jayzx10r

I remember someone did a couple of dyno runs with and without the spacer and he posted there was actually a decrease in power with the spacers. It was less than 2HP but it was still a loss.... They are supposed to be used to clear the float bowl from the clutch arm. If you don't need them, you might wanna get rid of them because as was posted, the potential for a vacuum leak isn't worth the loss of performance!!

Bring it back from the dead!!

Shotgun!!!

X-2 on the triple spring shock thing....

The Quick Answer To your Question: If you are not experiencing pre-ignition, you don't need to run higher octane. The truth of the matter is the lower octane you can run the more power your engine makes, limiting this statement solely to a fuel choice parameter. Octane is resistance to ignition so unless you need it because of high compression, poor combustion design, or some other reason that is making the fuel ignite early, just run premium. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Me, I use 100LL at a 50/50 mix with pump premium because I have 165lbs compression ASL. I've easily burned through 300 gallons of this mix and my piston, rings, cylinder all look great so far. I've mixed a gallon of 100LL to 3 pump premium for 8 years in my YZ250 and finally got around to changing the piston out. Looked perfect and to tell you the truth, I would have been comfortable just re-ringing it...but since I had a complete kit I just did the whole enchilada. Maybe it's the result of using the Yamaha 2R, but I can't see a bit of harm running AVGAS. 2-strokes love lead and 100LL is proven in my book. One has to think the article posted by the Union 76 rep back in 1995 may have it's conclusion based on the fact that "race" fuel is a gravy commodity that earns the company 4x the profit margin. AVGAS is the cleanest fuel manufactured....period. One of the tests done mandates they pour fuel on a stainless steel plate and there be absolutely no residue after evaporation. A side bonus: AVGAS has a shelf life of a year while standard fuel has a 5 week shelf life recommendation. My $0.02 Jay in SanD.

I just finished my 3rd season and have had ZERO issues. Nothing broke, blew up, or otherwise necessitated a tow back to camp. Personally, I think that the higher you shift the powerband, the more you're gonna rebuild. Case in point: I run FMF Fatty's and while they have good top end, they have an awesome midrange so I'm able to ride a lot without having to ride in the higher RPM range like my buds with inframe drag pipes. I seem to recall something about mass/forces increasing exponentially to RPM...

I can see why you don't want to hit up Glamis...you might get a sunburn!!

Check my mods and decide for yourself. They were my choice after trying different ones on my Banshee.

I've used CPI's, T-5's and Fatty's. I kept the FMF's...the others got sold off. The Fatty's have such a great powerband everywhere that I think others have a perceived stronger top end pull because they have crappy low end/midrange that when the powerband kicks in, it seems stronger than it really is. Even Toomey stated the Fatty's made more power and had a better powerband when they showed dyno runs from a selection of different pipes (including the T-5's) in trying to show how great the T-6 pipes are. Their updated website doesn't include the T-5's anymore....

I want to head out to Glamis one more time but my g/f can't go so I'm looking to see if anyone else is going or want's to roll with. I'd hate to throw a chain or have a tech issue and attempt that long walk on my own. Last time I was out there, it was pretty empty so if you wanna go, let me know!! I bet it's epic out there now.... Jay In SanD.

I just looked at mine...your good. Think about it...if you put the lower on the other way, it would be behind the original wheel position. Did you set it up according to Lonestar specs? http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf If it was installed wrong, you couldn't attain the proper camber/toe.

One of these.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214 And here is what you need to do and how to do it.... http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf There ya go!! BTW: One of the bonuses of the adjustable upper arm is that you can make allowances for frame manufacturer irregularities or bent frames. I set my Lonestars up and they haven't come out of adjustment after 3 seasons. I'd buy this type again.

I missed out on one sent 25MAR10.

All I can tell you is that I've never been to anywhere than Glamis, Buttercup,, and Gordon's Well and honestly, the videos you've seen portraying it to be crazy drunken loons is far from the reality 99.9% experience. Datona Beach looked like the place to be to party and make a ruckus, but I went there and it was like a ghost town. The locals told me that it only rocked during Spring Break and even then, mostly when the cameras were rolling. Maybe it's because I hang on Gecko Rd, but it's been ultra family friendly every time I've been out there. I've been out for all the big weekends this year, except easter...I'm heading out for 5 days the week after. Some people are looking for their 15 minutes of fame.....

I've had this happen to me. Check the rear vent hose....if it clogs, it'll blow oil out the front hose.

The question is...do you have to run higher octane than what is available out of the premium pump? AVGAS doesn't need more oil to run so run whatever is recommended as far as a ratio goes. Different oils can have different suggested mixing ratios. The consensus seems to be that if you have over 155PSI compression, you need more octane than premium has. I have 165PSI and I run a 50/50 mix of 100LL AVGAS and premium and mix 36/1 Yamalube 2r. No issues, problems, or disappointments after 3 hard seasons at Glamis. I'm a AVGAS happy guy at less than half the price of race fuel.

Do you know where on Gecko they are camping? I didn't find what pad they are gonna be on.... Elmo, huh??

I'm planning on camping at Pad 3. Where are you gonna be?

Taking off for Glamis tomorrow and staying out for the weekend before I stay out there for 5 days over Prez. Anyone else planning on a run out there this weekend? I'll be out on Pad 3. I'll have an Orange Safety Cone on the roof of my '80's RV. Drop in and have a beer... Jay from SanD.

I'll be at Pad 3, next to the camp host. Finalized my days...11th-15th. PM me if you wanna trade numbers. We should set up a meetup on Saturday at the Evening Drags or at the Glamis Store!! C-ya there. Jay from SanD.

If you're not gonna port or stroke, you might as well stick with the stockers. Get rid of the TORS and call it a day. I know it's vogue to run big ass carbs, but the trade-off in power delivery/throttle response/fuel economy isn't worth the resultant crappy performance on a stockish motor. Your greater gain would be to clean up the transfers or get porting matched to your riding type. Finally: The answer to the elusive carb sizing question is.... Get the smallest one(s) that will do the job you want. I run 33PWK's but I only run in the sand, have a somewhat aggressive port +4mil. My $0.02 Jay in SanD.

That's a friggin shame/// I was looking forward to meeting you this year...

Without knowing how stock your motor is, the basics would be: 1. Weld the crank...or better yet, buy a 4mil stroker crank. 2. Have your porting match your desired riding type. 3. Your gonna need pipes. 4. Rejetting, or a set of larger carbs. 5. A set of Boyesen Dual Stage reeds or an aftermarket reed cage. 6. New filter setup. 7. An aftermarket head with interchangeable domes for higher compression. That'll get you started....

You'd probably be happier with stock carbs on your basically stock motor. Maybe after you port your motor you might consider larger carbs. I run 33's on mine, but I have a bit more done to my motor....

My limited experience has my favorite sand tire as a Sand Tires Unlimited Razorback. REAL LIGHT and I can't imagine there's a tire that can out steer it. The tire only weighs 6 lbs!! Air 'em down to 2 1/2 psi and have a great time!! http://www.sandtiresunlimited.com/rb.html