edgehanger

How much for the wiring harness with stator and cdi box?

Leak test the motor buddy. Leak test the motor buddy. Leak test the motor buddy

Someone correct me if im wrong but wouldn't a 68 mm bore be an aftermarket cylinder? Ok we gone need some pics or something

<a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html">flexshaft motor</a>

Been running mine at 160 ish psi with no welded crank and a port job for about 3 yrs now with no issues but i would weld it for sure if i ever took it back a part. Trust me you would hate for that crank to come back and bite you in the ass later on. I hate pro design cool heads. Go with a one piece design with less orings like the vito's

Silver plastics look good. Are those oem or painted? Hell yeah for $1200 you pretty much stole it.

Yea same thing happen to me. Some one stole my shee and blew it up then took it to a shop to be fixed, which is where i recovered it. Did this in one week lol At least you got it back. Yea so somebodies been raping your motor for sure. go head and pull the cylinders and see if that missing rod damaged anything else when it let go. If not then you're just going to have to get another crank and pistons, along with a bore and hone. So how did you end up finding it?

lol where the pistons at?

No but seriously, i mean since i brought it back to the top lemme ask, has any one ever seen or tried the flex shaft motor from harbour freight? Looks just like a foredom and is only like 50 bucks. 1/4 hp and 15k rpm's. Was wondering if it would do the job.

This thread is awesome and it should never die lol.... I read all 20 pages. You can't buy this kinda of entertainment. All over some port work. BANSHEEHQ BITCHES lol

Figured out how to post pics yet? I wanna see the crank.

No they are not the same but have the same dimensions from what i've read.

Any luck yet?

Does it sputter? Bog down? I would guess electrical

lol i figured as much. If they were interchangeable then why would they go through the trouble of making them look different right? You guys ever heard of anyone trying it though? I was about to put it on til i noticed that it was a tranny bearing.

So they sent me a countershaft bearing instead of a crank bearing. The dimensions are the same but the numbers and inner race is different.Oem crank bearing is "hic 83406" and the tranny is a "nsk 6305N". Crank has 7 balls oem and the countershaft has 8. Countershaft has a thicker inner race as well. Just wonbering if anyone has ever tried this. i really don't feel like waiting for another bearing to show up.

Clean the fuel petcock...ive seen those get pretty gummed up from sitting around too long

look like the crank either took a dump and took everythink on that side with it or the piston skirt shattered and took the crank out and evertything with it. Yes its worth rebuilding imo. If you can find a known good replacement engine for a good price then that would be an option as well because if you let a shop do it you might come out around the same price which is around a grand give or take.

And of course you have all tors and parking brake wires unpluged right?

Recommend a clymers manual. First off unplug all tors connections and the parking brake switch. Brake switch is that wire coming from the clutch handle. The tors include the two yellow and black wires coming from both carb tops. There is also a wire coming from the throttle and a little box on the left side of the frame under the gas tank as mentioned above. unplug all of this and there is a good chance you will have fire. If not then trace the entire wiring harness and check for burnt wires and wires that may have grounded to the frame or pipes.If still nothing then its time to break out the ohm meter.