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Alright well i'll get some bigger main jets and test it out again. The biggest I had in there at 1st was a 350 so I guess i'll get some 360's and 370's tonight after work. This weekend I'll put in the stock stator and see if things are any better, but my concern is that my port builder recommends +6 on the timing and my ricky stator is connected to the timing plate so if I put the stock back in there then its stock timing. Well I guess if the bike runs right then the problem was either the ricky stator or the timing... can timing really make the bike run the way it is?

I just dont understand because the guy that did the port recommended everything that I have have and said that the 350 jets will most likely be fat and I would have to jet down. This is really dissapointing and I may take it somewhere and have them fix the problems.

Is it poping like fire crackers or just bogging and cutting out? I would say not TOTALLY like fire crackers. More like a black cat fire cracker every now and then but not perfectly in a row What is your current jetting. Main Jet = 340 Pilot Jet = Don't know whatever it had on it from ALBA when the previous owner installed t-5, single K&N and a milled head What kind of Needles= Don't know whatever it had on it from ALBA when the previous owner installed t-5, single K&N and a milled head What clip position = Don't know whatever it had on it from ALBA when the previous owner installed t-5, single K&N and a milled head Turn out on A/F Screws = Don't know whatever it had on it from ALBA when the previous owner installed t-5, single K&N and a milled head

I never touched the floats at all so I am assuming that they are correct. They move up and down freely and there was 0 dirt/sand anywhere in the carbs when I had them off.

2005 banshee I bought in 2006 and it already had toomey t-5 pipes, a single K&N filter, and a milled head. The bike ran PERFECT ALL SEASON! 2 weeks ago I put on the recelty ported jugs (www.herrjugsracing.com) Noss Head with 19cc domes 200 watt Ricky Stator with attached adjustable timing plate set to +6 (set to +6 per the builder that did the port) K&N Filter pods V force 3 reeds 3 stiffer clutch springs and a billet impellar I also installed a toomey TORS elimination kit I am still on stock carbs. I have the bike running on 100 octane gas @ 32:1. He recommended that I start out with 350 jets and go down from there. I took the bike down the street after the install and right when im hitting the power band it feels like its cutting out and it pops. I dont know if its "detonating" or what the sound is im not a pro by any means. I think maybe the 350's are to fat so I go down to 340's and it does the same thing. For ease of reading the spark plugs I install new ones every time I do the new jets. I have jetted a bike before it was a 99 CR 250. These plugs to me look like something is wrong! Is the bike running to lean? Is that why it pops? Why does it fall on its ASS when I hit the power band? I made sure that the carb slides were in correct and all that. Its weird because I can sit there when I first start it and it runs fine and I can rev it to the moon with no cut out. Here are pictures of the spark plugs. The best pictures I could get.

Okay I read something on that and I can use a matchbook to judge that amount of room? The front cover from a matchbook? AND FYI my head lights and break lights and stuff work awesome when the bike is on with the 200 watt rickey stator if that makes any difference. I guess its different when its actually under load and im driving the bike down the street. That is when it starts to run sh*ty when I hit the power band.

I have no idea what you mean by this. Please advise!

I have not checked for spark yet. I will do that tonight even through I dont know why it would not spark when it worked fine and hauled a$$ before I got it ported. Ohh maybe because I installed a 200watt ricky stator and timing plage and advanced the timing to +6 could have something to do with it. How do I go about checking for air leaks? Start it and feel around with my hand? Spray some water with soap in it and look for bubbles like on a tire bead?

No offence taken. I never actually removed the pistons. They are in great condition the bike is an 05 and has low hours. I did not re-sync the barbs after the TORS removal because I don't have the tool yet. Its in the mail on its way to my house. I know that some people sync by eye so that is what I tried to do and they are spot on according to my eyes. What I dont understand is how the right side is running so much different then the left!

Can someone explain what the air mixture screw is and does? I install TORS elimination thumb kit along with a ton of other things and am still trying to get something right on the carbs. It idles when both idle screws are both almost all the way in. I have not messed with the air mixture screw yet. It starts and runs but when it hits the power band it runs like crap. I checked the plugs and the left one was okay and the right one looked like it was still bran new. I know its running on the right side because I get some smoke out of the pipe its just a lot less than the left side. At one point there was no smoke just some air out of the right side and the air felt cold and the left side was smoking like normal and was nice and warm.

Thanks for the link. I can not even get the bike up to enough RMP while riding it to even do an accurate plug check/chop. The right side seems okay but when I took the plug out of the left side it lookd bran new like its never been used. I know that side is running because the pipe smokes, but something is wrong. I put new plugs in it after I put the engine back together.

Yes, sir. How can I use a multimeter to hlep me in this situation. Are you thinking the may be a problem with the ricky stator? Do you know about all the mods that I just got done doing to the bike???

Okay so I got the bike to idle and all that. At idle it seems fine. So I had the 350 jets that my builder told me to use as a starting point and I take it down the street and as soon as its hitting the power band its cutting out and I even heard a pop I think from the pipes. So I put the 340 jet in thinking that maybe the other jet was to big and go down the street and it does the same thing and I think I heard a pop again. So I go to take out the plugs and the left side plug looks pretty normal ya know a little black and a little oil. The right side plug comes out and looks as if it was still bran new even a little white so now I have no clue what to do the right side is not running correctly. This is not a jetting issue becase the left side seems to be fine. am I right? What could it be!

I'll try going from a 350 main to a 340 and I guess I can research on how to do a plug chop. I'll report back here when done.

Alright so here is what happened. The plastic piece that slips over the jet fell off and into the float boal and the piece that the jet screws into itself was moveing. So, I took off the other side and saw that it had a washer that held the jet against the carb so the piece that the carb screws into would not slide. That problem has been solved. I had to go get a new washer and that was a PITA to find. Right after I got the carbs back together it was smoking a LOT more out of the left side so I revved the shit out of it and killed the engine. The left spart plug looked okay for just a rev up but the right side plug looked BRAN NEW like it had never even sparked before. Please note that I did put bran new plugs in after all the work that I did to the bike................. So I get it all back together finally and take it down the street. Please note that the guy that did the porting is starting me off with the fatest jet possible because he said its better safe than sorry. So now I have it running and its idleing and its smoking and feels the same out of both sides so I take it down the street. I actually have enough power this time to make it UP the driveway. I get on the street and start to accelarate in 1st gear and right when it about to hit the power band it goes chug, chug, chug, so I shift into 2nd and right when it is about to hit the power band it goes chug, chug, chug, like it wished is could actually hit the power band. Given the mods I have what would you say that is? coule this be a sign that the main jet is WAY to fat? Couled it be the ricky 200 watt stator? Please help a brotha out. I know that I can not jet the bike correctly on the street because I will be riding with haulers in the sand, but something is wrong. Let me know what you think I should try next. Try jetting down to a 340 instead of a 350? I also have 330's because the guy that did the porting said the stock carbs would need something between 350 and 330 for sand and the haulers.

Well you were right about the washer. that is in there now. Now I want to know why the left side is running fine and the right side spits out almost pure gas unless I really rev it then it smokes a little

The main jet on the right side carb slides in and out to the piece that it screwes into. I am pretty sure this is NOT how it should be. What am I doing wrong? I checked on a friends bike and this is not the case. The actual piece that the jet screws into moves up and down within its hole. Please let me know if this carb is completely broken .

Alright well I think I might have figured something. I took of the right side carb... the one on the side that was not running right and not smoking as much. I took off the float bowl and the plastic piece that slides over the JET was in the bowl and not stuck over the jet like it sould have been. ALSO WTF is the problem here... Is the actual jet supposed to go up and down on the piece that it screws into??? The actual jet screws into the middle area of the float bowl and once its screwed in (which its hard to screw it into) because the peace that accepts the jet moves up and down! Something is not right here... Please advise I did not check with the other side that is running correctly simply because it is running well on the left side.

How do I check float levels? I forgot to say when I first got everything back together and bolted the gas tank back on I turned on the gas and it flowed directly out the bottom of the right side carb. I took off the bowl and took out the jet and put it back in and it solved the problem. I guess it was not in all the way or someting, but that is the side that is not smoking as much as the left side. I will look at the plugs... Normal through? Really black = to rich and white = lean and tan = perfect?

Im running pod filters. Alright so I started it up this morning and the lights work and all that BS so I don't know if that is any sign that the ricky stator is okay, but whatever. I got more revs out of it BUT the left side had much more exhaust coming out of it than the right side so maybe I need to check out the carb adjustment again. So I have stock carbs. It was rejetted when I bought it for the head mill t-5 pipes and the k&n single filter it used to have. After the port job the builder that did it told me to jet up to 350 (and it will probably be to fat) and I needed to use that as a starting point. I have done no needle adjustment but I have read about needle adjustment. Do you guys think that the needle placement could have anything to do with it? I have never messed with the needle before so I dont know really what it actually does or how it works. Thanks for the info y'all. I need to run some errands then its time to tweak out on the banshee again. Also there are some other things on the side of the carb that may need adjustment? The air something or other? Its just some other screw that is on the side of the stock carbs. In saying "some other screw" I mean other than the idle adjustment screw.

Carb slides are perfect I double checked that when I was adjusting idle. LOL... forgot the choke tube when I was doing the idle but its in how. I guess I could have installed something incorrectly, but it ran perfect last weekend. Well not ran because I didn't ride it it idled perfect and reved to the moon. Yeah, that is what my builder said. He said that people with higher revving banshees can have problems with the ricky stator and the bike can cut out after X amount of RPM, but he never described a problem like this. Yeah, the choke tube is connected. No I can rev it to MAYBE like 2000 RPM but it chug a luggs to get there like the choke is on WAY to much or something. All TORS stuff even that black box on the frame is off. Does Ricky Stator know that people are having problems with his parts? WTF if so why is he not DOING SOMETHING about it? I want brignt lights at night and the stock one sucks. Its a big pain in my ass to get the all that fly wheel crap off and the timing plate, but I guess that can be one problem I can say that it is or isin't after I do it. **********sigh***************

So I installed this last weekend and adjusted the carbs and actually got the bike to idle. Everything seemed fine I would warm it up and then rev it up and check if there were any leaks because I also installed clutch springs and a 200W stator and timing plate and a TORS elimination kit and re jetted it to 350 (which the guy that did the port said may be a little fat but better safe than sorry) So Friday im all excited I put the knobbies on and it starts fine and I get it out by the street and I cant get any RPM out of it now. I cant get it to rev like it did a week ago and I cant even make it out of the driveway that has a little grade. Now its a pain in the ass to start and I through maybe it needed to be cleared out but I can not get the RPM up enough to clear it out. Does anoyne have any suggestions. I thought everything was all good and that I would only have to adjust jetting and I was going to waste $ to go out to Gordon's prior to my "big trip" so I could ride in sand and get the jetting correct, but if it wont even ride on the street then something is wrong. Maybe I need to wait until morning and try and clear it out better. It just seems like its being choked even through its not on. Ya know?

Mine were like RAZOR SHARP there at that split you can see down the middle of the intake after my port job.

Jay, I have T-5's and they are a really good pipe, they fit well, and work like they say they will work. I do think that the CPI is a better performing pipe though that comes at the cost of fit and finish. The reason that I can compare the two is because my best friend has CPI's and I have T-5's and he beats me every time (prior to my port of course) with those CPI's and we had the same mods. ANDDD he is a much newer rider than I am. I was very impressed with the CPI's performance.

They have been sold to me already. Thanks Jay!