fastrthnu

I dunno if that 35mm single will be big enough. Ill check into it, but Id rather that cos these big ass carbs and filters are to close to my pipes and I want to make a mud shroud and a single filter will be easier to cover. Id like to use the 2-1 with a 38mm. I think imma do some tricks with my exaust and run some tm-34 flatslides or somthin. some 30`s would be nice other than the monster I have. these things look like fuckn 40mm`s.

dude just fix your shit and build a separate drag bike frame up you can take your time on and still have a badass play quad. then you wont be down long either. If your goin to build a drag bike, you might as well make it a DRAG BIKE rather than a fast somewhat trail/somewhat drag. Make a rocket.

how far in are your air screws? You can lean out the needle a bit moving the clip on it closer to the blunted end and see if that helps. you main should be about right. might wanna check your compresion too, maybe a higher octane would be a good idea. you cant really tell your condition unless you use new plugs and chop em. search plug chop. I dont want to type that much.

Dude, them pilots are to big. try the 27.5 2 turns out on the air screws. I think mine where still 25, but you should be good with 27.5.Sounds like you have a leak somewhere or a clog. them 350 mains make that bitch scream huh :cool: I shouldnt be down much longer. A few more weeks Ill be done. Im going to mail my jugies to passion for bore/hone/chamfer, and pistons. I seen on their website its all under $300 and he did the porting on em anyways. Imma do a polish on em too and maybe trade in my rockets for some pt high revs

electrician, or mechanic. which ever has work available.

you have the flywheel lightning about right. I have mine done. Shaving the head for compression and advancing your timing about +4-5 degrees are good cheap mods.

you should check it may or may not need to be changed,. it might have been in the same elevation but jetted in the summer,. ect. at 1100` maybe a 300 main. Depends on your air induction too, if it has an air lid stil installed, off, filter type, or just plain pods. If you know more about it, some can help out. and your temperature. Im assuming its unported. Air gets thinner at higher altitudes, so runnig leaner jetting than lower alts is needed. Colder air contains a denser oxygen molecule content,. so more fuel is needed to not run lean. In heat air expands and less molecules enter needing less fuel mixture if you get my drift.

the guy got it. nobody is actually going to put nitromethane in their banshee. Maybe its just a wonder in my head why someone whould consider using 100 octain on a stock bike. Overkill was the hidden message.

who me? I REALLY dont expect anyone would actually use that. Was sorta sarcastic. Sorry, still be my friend? Im frustrated so Im taking it out on alot of innocent bistandards. please dont use any CH3NO2. Id consider it more an explosive than a fuel.

the service manual says to use 20:1 fuel to oil. :biggrin: doesnt matter to me what you use.

I know someone like that here that has been on here for like a year has 40,000 fucking posts always has some dumb fuck shit to say, had absolutly 0 knowlege of banshees and is now the fucking knowledge king by repeating other responces, or gathered some info after reading through every single last goddamn post and making completly useless post ALL THE FUCKING TIME LIKE EVERYDAY!!!!!!!!!!!!! Im sure the shitdick will read this too, and then reply some stupid fucking wanna be witty remark like "geeeee Im fucking gay, lookat all the bs I fabricate, I like to suck cock, and boy hes angry lol" If I ever win the lottery, Im going to dedicate 1 day a month AT LEAST to finding the biggest retards on the internet, fly to see them and take all my frustrations Ive gathered for that month and beat them and then beat their mothers with my cock, and fuck their gf because big deuche bags usually somehow end up with hot girlfriends. Then take a shit on the banshee that probley doesn t work because they are such a fucking mechanical guru, and have pictures of the incomplete thing posted up all the time to show how glamourous the non functional shit on machine looks like.

put nitromethane in it.

alot of high quality oils can be run leaner 40:1-60:1 without any problem. If you run 50:1 I doubt youll need to change you jetting,. though if the bike has gone through a decent drop in temperature since last run, you might need a bigger jet due to the colder weather.

I have a ton of bottom end power as well as mid and top and its not a 4 stroke. :shrug:

Im not sayin it will ruin it by using an impact, but it can. its less likely to happen on something like this, but it happened to me before and I stopped usung them. Ive done it on these, 450`s dirtbikes, harmonic ballancers ect and fried quite a few. the worst was on a coil srping compressor for front coils on my old drag car. I guess Im just that strong doin it with wrenches is not a problem for me. Im sure if its not on there super tight and the woodruff key was level as it should be it would zip right off without damage. Ive also had to ruin lots of parts getting a flywheel off in a hydrolic shop press because it was wedged on so hard with a crooked key. you can make a cheater bar out of 2 cresent wrenches too putting an open end through a closed end. old backyard mechanic trick.

no need to bang anythng if its braked in place,. and btw I dont suggest using an imapct gun on a flywheel puller or any puller for that matter. use 2 wrenches or a ratchet and wrench.

Im pretty certain all stock banshees came with an adjustable rear shock where you can adjust the compression and spring tension.

Yea put it in 6th and have someone hold the rear brakes tight and losen it.

uhm. 10-30 sucks for one, and whats wrong with the bel ray hes using? please explain.....

could it just be the plates are sticking together? either from wear or oil condition.

Ive though t about doing this myself as well for a different reverse cylinder fitment. I Figured I would use an already existing pipe in the range I want and do measurements in 3/4" incraments all the way up it, and then follow the same incrament diameter pattern "traced" into my new configuration, just in a different shape. I figured this would make a good startng point. Just using the same taper in a different pipe shape. I have RZ cylinders as well and am very limited as it is to pipe selection.

when I do gap, I use a feeler gauge which are cheap and stick the ring square in the bore right before it overlaps any ports (about 5/8" from the top) and measure the gap. The minimum gap is already set for heat torrerance. Its alot safer to make it just a hair bigger though. The gap has a specific direction on each ring it should face (usually one opposing the other), and you ports all need to be chamfered. The tollerances for heated cylinders/piston clearances should be in the specs they come with where a feeler gauge can also be used to check without heating.

this is what and where it has to be able to clear...

Im thinking about trading off my rockets for some PT high revs but need to know if they will clear my rz pv conection on the left side of the left cylinger like the mids do. Also will these be sufficient for a 391cc 12port +4mm motor? I want to keep a good high rev but still improve my low end. The only reason I have these enormous pipes are to clear my PV and pt mids would choke this motor. They run more like a CPI. So basically that and anyone who has these, whats the clearance about from the side of cylinder to side of pipe? I imagine these would work fine since Duncan recommends them with their 403 motors.

I think they are over rated and over priced.