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Mmm beer... Check... I have a cold one right here... Samual Adams I'll invest in a better one. Do any banshee web sites sell one that you would recommend?

Kevin Herr did a dune port for t-5's. Whatever it runs perfect and its on 100 octane gas so fuck I dont even care about the compression then because that is what he recommended I run as far as gas. The tool does not screw in as far as the spark plug does so maybe that is the problem.

WOT and kicked it more than 20 times. Compression = 110 cold. Now what? That is to low right? tHE Bike is an 05 w/ low hours but I did just put the jogs on so maybe the rings are not fully seated agaiN?

OK so the bike needs to be warmed up and I need to hold it wide open while checking the compression yeah?

lol.. oops I gave it no throttle and I kicked it about 20 times.

I was screwed in all the way. I dont know the exhaust port duration.

I just installed ported jugs and a noss head with 19 cc domes. I never checked the compression before the install but I just did today and its at 100 psi. The compression check tool was a $20 one from harbor freight, but isin't my compression supposed to be higher with those domes? Do you think that the rings need to re-seat before the compression will go up? Do you think that the tool is a cheapie and is really readding wrong numbers? Thanks. What are the instructions for checking the compression. I did it in the morning is the bike supposed to be warm?

Bike fixed and running well. Thanks guys. I bought a pull start polaris as previously recommended.

I have 390 jets in there now. Where should I put the needle? I can take it apart tomorrow and check to see where its at now and adjust

Sorry I do not know what kind of needles are in it. When I got the bike from a guy that bought it new he had a milled head, single k and N filter with lid removed, and toomey t 5's. All done at the motorcycle store alba so whatever they would set the needle and jet to. I think when I took out the stock ones there were 220's. The bike ran like a dream all last season.

Don't you think that there should at least be some blackness or oil on the plugs after just idleing until its warm and then taking it down the street twice or no?g I have not yet touched the needle the needls is inthe placce that it was when I BOUGHT the bike which had a milled head, K and N single filter no lid and t 5's. I will do a plut chop soon like you said. I keep forgetting to to get a damn hack saw and I need new plugs now. A chop will tell you whatever you need to know with just warming it up and going down the street? Like you said I may still need to go up on the main? What about the needle posltion? Do I need to run it balls to the wall for fifteen minutes before I get an accurate reading? Im scared im going to seize it with all this lean bull shit.

Alright so on top of talking to someone at Ricky Stator and him saying that the pick up coil was in perfect condition I adjusted it. I stuck a match book cover in there... Pressed it against the nub and tightened it down. Very low on hopes I take it down the street and it actually HITS the power band and it feels a LOT better than it did. I don't think I heard any popping. So (as fast I can get on my street in 3rd I was pinned) and then kill the bike and pull in the clutch. I coast to the house and pull the plugs and they still look WHITE maybe a LITTLE tan but there are not looking like plugs should be looking because the bike has 390 jets in it right now. What I also notice when I started it was that it is still smoking more out of the left side than the right. AND when I took the plugs out the left side had smoke coming out of the plug hole and the right side did not. Advice please. And remember that the builder said that 350's were a good starting point and that I would most likely need to jet down. Thanks!

I talked to someone at Ricky Stator today and e mailed them those pictures. He said that is exactly what the pick up coil is supposed to look like so when I get home if its not to late im going to adjust the distance and try the bike again.

I dont have it here to look at. Will I need to cut wires and splice or does the pick up have a plug and un plug piece on it? If I cut the ricky stator pick up coil off im pretty sure he would NOT return it if it ends up being faulty, ya know?

Is the stock pick up coil JUST AS effective as the ricky stator pick up coil?

I had a .02 and a .03 double sides feeler gauge. I tried both ends and they both had room to wobble the pick up was the distance of about an entire match book away from the nub.

I JUST checked the side before I closed the garage door for the night and there is no slot to adjust the pick up coil. Do I just bend the metal on the coil itself to make it .017?

Are you joking or do you really think that is the cause of the problem I dont think there were right and left holes because is mounted vertically.......... Maybe the bottom holes that I didn't actually see because it was low on the motor.

Okay so have we determined that it is broken? Would this cause the problems that I am having? What I do not also understand is how you are supposed to adjust the pick up coil IF it is mounted on screws that do not slide the spot the are screwed into

I have been following the advice of everyone that has been helping me along with this build up. I honestly really appreciate it. So my thing was I had the following mods done. 2 weeks ago I put on the recelty ported jugs (www.herrjugsracing.com) Noss Head with 19cc domes 200 watt Ricky Stator with attached adjustable timing plate set to +6 (set to +6 per the builder that did the port) K&N Filter pods V force 3 reeds 3 stiffer clutch springs and a billet impellar I also installed a toomey TORS elimination kit I am still on stock carbs. I have the bike running on 100 octane gas @ 32:1. He recommended that I start out with 350 jets and go down from there. So, I had one poerson recommend because the plugs were WHITE and/or looking like they were still bran new after a ride in 3rd down the street which it would not even do because every time I hit the power band it would break up, not make it through, and pop and crackle like a black cat firework until I went to low RPM in the next gear. Please note that it does run and idle PERFECT when its just sitting there. Someone recommended that I try a 390 jet even though the man that did the port said 350 would most likely be fat and I would really probably need a 340 or a 330. So, getting to tonights adventures. I put in 390 jets with BRAN NEW spark plugs AGAIN and take it down the street. It seems 1% better IF anything and in 3rd (popping like a champ and feeling like shit in the power band) I kill the engine and coast home. Check the plugs.... same shit they are white and looking like the are hardly used... Okay, this has to be a mother trucking stator problem and im pissed. I take off the side case and am about the check the gap of the pick up coil WHICH I never checked when I installed it looks to me like it is broken. Everything from Ricky Stator was pre-mounted and I never thought anything of it. I followed the directions for install. Is this pick up coil BUSTED or WHAT!!!!! It looks like it is. The 1st 2 pictures are of the ricky stator pick up coil and the 3rd picture is of my STOCK stator pick up coil. Let me know what you think AND let me know the gap that should be between the pick up and the nubs on the flywheel. Thanks and do you think this is my problem? This is how I received the 200 watt ricky stator which I just finally noticed.... Normal? I though nothing of it because it was bran new. The ricky stator pick up coil. Below is a stock pick up coil picture

I never hit the flywhee. I read up on it before I actually took it off. Then I had to run to the store to get a flywheel puller. I will do the jetting change 1st because that is the easyest thing to do. I just dont undersatnad... Its running (what looks to be) really lean, but yet the guy that did the port and knew my mods said to use a 350 jet and that will 99% chance be to fat. I started w/ a 350 then 340 with no realy difference in how it was running.

Novice Group: Members Posts: 144 Roosts: 3400 Joined: 12-May 07 From: Mt. Pleasant, MI. Member No.: 25582 I know things can get quite discouraging, but be patient, and stay persistant. If you have the mechanical "know how" to tear the topend apart and re-assmble it, then you will be able to fix this. Okay that makes me feel better! One of the things I didn't catch is, did you "torque" the cylinder base down on both cylinders ? Yes sir. Another thing, did you make sure and grease the O-rings on the head so they stay put ? Yes I did Did you "torque" the cylinder head ? Yep! Did you torque the 4 bolts that mount the intake boots to the back of the cylinders ? That's a negative. Arn't they allen head bolts? I am at work and can not look at the bike now. What is the torque spec? I would also consider a compression check. I have a compression check tool, but is was a cheap a$$ like $20 one. I will do it through because im sure its more accurate than guessing! I will report back with the total compression. Just trying to help eliminate the possibilities of an air leak. Yeah, I tested for air leak with a can of carb cleaner while the bike was running and didn't find anything I still need to torque the boots that bolt to the back of the jugs! I would also get those carbs synchronized. Carb sync tool is on the way and was ordered last Friday! Like stated earlier I would start with the recommended jetting, with the needle clip in the middle position, screw your airscrews all the way in and turn them both out to whatever is recommended as a starting point. I have not adjusted the needle yet. Im going to test and make sure the stator and the timing have nothing to do with the why the bike is running like it is then go BACK to tweaking with the carbs. I dont know what the "starting point" the air screws are supposed to be at but the bike idles perfect. Don't give up !!! "YOU CAN DO IT" I have all next weekend to tweak on it I hope that I can do it! Mmmm... beer = motivation.

Okay, okay im sure buy now the "regulars" on here know my bike drama that I have been having. I just came up with what I will do to eliminate things that could be causing the proble. 1st im going to put in the 350 jets that my builder said may be to fat, but is a good starting point. 2nd im going to take off the stator side cover and set the timing back to 0 3rd RIDE down the street and see if it breaks up in the power band and crackles like it used to. 4th if it still DOES break up in the power band and crackle then I will take OUT the ricky stator and put in my factory one. 5th RIDE down the street and test again 6th if its does NOT crackle and break up in the power band then I found my problem. If it DOES still run the same then I'll put back in the 200 watt stator and set the timing back to +6 and rest assured that the stator or the +6 timing is NOT the problem. 7th... I guess go fatter on the jet even through the builder said I would NOT need anything above 350. 8th... do some needle adjustments because I have not done any yet 9th if it still does it, sell the bike to a kid that does not know anything and dont let him ride it down the street. j/k. What I would really do it take it to a shop and pay out the A$$ for some tuneing.

Please inform me on how to check for a faulty stator. I e mailed Ricky Stator and they said to ship the item back and they will replace it. I want to make sure it is faulty before I waste time shipping it back. Is there any ways to be 100% sure that its faulty, or maybe just not working right, because the bike does start and the lights work well because it is a 200 watt stator with attached adjustable timing plate. Tonight im going to measure and make sure the pickup coil is with .020" to .030" from the "nub" on the flywheel as I was informed to check.

LOL>>>>>>>>>>> Okay I start making the titles shorter!!!!!!!!!! =) I'll post up tonight if I have time to do a plug chop and all that. My jet ski is getting its 10 hour service done and I have to drive after work in mad traffic to pick it up so I don't know if I'll have time, I also need to purchase a hack saw. Yeah I have all the tools in and no hack saw. Imagine that.