the fatties on it. i got the mufflers apart before i went for a ride to check the packing and it was fine, so i guess these things are just bloody loud! i dont mind though, it sounds tough, and where i ride it wont bother anyone. i did a main jet plug chop with new plugs and got a nice tan colour. i threw another set in and did some slow/mid throttle riding and checked them again with the same result, maybe its a little rich off the bottom but it was like that before anyway. i know it sounds like dumb luck that i dont have to change the jetting but i was kinda expecting that anyway. so anyway the moral of the story is buy t5s! thanks, mark

i found a pic on the net that says the OD of where the filter clamps to the carb is 59mm. can anyone confirm?> if it is, i think i will get RU-1710 k&n filters, does this sound right?

i will post some pics of the port job on my cylinders next week, you should see the boost ports, they are massive, nearly the same size as the original intake ports. not sure what else has been done to them though, havent had a good look at them yet. also the standard rz head has been machined to take o-rings (as have the barrels) instead of gaskets, and the combustion chambers have been machined to mimic 19cc pro design domes. what compression ratio will this put me at and is this a good combustion chamber design? i will also have to take a pic of my electrical system as well, as i think i am missing something, i do not have that heat sink looking thing that is in matt96shees pic, what is that? thanks for all your help guys, it is much appreciated! i am sure that once i get this thing running i will be just as knowledgable as you guys and be able to help someone out as well! thanks,mark

hey guys been playin around with my motor today and have a few more questions the cases are stamped 1WY and my jugs are stamped 1UA, the cdi is a 1UA as well. what does this mean? is it the good stuff? also in the big box of parts i got with it there are two stators, one is banshee and one is rz, i just dont know which is which??? is there a way to tell? maybe from the numbers stamped on em? any help much appreciated, mark.

hey man could you email me those diagrams? [email protected] im thinking my setup should be pretty straight forward as it has all been running in a banshee before, the only reason it was removed from the bike was to put it back to standard and sell it.

thanks for your help man what pipes are you running on yours? reckon you could show me some pics of the pipe to ypvs clearance? its only a problem on the left pipe yeah? thanks again, mark.

you need to use the RZ stator and ignition because the ignition tells the PV servo motor when to open the power valves (6000rpm i believe). you just run a battery eliminator kit to get rid of the battery. and yeah my setup uses the tors mount for the pv servo as well. matt96shee did u have any trouble wiring yours up? thanks, mark.

hey guys, as soon as my barrels get back from the machine shop i will be diving head first into bolting an rz top end onto a banshee bottom end. i bought the rz motor as a conversion, ie its been in a banshee before, so has everything from the exhaust flanges to the custom bracket for the PV servo. i have ordered a new set of banshee base and intake gaskets, and an rz head gasket, what else do i need? are there any tips or tricks to installing the electrical system? or is it just a case of bolting everything up and connecting the wires? oh yeah, one more thing, 35mm keihins will be going on at the same time, do i have to worry about any tors removal stuff? i am guessin no with the rz electrical system... i am planning on buying a clymers manual for the rz before attempting this, as well as the banshee manual. will the rz manual have the procedure for re-setting the power valves? if not, where can i find this info? also, what is the best way to put the dent in my pipes? (toomey t5, bare finish) thanks! mark.

really?? i was under the impression that there wouldnt be THAT much difference, i just got these for my RZ conversion coz they were cheap and uncoated so i can put the dent in them for the RZ barrels and then get them jet hot coated, instead of having to do that to my FMFs... anyways thanks for the reply i guess i will see how they run this weekend...

i just finished swapping my fmf fatties and power core2 system with toomey t5s and silencers. i wont have time to ride it properly until the weekend but i took it for a quick strap up the road and my first impressions are: 1. it is EXCESSIVELY loud! the system is second hand and i havent checked the muffler packing yet, im assuming its shot... although these are meant to be a bit louder than the fmfs yeah? 2. the power hits later but lasts longer... pretty much confirming everything ive read about them. do you guys think i will need to rejet? the bike was jetted perfectly for the fatties before the swap. will do a plug chop on the weekend just to make sure. thanks, mark.

hey can anyone tell me the part number for K&N pods to suit 35mm air stryker carbs? air box removed of course... thanks, mark.

hey guys i picked up a second hand set of Toomey T5s to replace my FMF fattys, and i didnt get the springs that hold the pipes to the barrel. the fmf ones are too short for the toomeys. where can i get these springs from? maybe off another bike? thanks, mark

anyone?

hey guys, I have bought a basket case banshee motor for a carton of beer that needs a crank. (the crank is actually gone lol, previous owner deemed it unusable and binned it) Anyway I have got a crank off a bloke for next to nothing that he reckons is good, came out of a running motor that lunched the gearbox. I know next to nothing about these things but very keen to learn. I have handled all the bearings and it seems to me there is a little sideways play in all of them (read very little, but still noticeable) there is also a little sideways play in the big end bearings ie I can grab the top of the rods and move them side to side a touch Is this how it is meant to be? Also what is the best procedure for cleaning up the crank and pre-installation prep etc

will a ricky stator plate work on a rz bottem end?? im guessing it will but would like some advice before i buy! thanks, mark

hey mate im in australia too, im up in townsville in north queensland... are you guys on www.ozatv.com? if not checkit out its getting better all the time...

i got a quote to ship some pipes from america to australia and it was $110 us

is a dynatek fs something you use instead of an adjustable timing plate, or with it? what is the advantage to it? ie it is programmable but why is that good? also is it easy to program/change etc?? thanks, mark

hi guys, should i just grab one of those cast $35 ones off ebay or are they not accurate etc... dont really care about it being billet for the looks, but if it is more accurate then i will get one of them.. what does everyone think of the cast rmstator timing plates? would like to hear from people who have recently bought and installed a timing plate. thanks, mark also will any adjustable timing plate fit an rz350 engine or do you have to get a different one?

like the topic says guys who has the best deals on shearers> i want in frame small bores, chrome. thanks, mark.