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I ordered the carb sync tool yesterday hopefully I get it before the weekend so I have something to tweak out on. No, I did not go up one tooth on the sprocket can you please explain why I would want to do this and what it will do for the bike. Im thinking about getting 20x11x10 8 cup haulers on douglas blue label rims if that makes any difference in gearing. I still don't know all about gearing yet, but I could take your engine apart for you. =)

The guy that he bought it from did not say if it was ported or not.

Im in San Diego. PM sent im pretty sure I want them if the people before me do not take them. I still have a few questions though! 619!!!

My friend bought this bike used and its pretty damn quick. CPI Pipes and a CDI computer mod with 3 selections and filter pods and a possible port job?

Yeah I dont want to do THAT much work out in the dunes, but I guess I could. It just seems like a very large tire for duneing. I had sand skate II's on my quadzilla that I used to have and I spun the sh*t out of those things on drags but yes they worked well in the dunes. Maybe one size smaller than a 22x11x10 - 8 cup hauler and I should be alright for the dunes? I still like to turn and burn. I guess if I bark up the RPM's I can spin anything in sand since I do have a 4+ swinger.

Right now I have the paddles shown in the signature, but I think they are to stiff and the wheels are to heavy and I can spin the piss out of them with just pipes and a k&n. I ride at Gordon's Well and Glamis. I just got my bike back together from Kevin Herr who did my port job. He is recommending a 22x11x10 - 8 cup hauler tire with douglas blue label wheels. I got off the phone and have not talked to him since then I didn't even think twice to ask if that is a good duneing tire. That tire seems more like a drag race / hill shooter tire to me and I need something that will also be dune friendly. I called Daryl Smith a sand tire shop out here in San Diego and he quoted me (but he had to get off the phone for a customer in the shop) $265 plus tax for the wheels and tires in the size that he recomends, but he didn't even tell me the size. Whatever! The sprokets on my bike are still stock. I have a +4 swing arm.

I just got my bike back together after getting a purt from Herr Jugs Racing. I have not had a chance to ride it yet though. When I get the bike all warmed up through it seems to revv up a lot more than it used to and faster. Im wondering if that is sort of how a port job works.... I cant wait to ride it. September 14th im going out to Gordons for a shake down and jetting weekend so that im all dialed in before the big trip on Halloween. :cool:

Yeah I got it to idle, I just need to sync the carbs. Because, even through the slides look like they are up the same heighth and they move at the same times according to my eye when I start the bike up I get a lot more exhaust smoke out the left side. I wonder what is up with that!!! I hope it is a snyc issue.

Dang I didn't even know that they were having night races. I would be down to go, but my woman and I are going on vacation at the end of the month and need to save our $$$. Hmm damn that sounds so fun! Maybe I can convince her to just let ME go and it will be much cheaper. Chicken strips, chips, beer and gas instead of all the other BS that girls always want!! DAMNIT!

I know... I really wont be able to get the jetting down until I have paddles on it and im at the dunes and I check it out. I know along with the TORS elimination I also installed recently ported jugs, pod filters, vf3 reeds, noss head w/ 19cc domes, billet impellar, cluth springs, and a 200 watt ricky stator with timing plate set up to +6. There were size 300 jets in there and the person who did my porting said 350 is a safe starting point, but may be to fat... I'll have to wait until I get to the dunes because I think knobbies on the street is not as much work on the bike as paddles in the sand and jetting for the sand is different, but maybe im wrong.

Well I took out the carb slide on one carb to make sure it was in right and it was so I set the throttle using the top of the carbs until the carbs were synchronized to the best of my eye. Then I turned the idle screws all the way out and then screwed each one in until I felt them touch the slides. Then I started up the bike (wished I had someone else there to hold the throttle for me) and turned the right side idle screw in 1 turn then the left 1 turn (I was holding the throttle at where I wanted the bike to idle) then when I turned the right side in a little more I heard the idle jump up a little bit so I turned the left one the same amount and let go of the throttle and BAM it was good to go! I think the reason that at times the bike was idling REALLY ROUGH so rough that I could not even stick a flat head into the idle screw is because the carbs slides were not open the same causing uneven gas and air flow. But its all good now and it starts up and sounds a little different with all the crap I put on and smells really good with that race gas in there. This week I'll cut off those tabs that hit the K&N pods and take the beast down the street for a jetting test. I still have not checked the jetting. And I don

Awesome everyone thank you for the replies. I got the bike to idle. Apparently the carb slides ARE a little bit open when they are all the way down. I got the bike to idle perfect, and full throttle is obtained. Now I just have to cut these two nipples off the frame that used to hold the stock air box because my new pod filters jam into them.

Okay well then if that small gap there is normal then I don't know what the problem is because I adjust the idle screws all the say in and it still willl not idle on its own. It also seems like my bike vibarates a lot more after all the sh*t Installed.

I get one of those. Thanks man! I just need to figure out why my slides are not closing all the way!

Okay so im trying to adjust the idle. I installed a Toomey TORS elemination kit and cant get the slides to go all the way down even through everything seems to be the way it should be to let the slides all the way down. I want to use the idle screws to adjust the idle. As you can see the slide is still open. Another one. This top cable is screwed all the way in to allow the slide to go down, but it is still now down all the way As you can see here the throttle cable is not even hooked up! And on both carbs the idle screws are all the way out as seen here

Damn carbs are a pain in my ass. On stock carbs if the throttle is all the way off and the idle screws are out should the black slides be ALL THE WAY DOWN or do they stay up just a little bit?

$250 - $500 for a port job.

Damn I called and a carb sync gauge is $230 !!! Damnit I dont have anymore money to spend on this thing until the end of the month. And im not saying that you are wrong, but the guy that did the porting said that the needles and what not would be okay and that the main jet is the only one that mattered. I don't get it. I also do not even know what you mean about the needle being on the 4th clip is that the stock needel just moved around or something in there?

Everything done and installed yesterday- Recently ported jugs (http://www.herrjugsracing.com/) Kevin Herr did the work, Noss head 19cc domes, VF3 reeds, pod filters, clutch springs, billet impellar, ricky stator 200watt and adjustable timing plate set to +6, stock carbs that I also installed a Toomey TORS elemination kit on as well, and using 100 octane gas race gas. The bike has toomey t5 pipes on it. and I got the bike to start last night. It does not idle and I don't know much about carbs... =( I was playing with the bolts on the cap at the top of the carbs trying to get it to idle and I could not. I read that the idle adjustment bolts are only for "fine tuneing" so I didn't really mess with those yet. The throttle seems like I barely touch it and the bike is revving to high heaven so I don't know if that is a bad adjustment on the carbs or if its just the way its going to be now. Mr. Herr who did the port job has me starting off with 350 for the main jet. He said that MAY be and probably is to fat, but better safe than sorry. So... It also seems that the bike is smoking less out of the pipes when it was running. I have 340 and 330 jets that I could also try, but if I cant get it to idle (and its really hard to start) Like 5 kicks AND the throttle has to be 1/2 way open before it does start, there is no use flying down the street in 3rd gear pinned to check the jetting, ya know what I mean? Once I get it to idle (and start normal) I'll feel more safe flying down the street. The jets that were in the carbs before this install were 300 I don't know if that means anything, but now you know and maybe give a brotha some advide! Do you guys think that I should just spend the $$$ and take is somewhere to be dyno tuned? I think that is kind of dumb through because I would like to know how to do these adjustments myself incase me or a friend need to do the work out in the dunes... When the top end was apart...

My brother is down to trade you if those pipes are in good condition. Thanks.

No he wants to try and sell the t-6 pipes before he gets new pipes. What type of condition are they in because the t-6 pipes are mint.

Im actually makeing this post for my brother so you can either reply to me on here or call him with the below phone number. The pipes and silencers are in perfect condition and no scratches. These pipes were made for banshees with only bolt on power additing parts. He is turning his bike in to a drag bike and will be going with a different set of pipes. Will only ship in the United States and buyer pays shipping. The Toomey T-6 pipes can be seen on the Toomey website. They look almost identical to the pipes on my profile. They will be shipping from San Diego, California. His name is Mike. If you call and no answer leave you name and number. 1-619-400-9200

Price lowered for the rear only I will sell for $140 and YOU pay shipping. That is my final offer.

that is about all that my bike is going to have so I should be close to that HP hopefully. The only things my bike wont have that your does is a trued and welded crank. Im using 19cc domes through. What type of gas does your builder recommend?