4stroker

well according to that banshee gearing calculator, 10k in 6th with 16/42 gearing and 22inch tyres is 99mph... the tach isnt the RZ tach, its one of those ones that butterfly clips to your spark plug lead. got a hold of some EEK needles from a friend that im going to try soon, let yooz know how it goes, hopefully i can come down a few mainjet sizes with them in there...

hey guys i have an aggresively ported RZ motor in my banshee that im trying to set up for a high speed endurance race. top end power is what i want , and my buddy has a set of Trinity Stage 4s that hes willing to let me try. gonna give it a run on the weekend, but in the meantime, do you guys think it will run harder than the t5s with these on?

lets say i have $8000 to spend on a rolling chassis, would laeger build me a 250r geometery frame with a pro-trax front end that would accept the banshee motor and bodywork? if they wouldnt, who would build something similar?

yeah well i havent torn it down yet to check it out, but the clutch was working fine before i installed my heavily ported RZ top end... after doing about 3 full throttle acceleration runs on the bitumen to do some plug chops with the new motor the clutch gave up the ghost... it doesnt slip in say 1st or 2nd but as soon as you try hammering it from 3rd up it revs to the moon and goes nowhere! i doubt the rest of the assembly is worn out as this bike is very low hour, and im pretty sure its got barnett plates in it which i have heard are not much chop...

do i need to get the FZR steels too? my clutch is slipping pretty bad (barnett), can i just rough the steels up with some emery tape and put it back together with the FZR fibres? or should i just bite the bullet and replace the lot? thanks, mark.

thanks alot guys! my local yamaha dealer are a bunch of morons, does anyone which year FZR1000 i need to nab the plates from?

i have a spare bottem end that is supposed to have the complete RZ transmission assembly in it, minus the gear cluster, which is apparently banshee. the shift forks etc are definitely RZ, but how can i tell for sure if the cluster is RZ or banshee? thanks, mark.

who makes the plates and fibres for the FAST clutches? im in australia and need a clutch ASAP, and i thought the FAST clutch may just be a collection of parts that i could replicate instead of waiting 2 weeks for it to get here from america. any info greatly appreciated thanks, mark

another thing i just thought of, could my plugs be too hot for this motor? it has 19cc domes and im still running BR8ES plugs. in conjuction with a needle change i may go to a 9 (colder) plug and do some plug chops then. theory behind this being that with the higher compression and the standard plugs, it may be getting too hot in there and burning too much fuel. the plugs arent blistering or anything yet but hey its worth a try right?

hey thanks alot man it is making perfect sense! i am going to experiment with the CGL needles for a start, lift them up out of that hole and see if that richens it up enough to bring the main jet down a couple sizes. if it doesnt work the way i want it to i will get some DGL needles (if they exist?) and go from there. a richer taper would be less taper yeah? as in smaller in diameter, so that more fuel can flow around the needle out of the jet, as opposed to a leaner needle which would be fatter and effectively choke the main jet up?

man i am no expert on jetting (currently having problems with my own lol) but if everything is put together properly (eg no air leaks, no blockages in the intake or carb etc) then just lean out the right side (by coming down in jet size and/or needle position) until the plugs look the same as each other. the cylinders will never run exactly the same as each other, especially if it has been ported, because someone with a die grinder will never get two cylinders IDENTICAL to each other! also man are the plugs the same?? ie the right plug isnt a colder plug (BR9ES or similar) is it?

ok so it seems that on the 3rd clip, the last part of the needle (10-12mm) is still in the main jet at WOT i will lift it up out of there (4th or 5th clip) and see how it behaves then the needle is a CGL, what is the next richest needle? thanks, mark

thanks guys looks like i will be ordering a boss intake! and yep i got those jugs on man it runs like a raped ape! currently having jetting issues with it (needs huge main jets) see jetting forum thanks, mark

thanks for the replies guys i was under the impression that the needle didnt affect WOT at the moment am only worried about WOT, as i am planning to race this quad in "beach drag" race where i will be holding it flat for 5 laps around two barrels that are 500m apart on the hard sand. and how can you say theres no way it needs a 210 main if it pulls hard and clean and revs to 10000rpm not trying to start an argument or anything i am just trying to learn as much as possible! the needleis CGL in the middle clip. thanks, mark.

hey guys i have a pro design intake with 33mm pwks on it at the moment and even with spacers on it the left carb hits on the clutch arm where it goes into the case and makes the clutch pull hard. i want to buy a new intake that i can use without spacers and clears the clutch arm with my keihins. does the boss racing intake do this? thanks, mark.

ok guys so i finally got the rz motor built and in the bansh, and spent the weekend trying to dial in the jetting. these are my mods: RZ top end, aggressive port job (massive boost ports) T5 pipes Vforce 3 reeds reed spacers between the reeds and pro design in take with boost bottle 33mm PWKs K&N pods 16/42 gearing with 22inch tyres the carbs are brand new and came with 52 pilots, CGL needles in the middle clip, and 165 mains. I went straight to a 170 main and took it for a run, we had a tacho on it too: 170 mains: pulled real hard, 10300rpm in 6th gear, plugs were a light tan colour on the left, grey on the right i skipped straight up to 210 mains thinking it would just be way to rich and wouldnt pull it cleanly but: 210 mains, pulled just as hard (couldnt really tell i guess), 10000rpm neat in 6th gear, plugs were a nice tan 2.5mm ring on the left, still looking a bit dry and colourless on the right (light tan colour) we didnt have any jets bigger than that except for 275 (drilled) jets that my friend used to run in a alcohol burning rotax 500 275 mains, wouldnt pull cleanly at WOT, 9000rpm in 6th gear coughing and spluttering up high, plugs wet and oiled up so obviously im going to now get some jets inbetween 210 and 275 and get it dialled in sweet, but WHY DOES THIS THING NEED SUCH A BIG MAINJET??? it is alot bigger than ive ever heard of anyone using, can someone explain this to me please? thanks, mark

hey guys does the zero line up with the split in the cases to set the timing to standard? its a ricky stator plate

why cant you edit your own posts on this site? anyways i just did a search (left it a bit late i know...) and found a bunch of info on these arms. what i really want to know is this: what would the best set up be for me if i want my banshee to do everything. as in, race flat track on saturday nights, but still be able to hit the trails and the odd moto cross track on sundays... if i got say +2+1 arms, a round house -1 swinger, and top notch elkas, would the shocks give me enough adjustability to cater for all types of riding? i love my banshee and do not want a 4 poke or anything else, i just want my banshee to be able to do everything, it doesnt have to do it exceptionally well, but even if it did everything better then it does standard i would be happy! surely this isnt too much to ask? any advice on the best packages available would be much appreciated! thanks, mark.

hey guys does anyone on the hq run these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-2-1...sspagenameZWDVW are full flight a-arms good and is this guy legit? i really want to upgrade my front end to +2+1 with quality shocks, can anyone reccomend any other options? thanks mark.

it actually has a wiseco hot rods crank in it, are they trued welded? i didnt list it as a mod coz its just standard stroke etc..

yeah hes not exactly chasing numbers we just thought it wouldve had more thats all got some reeds cheap and the timing plate is easy so we thought wed try those couple of things, switch to 18cc and run race gas coz we can get it for the same price as pump fuel. should wake it up i reckon

hey guys a buddy of mine has an 01 banshee with the following mods: Noss machine head 19cc domes FMF sst pipes and silencers 32mm mikuni flat slides pod filters clean up port and cases matched to barrels recently got jetted/tuned on the dyno and it only pulled 44hp at the tyres i wouldve thought it would make alot more than this? this weekend we are going to install a timing plate (set it at +4) and v force 3 reeds. do you think this will get us a couple more hp? also would he benefit much from going to 18cc domes and running aviation fuel? have a buddy with a helicopter so its no problem lol.. are Noss machine domes the same as pro design domes etc?? thanks, mark

ok so i have unplugged the little box that resides beside the coil and it still runs fine. does this mean i will have no problem with removing all the tors wiring but still leaving the actual TORS hardware and standard throttle cable? thanks, mark

is it possible to leave the TORS hardware on top of the carbs with standard throttle cable and everything but remove the wiring? i want to get rid of the wiring right now but dont want to muck around with the throttle cable and idle screw kit as i am waiting on a set of 33mm pwks with throttle cable to suit... will it run? thanks, mark

hey guys i just posted some pics of my barrels in the image section, go in for a look and let me know what you think. would especially like to hear your thoughts on the "boost" ports or extra intake ports that they have. also, im pretty sure i have the RZvoltage regulator, its just hasnt got the heat sink fins on it, does this make sense? diff model perhaps? thanks, mark.