SlowerThanYou

The torque rod with changes in swingarm design, solved our tracking problems. I'm assuming you know we are running a stock chassis with single a-arms. We like the design and weight savings, but it's too twitchy at speed. Still trying to figure out how to fix it. Are you talking about the motor mounts? We are still stock with a couple of mods and looking to try a few more changes.

I guess you are talking about the torque strut. Sorry, the only picture I have doesn't show it well, but I'll post it. http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/BLK1700/100_0633Medium.jpg It's just a 1" diameter, around 36" long with right& left handed heim/rod ends. One end fastens to the rear of the swingarm and the other end fastens to the swingarm pivot bolt. We put a little bit of preload on the swingarm with it.

I don't get on my sponsor's bandwagons too much. You know who one is, but I would like to thank the other's; THANKS!. The performance of the qaud speaks for its self. LOL There are tubes to cut/tubes to leave and them tubes need to stay IMO. I would leave them for sand also. We try not to do what most do, for a reason. Our quad is heavier than the vast majority of quads. Plus, we are probably the heaviest jockey's in our sport. Our set-up has to be different because of our weight. Example, our +14 swingarm is supposed to be to long according to the experts! Now for my partner in crime. The wealth of informaton that man has to offer; all I can say is THANKS! Yes, I'm jumping on the Tedder Bandwagon! LOL BK

Thanks again for the kind words. I normally go by 1700camaro on the forums and for some reason it go messed up here. Yes, I talk with Mark and try to stear him in the right direction as with many on the asphalt. Now for the swingarm, it's a +14 and I couldn't believe it only weighed 9lbs. I can't remember the oz. but I'm sure it was pushing 10lbs. The only thing I didn't weight was the 1" diameter aluminum torque strut that goes on the left side. We used larger diameter tubing for the bottom rails and along with the extra gussets and supports. It solved our tracking problem during the 1st 330' of the track. I must thank Metaltech to have an open mind to trying things a little different. We worked together to provide what we needed. The single front arm system is nice, but still needs a little work. I haven't figured out how to fix it, yet.

Thanks for the kind words, AZCUSTOMQUADS! Dragblaster, you have a lot of work ahead of you and more items you need to tune. The combination of all parts have to work together or make compromises between the parts. The 1st thing I would do with your set-up. Is get a little bit of wheel speed (little spin) off the line. Most fast drag clutch set-ups will have it and NHRA Pro Stock cars use are the perfect example. There are numerous ways to compromise to get it. Now you just need to do a little research to figure it out. I will point you in the right direction, but I will not do the work for you. BK

MPH is hard to get when you pass the 1/8 mile mark. We are pretty sure it has something to do with a quad not being very aerodynamic. How we get our mph, I'm not totally sure. I have an idea and I think it there are 2 items that play a major factor.

We completed the build in Apr and have about 60 runs on the new combo. On its worst day the new bike is faster than the old one on its best day. I'm not much for photos or video. The photo is the only I have and it wasn't even taken by us. http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/BLK1700/Rockingham2010pic2.jpg

Hey, someone actually pays attention to what I say. LOL! Drag Blaster, you went from one extreme on the front sprocket to the other. IMO 17 tooth is too much for that motor. BK

Still, the best way to go on the rear is an adjustable strut. Loosen 2 jam nuts and twist either way for your adjustment. A 1/8" in either direction can make a big difference. Now you need to work on the sprockets. The 13 tooth is part of your problem also.

Have you done what already has been recommended? Adjustable rear strut with LH & RH rod ends/heim joints and would like to see it on the fronts also. We prefer marvin shaw shocks up front over struts, but have used both. You need to change you gearing, but the 17 tooth is too big. Unless you are not providing your true mods to the quad. 36 PWKs sound pretty big for nothing supposedly done to the motor. BK

I'm not interested in the PM thing. If I'm going to help out, I will share it with everyone. Too many people want information, but do not want to provide any information. I could care less about your times, if you are happy with them that's all that matters. You fail to realize, the time slip holds the key information for tuning your quad!

I have given you part of the answer. We have around 900 passes on the asphalt with quads, but what do I know. Have some patience Grasshopper; going fast takes time, effort and experience. Your results are directly affected by you. BK

On asphalt you will be quicker with solid struts. That's speaking from experience.

I'm assuming he's running 1/8 mile asphalt with wanting to break into the 7s. If he's, taking off in 2nd gear would end up with a broken gear.

This is a general statement and many other factors play a part. The rear strut needs to be adjustable and the bike needs to be low. The angle of the swingarm plays a big factor on how the quad reacts.

I can't provide the exact formula. It was done by a Engineer that has racing experience. It was put on an excel spreadsheet. I guess I need to look at the Crew Chief Pro software again. I'm sure it provides the same data. I just know what it should or shouldn't look like on the track. I have won a few big money bracket races.

I guess I need to rewrite the guidelines or you need to read them again. This is good questioning and I appreciate it. The tree is not used for eliminations and the faster vehicle uses the staging beams. The slower vehicle gets spotted out 30' for example. The reason for laddering the round for the best race. We don't want the slower vehicle to be out too far on the track. There are pros and cons for both racers. We don't want a cc or class structure for this class. Sorry Skip you can't bill this as a "heads up" class. This is a "Don't Panic" class and that's it, take it or leave it.

I have won the battle. Adding in a "No Scrub Time", this will keep people from using their brakes. The pairing are based off the their qualifying times. Yes, I understand your point of going over the slips. We are talking about entry limit for the 1st year. This will be a track personel intensive class.

Call it what you want, but there's nothing out there like it. It will be pretty hard to bracket/index without looking back or getting out of the throttle. As for scrubbing ET with the brakes. I have a fix for that too, but I'm fighting with Skip over that one. I would like to have an equal/unknown "Scrub Time" added.

You miss interpreted the .05 than your best run. That was used for an example. It can and will change, based on different things. The time will be unknown/equal for all during that round. Thanks for providing input to the class! Bryan

Thanks for the compliment, I wrote the guidelines and Skip has to enforce them. We wanted a class that was totally different than any other. Plus we wanted it to be competitive for any quad racers budget. This is not a bracket or index race, it's a Don't Panic race. It's a new game, nothing like I've seen in my 30+ years of drag racing!

You think that's wild, we have a low 10 sec. Banshee.

My son's desert banshee with toomey pipes and asphalt tires/struts went 13.20s around 82mph.

Funny, but right! Here's the scoop as close as I remember. In the high tens with a stock cylinder 417cc on alky with same rider. I think that was accomplished around 150 passes. We continued with a 443cc cub on alky with .1-.2 ET improvements. At around 500 passes we started running mid to low 10s on race gas. With over 600 1/4 mile passes and the 1st NHRA quad to win a Walley. We are currently testing the new and improved quad with same motor on gas and same riders. Hopefully it will dip into the 9s this year!

If you do a search of the Drag forum you will find your information. We consitently run low 10s with a 443cc cub on race gas, stock frame and a +220 lb rider.