okbeast

3 guys just told you it's normal dude, not tryin to hate but don't worry so much. And if the crank was wobbling enough to move the bearings enough to do that you've got bigger issues to worry about lol

haha, now that's funny. I hate to be a bubble buster, but i'm thinking it's gonna be more like 60-80 to ship everything. So 275 for the swinger, 100 for the carrier, and 80 to ship would be $455. I'm not too big on using paypal shipping overseas either. Not saying I don't trust you but they just make it too easy for ppl to get shit then get their $$$ back.

Well I hadn't planned on selling it, but I guess w/e the cost is to get one new. It would add quite a bit of weight to the shipping I would assume. Can you give me all the info I need to ship it to you and after thsi weekend I can run to get a quote. Do you know what the cheapest way would be to ship it over?

I can't believe people are trying to jew you down from that price.

No you will have to have a roundhouse carrier. It's alot different then stock, but so much easier to work with when adjusting the chain. You'll also need a longer chain (I can possibly send the one I have, it's gettin pretty old but still works) and a longer brake line. Some people say the stock brake line will work actually, I just never tried it.

Pretty sure those are normal. And dude that's perfect on the pistons IMO, you can even see where the mixture is burning and blowing out the exhaust...you worry too much man

I can't even imagine how much shipping would be to Belgium. Let me do some checking on that. And a carrier is what the axle goes through. The swingarm holds the carrier in place.

Get some yamabond or RTV and put it back together. Do a leakdown test after that. If it's leaking spray some soapy water all over everything. Pretty sure it's not coolant mixed with oil, like stated above that usually turns it grey/white

Coolant usually turns stuff white from what I've seen. That looks burnt or something, but it doesn't look like it was coming from anywhere around the crank. Now here's an idea, if the front of the motor wasn't sealed up correctly, I wonder if it could be oil leaking from your pipes and getting in there then appearing like it's leaking out of the motor.

ttt It's comin off this weekend and i'm gonna polish it up real good and take some more pictures.

Still need these. Also i sent you a pm john

pm sent.

How do you guys recommend doing it. Is a dremel gonna be enough tool to do it?

Not on a sand bar with knobbies :biggrin: But ya it'll feel like the motor is givin it all but you're not accelerating as fast as it should. Alot easier to tell if you get on pavement.

Passion did mine and I'm pretty sure there's a weld all the way around. Now I know different guys do it different ways, I was just saying.

Also interested in shifter. I got a price in mind but lmk how much for it. Well damn I want all the same stuff ^^^ does. Lmk if the water pump cover doesn't sell too.

Damn that's cheap, I"m guessing it runs?

When your clutches slip, or in my case when something smells burned adn the oil comes out black

Not true, if you have everything running right and jetted correctly it will not have to be 'cleaned' up every time you put around and want to accelerate.

Nothing really, unless you want to go to a stroker motor. If you do want to go to a 4mm you can send the jugs off and have them ported for the stroke. You will also need to get a coolhead and have domes cut for the extra stroke or have your stock head cut. Otherwise you could just send the cylinders off and have a low-mid port job done on them and you will notice quite a bit of difference.

Pretty damn good deal if they're worth a crap.

Porting the cylinders changes a ton of things, from the timing to the port specs, opens things up, etc. What kind of riding are you going to be doing? You have stock carbs that are bored?

haha, someone feels a 'lil defeated

Split the cases and reseal them.

I think anywhere from .040 to .050 or something like that.