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okbeast

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Everything posted by okbeast

  1. Try using 3 stock springs and 3 HD springs, should hold up fine. And sweet bike, welcome to the HQ :thumbsup:
  2. If you mean 1.00 mm then yes. Stock bore is 64.00mm.
  3. Stock port, i'd say 33pwk's, or go ahead and get 35pwk's, really depends on what you wanna do w/ it I'd say.
  4. 150 would be safe w/ pump gas.
  5. I don't think it would that much. Personally i'd run it. if you want to raise the compressin some mill your stock head or get a coolhead (which i may have another one for sale soon). If you got the $$$ and are worried about it do a rebuild.
  6. No motor as of right now.... :biggrin:
  7. mothers ball and polish lol or hell use some pvc pipe, shit's cheap. out of the blue question, but wth kinda motor u running, im not sure ive ever heard, or is it top secret :ninja:
  8. I figured your ass could make somethin, lazy
  9. let me know the more oil could have caused it to seal off better. its an old trick i've heard of doing, but haven't heard if it works perfectly from application to application.
  10. Are both sides even? That is usually the main thing you want before doing a rebuild. If they're even they're usually ok, unless they are both way low. At 120 i would say you're ok. I see you're in teh DFW area, i live up in frisco. lmk if you need help w/ anything
  11. Clean the threads and squirt a little WD on it. mine did this recently too, just had some dirt in everything. You can look at the threads to see if they're jacked up.
  12. To get that reverse nut out find a bolt to fit it then use a pipe wrench. That's what I did.
  13. I need the filters, pics to [email protected]. And price shipped to 75034, thanks. Where are you located?
  14. Did you richen it completely, or just some? I've never heard of that needle, but am not too familiar with the pwk carbs. Hopefully someone will chime in that is. If not, do a search for pwk carbs, or pwk needles, or needle chart. something like that should get you pointed in the right direction.
  15. You probably thought it was fat when it was running bad in the midrange so you leaned it up right? I would try moving it to the middle or more to the bottom to give it more gas. Those are small carbs to run on a drag port and i would imagine it would want more fuel.
  16. Coolhead w/ small domes, small squish clearance. Also adding timing calls for high octane.
  17. You do that with feeler guages. If you don't have one I would recommend a Clymer's manual. It explains how to do all this. You can get one from FAST.
  18. You can pull the head and check the piston-wall clearance and your ring-end gap clearance. Try this, drop a few drops of 2stroke oil in the spark plug hole then kick it over to check compression and see if it goes up much from 120.
  19. That seems a tad high. Have you checked your squish clearance?
  20. wait, so with pipes and pods you need to rejet shit
  21. Hm, at the elevation around DFW I would think 120 could be possible, depending on the porting. After I had some porting done my compression was a bit lower then i thought it would be.
  22. I wouldn't run more than 6 or 7 if you're on it constantly. I mean even then it'd take just 1 time for it to go, but isn't that always the case...
  23. What do you use the bike for? If i was just dragging i'd put it on 10 probably lol. I'll probably run mine on 6 or 7 for a play 421.
  24. Is readyrod the same as all-thread? I don't believe it has the same tensile strength as a stud would.
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