edgehanger

Mines had always sounded like it had marbles in the pipe. its awesome Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

I've had a leak drive me crazy before that I couldn't find. I was so frustrated that I submerged damn near the hole engine in water. Turned out that it was the seam on the boost bottle. I've seen leaks hide in between the cylinders at the base gasket. Check where the intake screws go in, on the back side of the cylinder, those are hard to spot sometimes.

Did you leak test it yet? Be sure not to skip this part

No, only an 18mil triple will do for the trails, a dm would barely break the tires loose in a mud hole. You will also need a side by side to trail you with a 55 gal drum of meth to refuel. Anything less will be uncivilized

Is the bike giving you any problems? I don't think you're supposed to test it with caps on, maybe that's why the high reading. If it aint broke don't fix it

Could be possibly leaning out due to all the oil hence the bog. Drain the gas. mix 32 to 1 should scream through all 6 gears, no bog, no sputter, no popping

I've ran the led bulbs before without issue other than they flicker alot on idle

Why you say that? is it the shipping or their products?

It's stuck? Start over then and this time make sure the motor shifts through all the gears before you put it all back together. Take it back apart

I like the new vitos cranks. they come welded and are priced decent

Which side is smoking more? What about the stator? Is it OEM ? I see you have a boost bottle pushed all the way down in the boots with OEM clamps. That's an almost guaranteed air leak there. Did you leak test it? I wouldn't fool with a boost bottle at all but f you have no choice then get some hose clamps from the auto parts store and use them instead but most importantly you need to leak test it asap. I would be surprised if there is no leak at the bottle

No. Don't run extra oil for break in. Assuming you put a little oil around on the rings on assembly 32:1 is plenty of oil. You might have noticed a oil pooling in the cases when you did the top end. People break engines in different, me personally I prefer putting a load on the engine as soon as possible after a couple short heat cycles

Yep. OHM meter and visual checks. Check the pilot jets and make sure the float bowls are on the right carbs

Sounds like electrical to me. If you have an aftermarket stator or CDI box then I would start there. Swap out with a buddies OEM stuff and see if that solves it. Also check the plug caps and wires. Take the caps of and shake them, you shouldn't hear anything. Make sure the orange and black wires are snug on the coil and not dancing around as you ride

Welp since this problem seems to be solved, let me do a little thread jacking. Hey sleeper, if set up properly, can I run 35 blowdown, stock cylinder, stock stroke, CPI's +4 timing on pump gas (93) without any issues?

BTW it's Cascade that makes the pancake bearing with the longer adjustment screw

You can use the stock adjuster screw from the OEM one you have now. Just take it out and thread it in the pancake bearing but, sometimes the stock screw can come up a little short and not adjust just right which is why chariot is better because it comes with a longer one. You can make the stock one work though you might have to flip the pancake bearing around the other way to have enough thread on the adjuster screw to get the lock nut on depending on how long the little billet part is. I put a little blue Loctite on the screw when I do it because I have seen them come off

The pancake bearing is aftermarket. You don't have to buy it but if you weld that rod and ball you're going to cry in the car i promise. When you fill with coolant just let the bike idle for a few minutes with the cap off and it will purge itself Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Oh yea that too. Vitos, modquad or fast use the stock head studs too. Pro design has a million orings and uses longer head studs which all equal a PIA so skip the pro design Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

You can order the head from ebay or check the for sale section here. The head isn't special it's the domes that make the magic happen. We recommend chariot because they look good, have less orings to deal with, will accept the the more common domes and are widely available. There are other brands that will accept the same style dome like modquad, vitos, fast, pro design Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Goes on the pressure plate, it replaces the stock clutch adjuster with one that has a package bearing. Most modern bikes have them, the banshee one is outdated and welding a rod and ball is quite common. The pancake bearing will reduce your chances of this happening. Do a quick search and you'll see what I mean. Type in "banshee pancake bearing " Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

Get a pancake bearing for the clutch while you have it apart. The rod and ball can weld together and mushroom and you might have to split the cases again to get it out. I think the chariot ones are the best ones to get

I wouldn't trust some random seller advertising "pro design style XXcc banshee domes" on ebay. Driveline and noss seem to get the domes out pretty quick from my experience with them and will cut them anyway you like. Give sleeper your specs and you should last at least 30 minutes this go around if you don't skip the leak down test this time

513 pistons have a 13 degree rise. Your domes have a 12 degree rise. You need to get a chariot head because trinity heads will only accept a trinity dome and I don't think you can get a dome from trinity anymore nor would you want one. Contact driveline or noss to get proper domes cut. Tell them you have 513's. You need to know your deck height so you can get the proper squish you want/need. Most off the shelf domes have .030" step cut for stock stroke

I don't see a chamfer on the ex port. Piston looks like it's been washed clean Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk