edgehanger

I know the pilot might be too small but it still wouldn't explain the left side running so different. As for my leak tester, its the home made kind with the rubber plugs that go inside of the intakes and exhaust with one side having the gauge and the other side having the hose with the bulb that i got from the drug store to pump it up with. I will definitely pressure test the coolant system and i didn't check the cylinder surface to be flat. I will post my findings. Thanks for the help

Yea I'm going back in to get about 15 to 20 more ponies so I can be looking more like mike. I couldn't get the jets dialed in like I wanted before the tranny broke a gear. I'm happy but, I can be much happier and I know it. I have a well built 71mm 4mil cub too that runs great but compared to the 535...for get about it.

So I rebuilt this stock motor and for some reason the left side is showing a lean condition both at idle and WOT. I can only come to two possible conclusions which are either it has an air leak that the leak down test is not showing or something is wrong with this cylinder and i'll tell you why I suspect the latter. Background of the motor: Engine had to be rebuilt because it overheated real bad and completely sprayed piston everywhere in the engine on the left side. I thought it was just a blown head gasket because I see the paint removed from the cylinder on the outside where the water seems to came out and ran down. one of the worst I've seen. So I go with fresh bore, wisecos, hot rods crank, new seals/ gaskets. pretty routine stuff at this point. On idle the right plug is wet, the left plug not so much. Take it for a little blast and right side is rich with a dark brown/blackish plug, left side looks lean with a hot looking greyish/black plug. Bike starts and idles fine, No bogging, sounds good, runs good, no back firing but it does sputter a little from the big jets I put in trying to figure out what gives. Seems to fall of the pipe a little at times. I know it won't last long like this. I took cylinders back off and the left cylinder looks like its been ran awhile, already removing some of the hash marks like it's wanting to seize, right side look brand new. Mods: No porting, pro circuits, k&n filter, airbox with lid no snorkel, stock carbs, VF2'S, 320 mains should be too rich, 25 pilot, carbs are synced, everything else stock. Stock needle, clip in the middle . What I've done so far: Swapped reeds from VF2 to stock, Swapped heads, swapped carbs, swapped pipes to fmf, verified water pump is working right, rejetted, numerous leak down test and it passed with flying colors, ran it with snorkel on at which point it wouldn't even get out of it's own way(too rich), compression test (about 135 both sides warmed up). Still left side is leaner than the right. Only thing left to swap is the cylinder. Questions: Could it be leaking air only when it's running? Did the cylinder overheat so bad that it has some damage I can't see causing a lean condition? Water not circulating good on the left side? I've seen about three mysteriously lean bikes that passed leak down test but it is usually lean on both sides evenly with no air leaks so we just give it the bigger jets that it ask for and run it. Ever seen anything like it? Can electrical cause a lean condition/overheating or detonation excluding timing?

I love my 535. It was done by Brad Tyson with PV blocked off. Made about 99 hp on race gas with 39's and shearer oof. That was awhile back though so im looking for more this go round. Plan on going to M1. Mine is used for 8th mile asphault only so I don't need the PV's. Curious about the pvl setup on the 535 though. Anybody ever ran one on their 535 and is it worth it?

I bet the bowls are mixed up. The bowl for the "choke Carb" is different from the other. The one for the choke side has a jet in it.

This is some great info. Thanks everyone! ^^^^lol cam approved

I've yet to figure out where those round paper gaskets go. Just an fyi...with the cheap namura paper gaskets you better hope you don't have to take it back apart to repair an air leak or anything because if you do those gaskets will probably rip to pieces. Next time spend the extra money to get cometic, its worth it.

Yea those new vito's look a bit more beefy around the rods in comparison to other cranks. Has a good price too and it comes welded.

Yea I get that @tricked. I think the stock port angles are aimed in ideal directions as far scavenging but, there is much room for improvement. I just didn't wanna raise the windows and have the directions all out of wack flowing in 8 different directions and creating all kinds of short circuits. I want to make both cylinders as identical as possible. For some reason the quotes aren't showing up

thanks. I been trying that since it was suggested to me this morning and its working.

No. Im trying to raise my port timings and keep the exact same roof angles of the stock ports. As well as start to play with different roof angles and match all the port roofs so the angles are identical in the cylinders. Any suggestions?

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-rule-gauge-65339.html So is there some kind of technique or special angle finder to measuring the roof angle of the ports? Been searching the net and can't seem to find any specific how to's. I can measure the boost port angle with a protractor/angle finder with no problem because it is steep enough but, I haven't seen an angle finder that would get in the transfers enough to make an accurate measurement. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. .

would like to see pics of the crank.

F.A.S.T. Does some pretty good work at a pretty decent price. Give them a call. Jeff will answer any questions you might have. Btw where are you located?

If you lowered the jetting and it still fouls plugs and you're mixing at 50:1, it sounds like a bad spark to me. Check to see that you have a nice fat blue consistent spark. Check the coil gap between the flywheel.

pm sent on crank

I like the cylinders. Do you need a swingarm?