Bansh-eman

someone asked the same question on planet sand a few weeks back when he posted it. send him a message he will send you what ever picts you want

for the price and the custom service you cant beat them.

not doing much this new years. my mom is picking up the little guy so me and the old lady have the day to our self. plus its our 10 year anniversery.

i want to say that they have other ones that are lighter but i didnt want the thin metal. im not trying to shave lbs here and there so i went with the heavy ones. but they look killr for sure!

you cant build that bike for 20k.

ahh too bad, i dont think im going to have everything done to get my bike in there by then

dude chromed the shit out of my bike! KILLER job! WILL WITH OUT A DOUGHT be sending more parts to him!!! if your not doing business with this guy you better be living on the fuking moon!!!

oh the way i understood you was that you wanted to bore out your jugs you just ported to get more power. if thats the case then dont do it. if your talking about just getting a better seal you might be able to get away with honing it out and re-ringing it. mic it and see if they are out of round before you go and bore it ut and its not needed.

for the life your losing on the motor compaired to the power gain of boring , its not worth it. theres other ways to get more power from that motor without eatting the life away from it

imo no its not worth it. works has to compete with the other "big name" companies to stay in business. they are a smaller shop with less over head which keeps the prices down. they have shocks that cost just as much as elkas , axis, peps, or fox floats, but they also have recreational shocks that are much cheaper. i ran works on my bike for a few years and switched out for a marvin shaw when i built my bike for drag. if i go back to dune setup im getting works again. ill never pay the price of elkas when i can get works at half the cost that perform just as well. but its up to you.

word you beat me to it! thats what sucks about polishing is you have to keep doing it becasue it will fade. chrome is the way to go once its done its done.

once you have removed all the tors, and ebreak and all that and your bike is running. you can go back and cut out all the extra caps. i stripped my harness down and got rid of all the bullshit and recovered it with some of that plasti wire stuf from walmart. removed the light switch and replaced with a 2 stage toggle for my lights that i run under the seat and put a CR250 kill switch on it. theres alot of wires that can be removed just look in the wire diagram so u understand everything before you start cutting.

stock breaklines will work with +2 arms. as far as the shocks go, with elka your simply buying there name. Works shocks will perform and last just as long as Elkas. Works have actually been around longer then elka if i remeber correctly. I know that works was out in the 70's. so they got some time under thier belt to make them right. but if your dead set on elkas id find used ones that way someone else has already spent the money and taken the hit on the name. just make sure you look around at ebay and on here and at www.planetsand.com for used parts. and that 2500 will go pretty far. its once you start buying everything brand new is when you will see it disappear very fast

i have a set in cali but i wont be home for a few weeks

you can get some used pipes MUCH cheaper then that. or you can call toomy and see about buying blemished pipes for alo cheaper too. there is no need to spend a ton on elkas, go on ebay and do a search for banshee a arms and find a company called wicked. they have very nice a arms for like 350 podwer coated, then buy some works shocks for your setup. that way you will have money left over for reeds, coolhead, timing plate, ect. you can make that 2500 go a good ways as long as your not buying new. also if your interested, i have a blue ims gastank thats a 4gal im selling. 175 shipped to upper 48 states. ill see if i can find the pict i posted of it. edit: heres a pict of the tank the plastic between the tubes was cut out to fit a dual pingle vavle. will still work with a stock petcock if thats what your running.

chevy, there are others that have moderator rights that can move post so it probly wasnt lee that got on and did it. go and search his name and you can see the last time he logged in.

man i didnt know my foot was powered by a battery. i always was under the impression it was my leg powering it! hot damn i learned something new!

i brought my computer to texas with me to have my buddy re-format it, like a retard i forgot my cd case with the code on it in san diego, so im gamless right now

the +2 will fit the stock lines ok but they pull a little at max turn. if you go longer then +2 which at your height you might want to you should go longer. packard might sell some longers cables check them out

look at getting a mod quad +2 stem. i got one off a guy on here (and i cant remember his damn name) brand new for a killer price. chromed with anti vibe clamp. now im not bent over like i used to be. im not 6'2" so you might need a little longer. only down fall is longer then that you should lengthen your brakelines to the dont pull.

i sent my works right back to them, they always gave me what i wanted and the price wasnt too bad either

when i pc'd mine i just took all the rubber and bolts and pads off. pistons stayed in.

its not a matter of using it or not. your bike will still need to correct suspension for the type of riding your doing. if your running 300 ft sand drags you might consider some shaws or other stiff drag shocks. if your running asphalt drags you might consider struts.and mx , dunes, TT, and so on. regaurdless of what type of riding he is doing there is still a setup that works for that style, it just my entail more or less hardwear depending on which he needs. you need to do some research and decide what setup will most suite the majority of your riding type. there is no one size fits all. you will go faster with the bolt on mods with your setup now, but once you decide to do more motor work, which i can pretty much promise you that you will. your going to be sadly disappointed to find your bike not going much faster after alot of work simpily becasue your suspension cant hold the power the the ground like you need. so take it for what its worth.

for a stock tranny i like gearsaver 80w, if your running an override alot of guy use AFT type f. its cheap but you have to replace it more often

yes nce you drop pipes reeds filters and all that onthere, it will be faster then a bone stock. but like said already we all know that once you start beefing it uup your not going to stop there. id be willing to bet he isnt going to come across another grand laying around very ez. so take care of the most expensive part while you have the money and buy the other parts later. a big motor wont do shit on a stock setup period. i dont care how good of a rider you claim to be. the most important part of a race isnt the motor its your setup. your motor will account for about 20% of a race.