okbeast

Yes you can, but some say that messes with the dome shaping and how the fuel burns. At your point in the game probably not an issue.

Not really any parts of the clutch that are essential, but if things get worn out your clutch will slip or not disengage well. As for more bolt-ons I'd say an adjustable timing plate and coolhead would help out your whole power range. I happen to have a coolhead for sale :biggrin: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96190 Depending on your elevation and riding temps though you'd probably have to run race gas with the 18cc domes and get your crank welded. Otherwise the 22cc domes might suit you well.

When you lined up the arrows did you have the adjustment at the lever all the way in or all the way out (loose or tight)

I was gonna rag on you for drag racin a stock swinger, but i guess you covered that one already too

I'm also gonna lower the price to $135 shipped b/c of it coming w/ no orings and having the pipe mark on the side.

Ya I got that, but still you gotta chain shit up to a tree, car, fence, pole, dog, wife, anything

If i were you i'd buy a fuckin lock Do you usually leave your car in the driveway with doors open and keys in the ignition and a sign on it that says "PLEASE TAKE"?

I also forgot to take a picture of this, but the head does have the mark on it from where Shearer pipes rub. It won't show at all with inframe pipes but I just wanted to let ya'll know it is there.

Here's the pics. I'm havin more hell w/ my new motor this summer so I'm gonna wait just a few days on this. If everything works out for the new one this will sell, if not then... And i can't find the 22cc domes and 18cc 68mm domes, they must be at my buddies house but can get them if that's what you were wanting.

And what elevation would that be? lol

What's your elevation and temperature? Usually a 20 or 21 would be ok on "pump gas" 94 is a weird octane though.

I'm tryin to find a 4mm crank so i been gettin on ps using a buddies account. I see a thread where a guy is looking for someone in the Arizona area to do work. I"ll just let the posts do the talking. qmiler: "Anyone have any recomendations on engine builders in the Phoenix Arizona area? Looking for someone to finish a motor build, any past expiriences would be helpfull!" TitanRacing: "How close is Gilbert Arizona? Charlie Ohton is out there" qmiler: "Not a option, thank you for taking the time to reply." LOLZ, right in charlie's poopface. Wonder how long that'll be up. I"d like to recommend some other builders for him but OH NO, it'd get deleted faster then BigRed decided he hates the HQ.

Do you have a coolhead yet? http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=96190&hl= I'll work out a deal w/ ya on the head if Kevin thinks it'd work good w/ one of his portjobs (if Jeff gives me a discount on my cub :biggrin: ) lol

How much more for the axle locknut, just saw it in one of the pictures. Also do you have the adjustment tool for it?

Polished Trinity Stage IV head. Comes with a set of stock 18cc and 22cc domes and a set of big bore 19cc domes. Uses stock studs (has a special acorn style nut). Most of the o-rings are good, I got screwed when I bought this b/c he sent it with a ton of cut ones but a buddy had enough to cover most of those. There was one left-over that was cut but we just RTV'd it and it ran fine. I would recommend a new o-ring set though just to be safe. Asking $150 shipped OBO. Will have pics tonight or tomorrow. If I have already talked with you about this, PM me again and you'll be 1st in line.

i musta missed what happened awhile back that got jared up in a tiffy, someone got the cliffsnotes?

I think eastwoods.com has some, Sears has some small bars if you wanna just try it.

oh ya forgot about those. i will get back with you this evening on the reeds.

As soon as you get me the paypal i'll pay ya for the lever.

Got a buddy that has, he mx'd all his life and enjoyed it I think.

Well they usually don't come apart very easy as it is, kinda drag on the rotor constantly like all disc brakes do. It's gotta be somethin with the fluid not flowing back into the reservoir or through the master cylinder not letting it retract. at least that's the only thing i can see

new pads? is the rear a free floating system like the fronts. i can't imagine those rods being gummed up causing it to stick like this though. what does it do if you have it off the caliper and pump it up?

There's a Cycle Works (or Werks) in or around Forth Worth. I can't find the correct website right now.

hm, make sure the rubber thing inside the reservoir isn't getting sucked down and messing up the vacuum. other than that i always thought the system was pretty bulletproof

Need one asap