Dgrey

Don't know yet =( He said I should be okay with 100 octane OR 110 mixed with 50% 91 octane which is the premium on the pumps here in San Diego. DAMNIT!!!! I don't have a compression check tool... I have read about it and they recommend getting a quality one. They are like $60 right? Maybe my brother will go in 1/2 with me on one because he needs one to because he is porting soon as well. So when I check the compression i'll be able to tell what type of gas to use?

Im stoked I can not wait to put the bike back together. Kevin Herr did the port work http://www.herrjugsracing.com/ He is recommending 350 - 340 -330 main jets - im also installing VF3 reeds and K&N pods instead of the single K&N and I have Toomey T-5's. Oh yeah installing a Noss Head w/ 19 cc domes and advancing timing to +6 should be good times. =) I have all the gaskets and everything that I need (hopefully) for the install. I hate having to run to the motorcycle shop once I start working on something and then they dont have it in stock or I have to drive far to a place that does and its a 2 hour adventure.

Sorry that is for rear only. I am keeping the fronts.

Sorry - United States only. You can find them here. Maybe the will ship to Australia! Sorry man! http://nebraskatire.com/atv/gear/sand_gear.htm Yes tires and rims $190 + shipping of course I have no clue what they will charge for shipping. I can find a box that they will fit in through. I'll ship UPS or FedEx I heard they are cheaper than the USPS.

But you can see them on my profile picture. I think they are the "standard" size they dont look big or small on the bike with the 4+ swing arm they look perfect. They have 3 trips on the sand and still have most of the nipples. I will sell for $190. I live in San Diego. I will also trade for some blue label douglas wheels and skat track haulers if you got em.

pro taper low bend standard size handle bars--$30 shipped Do they bolt directly to the factory mounts. Can you please send a picture of them to dgrey @ piteduncan.com and I will respond to you. I need handlebars.

LOL.. Dude, you live right behind Scribs! WTF I live off pepper like right down the street. What are you doing this weekend? If you are bored I am probably getting my Jugs back from Kevin on Friday evening or Saturday morning and if you want to come lend a hand - or just drink beer with us - then let me know. I also have clutch springs, reeeds, spacers, K&N pods, and a noss head w/ 19cc domes to install. Good times!

I was told that I could re-use the side gasket... damn should I really get a new one??? I want an OEM one if I do. The bike is a 2005 with only about 25 hours on it so its still pretty damn new. Kickstarter is not jingling. Im glad herr does good work! I was looking at those EX pull levers, but I dont have the $ for that type of thing at this moment I have a vacation coming up at the end of the month. Ahhh Laughlin (lake Mead) here I come. No boss, no clock, no dress code, no shirt, no shoes, no problems on a private beach with my beautiful wife. All the parking brake sh*t was removed when I installed the +4 swinger. Damn I forgot I still need to invest in some haulers and some douglas blue labels. I need to ditch the tires I have now they wont work well for hill shooting, but the kick ASS in the dunes.

Well I know there are 6 I just through the pack would have come with 3 and that I would keep 3 stock ones. Who is doing the port work: http://www.herrjugsracing.com/ Kevin Herr What kind of riding do you do: Duneing and hill shooting with my friends and others @ Gordon's Well How much do you weigh: I weigh 220 Sweet... I'll use 3 HD ones and 3 stock ones. Is is a pretty easy job to do? Easier than changing out the stator (which was not hard) Im just trying to compare it to something. I pulled the head and jugs off myself as well.

I have a question. I was recommended to "at least" put in stiffer clutch springs because im getting a port job done and going from a milled head to a noss head w/ 19 cc domes. So, I went and bought the springs today. I through that the package came with THREE and I would just install three (1 stock - 1 HD Spring - 1 stock etc.) but the package has 6. The package does not say how much stiffer they are over stock. Do you guys think that I should install all 6 of them or only 3? The guy where I bought them said to install all 6. Let me know!

Alright well on top of everything else that im getting im going to invest in some HD Clutch springs. I hope that a motorcycle shop around here has them in stock so I can do it while the coolant and oil is all out of the engine. Im also going to ditch the tires that are on the bike in my profile and switch to a 20x11x10 hauler 8 cup strait paddle. Is this type of tire still DUNE friendly when I ride or should I get the ones that have the v cut instead of the strait cut paddle?

Okay well there is no notch in the timing key that was in there so I assume its the stock one. I just dont want to have it in there advancing my timing 3 degrees THEN I set the timing plate to plus six then have a total of plus nine no the timing and FUCK up the bike. Ya know? Apparently ALBA ripped off the guy I bought the bike from because he said it had a plus 3 timing key installed by alba when he bought the bike bran new. Whatever!

I can not tell the difference from the aftermarket timing key and the stock timing key. If I had an aftermarket timing key would I be able to tell the difference?

I don't think my parents are willing to give up the golf cart for free. When they sell it they are going to pay off the rhyno that is their plan. About the timink key I was just wondering if the stock one looks like an aftermarket or if something is different about it that can not be seen with the naked eye. Reason being when I bought the bike the dude said it had a PLUS 3 DEGREE TIMING KEY. When I took off the fly wheel it looked EXACTLY like the STOCK timing key that I had right next to me that I bought from ALBA for like $1.75. I was just wondering if the aftermarket timing key looks like the stock one or if maybe the after market timing key goes in a different spot that I can not see. Damn I hate timink keys and the drama they bring. I think that the port man will have my jugs ready by next weekend (August 17th) so im stoked about that I think I may take it in to have it dyno tuned. I still have the TORS sh*t on my stock carbs, but its unplugged. I don't feel like paying 100 extra dollars for a TORS eleimination kit when it works fine as it is, ya know? Also I dont feel like testing the bike 100 times over to get the correct jetting. AND I kind of want to know how much horse power the beast has after all the mods. I need to be able to big my friends 2005 YFZ 450. He got pipes and a filter and that thing hauls a$$, but i DONT think he will be competition anymore after the port and what not. FINALLY, the glory will be mine. =)

Okay I just sent you a PM asking what type of gas you were running, but I see what type here so no need to respond to the pm! Umm so can I completely TAKE OUT the timink key that is in the shaft under the flywheel and just adjust timing by the plate? Are you saying that I do not need the 1/2 moon shaped piece in the shaft anymore? and in response to "is that your golf cart" no that is my parents golf cart. My banshee was over there on Christmas Day because that is what my wife got me for Christmas. The golf cart is actually for sale if you are interested its also street legal in 25 zones or less. The bought a rhino and dont care for the "slow" 2 wheel drive golf cart anymore. My brother and dad also have banshees.

+ I had one on my other bike for years and never had any problems. It worked great!

I heard that they helped with performance. Some say the help and some say they dont. I'll just put em on and hope for the best. I will not really be able to tell how much they did actually help because of all the other modifications im doing at the same time.

Okay I have the flywheel off (no biggie after I read this) BUT I have another question. My bike has a timing key that advances the timing 3 degrees. Does that timing key come off when i take out the stock stator? Meaning is it still attached somewhere? I have no clue where it is located and I have looked all around in there. I want to leave the timing key in at plus 3 degrees and set the timing plate at zero. Please provide info!

When I do finally get off (after someone tells me how to use this tool) do I need to put it back together in any certain way or position? Im sure the bolt holes will line up. It has an adjustable timing plate on the stator, but im setting it to 0 because I have a 3+ timing key already.

Is this how the tool works? am I doing it correct? Im trying to install a ricky stator.

Are you recommending that I get a stronger clutch? What is wrong with the stock one? Thanks for the tip about jugg gaskets and I'll do the clutch cover gasket as well and all the gaskets that I break the seal of. I had to buy a torque wrence for this project that has not even started yet. I hope its not that much of a pain in the ass. Alba Action (a moto store close to where I live) says that after bike is ported and the horse power that comes out to the clutch will not last. Is that something else I should buy? Its a 2005 and only has a MAX of 25 hours and only the small mods listed in my signature.

That is a good mix 40-1 is to much oil

K&N are good filters. I have used them on every vehicle that I have ever owned (all ran perfect AND for years actually never had one vehicle break down on me) and I use them on my quad and my father and brother use them with no bad efects. Do not over oil the K&N it says it right on the package and on the recharge kit. The filters that require no oil I do not trust. That is mostly how the K&N works so good is because it traps the small stuff in the oil and the large stuff in the netting. I woule suggest you take your bike somewhere to get looked at. If you are taking it through huge mud puddles then I don't know what to say other than you should have bought a 4 stroke for that. I ride in the dry deserts only and would never take my bike through mud, but to each his own.

K&N are good filters. I have used them on every vehicle that I have ever owned (all ran perfect AND for years actually never had one vehicle break down on me) and I use them on my quad and my father and brother use them with no bad efects. Do not over oil the K&N it says it right on the package and on the recharge kit. The filters that require no oil I do not trust. That is mostly how the K&N works so good is because it traps the small stuff in the oil and the large stuff in the netting. I woule suggest you take your bike somewhere to get looked at. If you are taking it through huge mud puddles then I don't know what to say other than you should have bought a 4 stroke for that. I ride in the dry deserts only and would never take my bike through mud, but to each his own.

Okay so I have all the parts now and im going to start the project tomorrow. I have in the garage 1. Noss head with 21 cc domes 2. 200 watt Ricky stator with adjustable timing plate (which im going to set at 0 because I already have a +3 degree timing key) 3. V force 3 reeds and reed spacers. 4. K&N filter PODS that the porting guy recommended for HIS specific port job Tomorrow im going to 1. drain coolant (I bought a "quick drain" piece and I have not looked at it so I don't know where it installs but it says it drains coolant quicker) its a plate with a screw 2. drain oil (its used anyways and needs to be drained) 3 take the stock milled head off and sell to my brother for 1/2 the price of a head mill in exchange for his stock head (just in case) whatever 4 install the 200 watt stator and plate and set to 0 becaue of the 3 degree timing key 5. remove the stock cylinder and take it in to get ported. 6. after port job re install ported cyliner (do I need new gaskets or something I have never removed one before!) 7. Install noss head with 21 cc domes 8. reinstall all parts with new A. noss head and 21cc domes B. port job. C. 200 W. Stator and timing plate set to 0. D. V force 3 reeds and spacers and E. K&N filter pods (which before I had a K&N single filter and air box lid removed and its for sale if anyone wants it. Does anyone have any more tips on how to make this easy or things to look for? I feel like is a LOT of work to be done to 1 bike in a 2 week span. I will for SURE need re jet the carbs. I think I may take it in to have it dyno tuned, but the wife is alreay mad enough that I have bought all this crap, but she says she wants me to beat all the dudes that I ride with. I can't really win here. Its okay through because I've done enough overtime in the past week to cover 3 people. Damn well I appreciate the help on this forum. Im sure after this install and the work im doing i'll be helping another victim of the mod fanatic!