edgehanger
Members-
Posts
206 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by edgehanger
-
Yea. No leaks at all. That sounds like a possibility. maybe got some dirt in there. Didn't get a chance to look at the plugs either because they were gone before my buddy brought me the bike.
-
Ran real good and solid for about 8 months then lost compression. i mean i know its detonation..but why all of a sudden?
-
WHat is it man...spit it out
-
Thing is there is no pitting in the head at all but the piston is ate up. No air leaks. Cylinder on that side also has little to no compression. I thought maybe timing plate moved or something but its only on one side. Also see some scuff/seizure marks in cylinder. Also thought it was a ring but no pitmarks in head so i doubt it. About to remove cylinder and see what i can find. But i don't wanna fix it till i know exactly what caused this.
-
Thats the first thing i do on a fresh build. Go through all the gears and then have at it. I've never seen a 5th gear weld though i have seen them break
-
You say the leak is so rapid you can hear it? Well by it being so rapid you would have to stop that leak t=before you can find any other leaks. If it won't hold pressure at all that leak should be easy to find. Are you saying you can hear it but can't find it?
-
I had a banshee not to long ago rattling and knocking kinda like that...turned out to be the piston skirts. Bike still ran and never locked up. Not saying thats your problem but take the cylinder of and take a look. Maybe thats your flywheel...see if you can swap flywheels with some one.
-
Use a carb sync tool or try those little windows on the side of the carbs. If you got the tors removed use the screws on top of the carb tops to adjust. If tors are on use the idle screws and/or the adjuster either on top of tors or inside tors. i can't remeber as i haven't messed with tors in awhile
-
Put your hand over back of carb and kick. If everything is fuctioning properly gas should come up through the carb and will get on your hand. The back of the carb where the air filter goes. The piston stroke pulls air and fuel through the carb and if your hand is covering it, it will pull only fuel. Only keep your hand there for a couple kicks then check to see if fuel was pulled into carb. The reeds open and close as the piston makes it's strokes. If a petal is not working right it will not suck gas into the cylinder right. The piston comes down and force fuel/air through transfers. If the reeds don't close then you're blowing some of that mix back through the intake.
-
You said you lost 3 psi in 5 minutes? I think thats too much. I thought you weren't suppose to lose more than 1 psi in 6 minutes. Also sounds like a fuel/carb problem. You said you were 100,000% percent sure the bowls are on the right carb and the choke tube is connected right? With those giant pilots thing should start with half a kick. Couple things you could try. When its cold try to start it with out using choke. If no start try using no choke and holding throttle wide open. If it starts then your jetting is too big. Also try to start it with air filter removed and hold your hand over back of carb. This should force gas up through the carb and it should start. SHouldn't take more than 2 kicks before your hand is wet. If it starts like this with no problems then you are not getting the proper fuel delivery or its that air leak. Do this on both carbs unless it starts when you do it on one. If fuel doesn't get on your hand check the reeds.
-
Check carb and reed. If all checks out do a compreesion check. If compression is good do a leak down.
-
200 ? Im asumming you got stock carbs? Thats way too small for your mods even if its 90 degrees out. Can't be rich. You have to have another issue
-
pros and cons of cylinder replating. ($0.02 welcome)
edgehanger replied to CAJUN BANSHEE's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Replate stock cylinders? You mean re-sleeve? -
Yea i think i know the guy that put this motor together. He's supposed to be "one of the best". Think im going to give him a call and ask him wtf. I betcha a dollar to a doughnut he says he has no idea what im talking about and blames it on someone else. I really need to know the purpose of the wrist pin being welded.
-
Dam Mark, how can you come to a banshee website and bad mouth a banshee and then try to sell us something for a banshee at the same time? You do realize this place is full of banshee fans right? Genius marketing strategy right there. Anywho where the dam testes, tesses, taste test..........show me 8hp gain and all is forgiven.
-
In the pic the plugs look burnt black to me. They are the wrong color. If those plugs are bone dry then i would go up a jet or two. You say its running better than ever? The bike will run real good slightly lean until the piston melts.
-
i chipped away the jb weld to see what was under there. Im afraid if i leave it in it might come loose. The wrist pin moves freely. I think it will come out im just so confused as to why the welds in the wrist pin and only on one side. I hope i don't have to get new cases when and if i remove the jb weld. Afraid of what i might find under there.
-
Its a t-rex. 10 mil. Yea base gasket job is piss poor. You should see the spacer plate. It has 2 base gaskets and a spacer plate. Case has not been port matched. I plan to take it apart and re do it. 72 mm bore. rod has 30L on it. Guy sold this motor to a friend of mine cause he thought it was junk. Ran like a ported stock motor. I plan to bring it back to life. Yea they do looked trenched right there. I thought that was excessive silicone at first. Is that jb weld safe? Afraid it might come loose.

