okbeast

The YFZ is a roundhouse yes, as for length differences I'm not sure.

What mods do you have?

I'm surprised he can go down the road with the size of his egotistical head....

Man I want that plastic but it's a BITCH to ship it. Good luck with the partout :thumbsup:

Well here's what I do (did actually, just took off coolant bottle). If I ever emptied the radiator I would make sure everything is hooked back up, fill it up with coolant, leave the radiator plastic cover off and go warm the bike up good then come back, let it cool, and check the radiator. Rarely did I have any overflow into the reservoir and now it just drains at teh bottom of my frame, but I check it every once in awhile just to make sure. If you keep losing water for some reason there may be a problem elsewhere. I.E. overheating causing coolant to expand more than usual, leaking coolant into oil, etc.

I'm trying to tell him to make sure to check the radiator for water and not just fill the reservoir and hope it recirculates into the system. Just tryin to cover both ends to make sure his shit doesn't blow up, lol.

Well best of luck using it as a recirculating tank cuz chances are it aint gonna work. So if you're basing your engines cooling on that you're F'd.

Well I posted this in another one of your threads I think but here goes again. That reservoir is just that, a holding tank. It doesn't recirculate back to the radiator. All it is there for is to hold overflow from the radiator when it warms up and the coolant expands. Oh, and therefore you can't fill the radiator by doing that, you have to fill it through the cap on the top, which only takes about 20 seconds :thumbsup:

If by "res" you mean the plastic reservoir in the back all that really is is an overflow tank. It sounds like your bike is just getting hot and the radiator is expanding what coolant it can't fit in the radiator.

There's some websites you can find that info on...can't think of the url right now but try googling it.

Banshee spindles are cast iron I believe so they don't exactly bend easily (althought my buddies seems to have and we're stumped why).

I think the bottom ones can be replaced but not the tops.

The bike is in southern Oklahoma. Not sure how much to ask that's kinda why I started this thread. I know what I want but that's unnatainable, lol.

Need money right now for some stuff.

Been doin some thinkin and contemplatin sellin the bike. How much do you think I could pull out for it. I traded it for a 2000 400ex that was worth alot more IMO, I really regret doing it now but I guess we all make bad decisions. '98, T-5's, K&N pods w/ new outerwears, .040 milled head, renthal bars, polished aluminum bumper, flat black a-arms w/ new bushings and tight balljoints, new bearings all over, parking brake removed and block off, TORS removed, easy pull clutch perch, casesaver, adjustable timing plate, does need rebuild. I can't get on to photobucket but there's a pic of it in my sig and I'll put some others up later.

Not sure but I assume so b/c you can use the 'shee bolts and stuff on the YFZ arms I believe.

Man if it's worth the 3200 then go for it but gee for $1000 tops you could have a new stocker cut and PC'd and be competitive.

Well if you're kinda wanting to start small I'd recommend just cutting the stock frame down to lose some weight and go from there. I mean it doesn't seem like you're just 100% gotta have the best/top dollar stuff right now so I think the stocker would do you just fine.

I'd say you could probably build a base model for somewhere around 5-6k and it goes up to infinity from there pretty much. When you say you've got the motor do you mean a cub or something?

If it runs better at 1/2 a turn out I believe that means you need a bigger pilot. Try a 27.5 at 1-2 turns out and see how that does.

Did you look to see what size pilot jet was in the carbs when you cleaned them?

Hm, name doesn't sound familiar but I'm not from there so not many do. As for the chain jumping just make sure it's adjusted properly. I usually try to have about 1-1 1/2" of free play in it while not sitting on the bike. I'm not a very big guy either so I don't stiffen it out much. As for the splines between the axle and sprocket hub mine are completely worn out and my sprocket will rotate 1/4" freely and I still don't have chain slipping problems or any popping...hopefully someone else'll chime in.

Off topic-My grandma lives up in Thomas...small world On topic-Try looking at your sprocket/chain while you're riding it to see if it's skipping teeth. You should be able to rule that out easily. As for the hard shifting who put the tranny back together?

Yeah that'd be cool. I know alot of people have had them mess up but then recently I've seen ones that haven't so that just has me wondering.

I've got some extra a-arms that I replaced b/c I thought the balljoints were bad but turns out there not. I would sell 'em but they look like total shit so I think I'm going to sacrifice them to powdercoating. I recently had a friend PC his stock ones (yes balljoint and all) and they came out fine. All I have ever heard is that you CAN'T so I'm at a little bit of a loss. What I'm going to do is clean 'em up, get as much grease out as I can, tape the balljoint off and go to town. After I PC one I'm going to cut the balljoint open to see if anything is really screwed up or not. What I need to know is what would be the best way to do this without damaging anything internally? I wanna do this to help you guys out that might want to do this and are wondering if it really is possible.