edgehanger

Say you snagged a ring or seized one? I can't remember. Anywho, with a port that wide there should be a pretty generous chamfer. A coolant leak will seize rings. When you put the head on make sure the orings stay in place and don't get pinched. Use a little vaseline or sometimes i use a little glaze of sealant to hold them. First thing i do on a rebuild is figure out why it popped. First thing i do after rebuild is heat cycle with the radiator cap off to verify that the coolant is circulating and not blowing bubbles as i give it a few light blips on the throttle. Always check ring end gap and never start the engine without a leak down test first. I've seen brand new seals leak before. The plugs and pistons from the old engine would tell you how it was running and the jetting. I don't add extra oil to the mix on break in. With the extra oil you are effectively leaning the jetting. A coat of oil on the cylinder walls and oil on the rings is enough. 32 to 1 ratio is plenty of oil. Snapping or seizing a ring 15 minutes on a fresh build is probably either that wide port or coolant leak. Hope this helps Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

It's that simple ehh?

What's a good resource to use to see if any particular atv or dortbike you intend to buy is stolen or not before you buy it? I know you can have the police check it but sometimes the owner is unsure and not willing to go that route. Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

You either don't have a choke bowl or the choke bowl is on the wrong carb or the choke circuit is clogged. Some bikes will cold start with out choking. Most will not. Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

You should've swap carbs too. Pilot could be clogged if you say once you get on it the other side starts working. If it's fouling plugs could be the pilot jet has fallen out or been left out and passing to much fuel Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

I might be interested in the head and cylinders Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Easy there big fella. I misread it. Shit happens. So how much? Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

What are you going to be asking for it and who did the porting? Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

I double posted by mistake Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Why .052? How did you come up with that? Not doubting you, im just curious Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

What are you basing the .052 of off? I'm not doubting you or anything i'm just curious. Is this for a certain setup, dome design or fuel type? Of course we have seen motors that absolutely rip with much tighter squish but i've never been able to play around with squish on a dyno or anything. fastest stock cylinder i seen ran .035 squish but it was a drag bike Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Why so big on the mains with the lid on? Are the golden series that much different from the sst and fatty? Is it the vf4's? Got some port work? 300 main sounds rich to me on a stock bike with the lid on Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Thanks Brandon. I know the cranking compression doesn't tell me what octane to run like many here believe. The plugs look good and no signs of detonation. I just didn't want that much pressure on this daily driver play bike that's all. The head i sent was a POS and you did an amazing job on it. I've seen alot of "cleaned up recut" heads. This one is top knotch. I might still swap this head and save for a more special build in the future Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Yep crank welded. I'm kinda disappointed with the high compression. not what i wanted but the head was mucked up pretty bad so i guess mull had to take alot off to clean it up. Im seriously considering swapping it for a cool head with big bore domes. I really want it lower. Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

I got almost the exact same set up. Fmf K&n filter no lid with outerwear 0 timing mull pump gas head cut to 66.50. Stock porting 280 mains 30 pilot at sea level Stock carbs. Throttle response is outstanding. Sun of a bitch is kicking at 175 psi though. Im running 93 pump gas until the engine tells me not too. So far no sign of excessive heat on the plug Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Yes. The little arm with the spring that touches the shift star. Take it off then spin the shift star with your hand. It should go through all the gears without much force. You will have to spin the transmission as you turn the star. Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Take the shift star stopper off, put the transmission back in and you should be able to go through all the gears pretty smoothly. If it hangs up while doing this then the offending part should be easy to spot. With both tranny shafts removed, the drum and the forks should all move freely Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

What are your thoughts trickedcarbine?

If it's aluminum it doesn't look like it was cast with the cases. Mine had moisture coming from it.

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x336/edgehanger/DSCN4306.jpg What's this?

Yea. Look up under the cases, there are 4 spots right up under where the crank sits. It's either epoxy or some kind of glue.

I don't think the cases are damaged. The cases come epoxied from the factory so, I think it has just worn out in that spot so I'm going to re-epoxy it and check for leaks.

Well it turns out that there is an air leak that can't be detected with a 6 or 7 psi leak down test. The bottom crank case has 4 spots on the bottom that have epoxy in them and they can leak. I remember talking to jeff at fast a while back about these when he told me that they re-epoxy these. So I happened to just look under the bike checking for any kind of leaks and as I shine my light under the engine I see a wet spot that shouldn't be. It was right at the epoxy under the left side of the case. So I wipe everything clean and go on a couple blast and re-check it and sure enough it's wet again and it smells like gas. I'm going to put some epoxy over it and see if it improves.

So I got the tester on it and it holds at 12 to 14 psi but it slowly creeps. Manual says it should holp for at least a minute, it doesn't drop a full psi in that minute but it does creep. So I warm it up and re-test it and no change. I crank it with the tester on and I can see the needle move but not bouncing around. I zing it up and the needle fluctuates a little up and down. I know as the engine heats that the pressure will rise but if I zing it up the needle drops then raises back up as it heats up. Is this just the coolant moving around in the system or it shouldn't be doing this? When I tore it down the bike had overheated so bad that both of the rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinder were fried like they had been in an oven. I mean shriveled up and broken, completely useless. When I was cleaning the melted piston and carbon out the exhaust I went ahead and hit both exhaust with some 80 grit drum rolls and grinding stones and a little emory cloth with my slotted mandrel, trying to be careful not to remove much material but just to smooth it out after the scratches I put in it while cleaning. Could this be the issue?