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SlowerThanYou

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Everything posted by SlowerThanYou

  1. I didn't say you were top dog, it was asked as a ? I want a realistic standard not a 100lb jockey on a chromoly frame. You run nothing but 300' sand/dirt and I thought you would be up to the challenge. I think you have the bigger bike, but nothing stupid for a apples to apples comparison. I have a stock frame, gasoline powered 7mm cub. I think you are close except a 10mm cub on alky, am I right or wrong? All I would like is 3 times to the 300' to better your best time. What do you think about that, Bryan
  2. I'm still trying to figure out how I blew up according to you on my first post. I replied to what was written, replied with proper information and gave you a recommendation. It was based on your typo, but I was supposed to know that on my first post. Then you start with the name calling and then the talking down to people who dump the clutch. I provided information the correct information for that. Regardless, I already said I was wrong for getting drawn into name calling. I sure haven't heard the same from anyone else involved.
  3. It's going to be a while before I do anything. I had a bad accident and almost died. I'm trying to recuperate a severely broken back and some other issues. As for clutch information, I share very little of our current set-ups. If I nail it in the 300' I'm sure it will be the same. Regardless, I will provide thruthfull/factual results good or bad. Are you referring to yourself as a top dog, then that can be the standard? As for Fouledout I was expecting a little more debate, but I guess he needed some help. I'm a fellow MI also, born/raised until 19. Most of my family still lives there and I'm on the West Coast.
  4. You are missing the point it's not the same clutch set-up on sand, but the principles are the same. As for 300' sand, dirt or asphalt the clutch is locked-up well before 300'. You down played the hill and it's not as easy as you make it out to be. Yes, there are no timers, but you can bet I'm getting the best 60' and 300' possible. It's a drag race and I'm going to maximize power to the gound. Now for 300' timed sand, I'm headed there and will use the hill shooting set-up and refine it using the 60' timers. "What is in question is talking about all these NHRA/IHRA setups, pavement, etc., when this guy rides 300ft dirt." He runs sand, dirt and asphalt and he stated that later on. As you can see his 300' times correlate pretty closely. That was great information I've been wanting to know. Plus it's very relevent to what we are discussing. "My other point is just because something should work in principle, doesn't mean it will work in actual application." The clutch principles haven't let me down yet and I will take them to the 300' sand. "Us 300 ft. sand/dirt guys don't run cut springs. Some run all HD, some run stockers, some mix and match." Matt ask if he could cut the springs and I answered correctly, but told him not to do it. There are other problems associated by doing that. So, I totally agree with you he doesn't need to do it, there are other ways to do it. I run the same multi-stage clutch as Ted/Tedder and I don't want him dragged into this. His name speaks for its self. I've been told many things I can't do with this quad. I'm taking it out and actually doing it successfully. 300' is next and hopefully Pikes Peak to follow. I agree with a truce for name calling. As for everything else it's healthy debate and apparently it will end when I make it to the 300' track.
  5. Thanks Steve, you must have heard about the accident on one of the asphalt sites. I tend to stir up the drama and that happens with too much time on my hands. 1700camaro/Bryan
  6. What happens is the spring coils will stack solid and not allow your clutch to disengage.
  7. I still answered his ? and yes it's drag racing and the same basic clutch principles apply. It worked for me on the hill and I will take the same principles to 300' sand. . Get over your keyboard BS drama. I have nothing but time & you are cheap entertainment.
  8. Why not tell him the reason to stretch. The problem with cutting coils is coil bind.
  9. Matt, I know very little about sand and nothing about dirt. The 1st and most important thing about your clutch. We need a baseline on what springs you are currently running and not cut anything.
  10. You are out of touch with NHRA's Pro Stock Bike HP, but it doesn't matter. The same basic principles apply, slip the clutch initially and bring it in progressively down track. Go back to the original ? I provided the proper answer for both asphalt and sand. You can cut the primary springs. I can't help someone got their panties in a twist. The world doesn't revolve around Planet Sand. This is Banshee HQ not 300' dirt HQ. I have set records on the asphalt, love hill shooting and plan on running the West Coast Shootout if healthy.
  11. No bad information given here only the facts.
  12. OK, Grasshopper's butt cleaner. The clutch dropping was mainly meant for asphalt, but I did include sand. Apples to apples there are a Banshees using the same clutch management system as an NHRA Pro Stock Motorcycle. As far as I can remember my quad although not a bike is NHRA legal and it routinely runs 300', but it keeps on going until 1320'. OH, I forgot you probably had a typo 300ft should have been 300ft of sand. As for apples to apples comparison. I was also told our asphalt set-up wouldn't work on sand. We took the same basic principles and equipment. Went to Glamis and Dumont Dunes hill racing and silenced the nay sayers on their bigger quads. Now for listening to what I have to say, I never said you had too!
  13. Grasshopper, the typo excuse is taking the easy way out of giving bad information. As for dumping the clutch, that's the proper way to do it on asphalt. You must know something the top classes of NHRA & IHRA don't know. They all dump the clutch, but that's the difference between a wannabe good rider/driver and a professional. Yes I included rider, but I guess you would even call a Pro Stock Motorcycle rider average. Bryan
  14. I would recommend you do some more research. We have used cut springs since we started on both sand & asphalt. Here's an example a 700+cc DM using all stock Banshee springs and not burning up the clutch. Depending on the combination you can get pretty creative with the stock springs and a lock-up.
  15. Then it sounds like it needs to be sent to someone who does overrides.
  16. Sounds like you need to talk too the person who cut the trans, sorry!
  17. Shift Forks!, but check the simple stuff that was already said.
  18. I was chilling, just having some cheap enterainment provided by you.
  19. So, move the darn post and be done with it.
  20. I didn't stutter and my roll is plenty fast. Don't play stupid about Jeff, you know who he is. No problem, get off your high horse Queeny.
  21. Good for you, get over it! It's the truth whether you like it or not.
  22. Stick with what Tedder has told you. He has been there and done the testing between the slicks and the American Racers. I've done the testing between the American Racers & the Hoosiers, both in there softest compound. They are both good tires and I have both, but I still lean toward the American Racers. Bryan
  23. I forgot to add you need to have small 12v battery for the shift kill/counter to work.
  24. The shift kill is seperate and it's a dyna shift counter/shift kill. We use a 1997 & later dyna progammable ignition and it has a shift light wire/function and we use it. I'm not a big fan of Dyna's customer service and I don't indorse their product. I had to hook up a relay to make the shift counter/shift kill work. Their Engineers couldn't figure out how to wire it correctly. Thanks to a buddy and some back yard engineering we got it to work.
  25. We initially used the ignition kill in conjuction with the air shifter. We could only get the air shifter to work around 97 percent of the time. The 3 percent it didn't work, seemed like it always cost us a round win. We took off the air shifter and do it manually now. For the 5 & 6 shift we hit a button and the shift lever at the same time. The button is wired into the Dyna shifter counter/ignition kill. As for secrets, I will point you in the right direction. The same as many people did with me over 30 plus years. We have made about 600 runs on our quad in the past 4 years, but most of the know how came from drag racing cars over the many years. Bryan
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