SlowerThanYou

Going to kick it. We have the reinforced clutch cover & we wear boots. We also have the programmable Dyna. We will see what happens.

We decided on our compression change & the domes are cut. The 1st domes were 14.5:1 for asphalt. The new ones are at 16.5:1 that we'll use for 300' only.

I have no problems with you & I didn't understand why I was referred to as Dick or know it all. Hence, I turned into a Dick thereafter. If I said psi in my thread, I'm sure it's still there. Quote it & will humbly apologize. Hmmm...... you don't see that much on the forums! As for the stock spring pressure, I have no idea. Our stuff takes modified stock style banshee springs. Our future plans include doing some R&D with stock springs, DD lock-up & maybe even a slingshot. I have most of the parts ready, just need to find time to test. I guess I need to get our other Banshee going & maybe even build another.

Then there's no reason for you to be a hypocrite & use any of my information. Turbo back to post #23, apparently it wasn't simple enough for you.

I'm sure if Windy "sponge" ordered some pipes you would sell them. I'm probably sure you sold your pipes to other "sponge" member's of this site. Nothing against RDZ, J. Menz or J-Madd; you are always quick to ride on other's coat tails. Take some of that energy & apply it to your own records with your pipes! But what do you know about that?

You have lost touch with reality! RDZ only has had records in the past & that has been a while. The now, almost defunct Planet Sand doesn't have RDZ listed anywhere in their records. PSDA, the current organization has no listing of RDZ having a record. What you will find is Shearer & his customer's having the records/wins in both organizations record books. The truth is bitch slapping you in the face, but you can keep on living in your fantasy world.

I don't see where I came off as a pro. " There might be other ways of doing it". It's pretty clear you have a choice. You don't like everyone being a pro, go somewhere else or hit the ignore option for the Pro's. It does not get much simpler than that!

I was trying to stay out of this cat fight. We measure our clutch springs in lbs. @ the spring installed height. As far as I know that's the standard for clutch base pressure testing. There might be other ways of doing it. We do the same basic procedures with our race car valve springs, but it's a little more involved. If you need a little more guidance on the spring testing, just ask in the lock-up tuning thread.

No worky.

20mm Cougar, 824cc on spray.

Thanks for revising your comment about "I'm guessing these are "your" Puerto Ricans?". Only one is my buddy & like a son to me. Nothing against the other's & they aren't all Puerto Ricans. Thanks for posting the video up.

Not that you will believe it. We actually run 1/4 at the track. I think our best MPH was 114 or 115 & it ran consistently 110-112 MPH.

Cattledog MIA since Dec. 30, 2012

1st, I want to say. I don't not have this clutch pack reading totally figured out. Still learning as with the rest of the clutch tuning. IMO, the answer is staring you in the face. The warp/cupped plates is causing the abnormal heat marks. If the plates would have been flat. You probably would have no heat showing like the rest of the pack. Now, when did the warped/cupped problem start & how do you fix it? Would be the 1st questions I would ask. I agree with your principle of the center of the clutch pack. However, we have found some different things that actually take place. I think Calvin from CP or maybe Tim from Titan Racing talked about it on PS. The actual lock-up tuning can move the heat around. Here's what I do know from our experience. We have completely fried clutch packs. We have moved the heat from the inside to the middle & to the outside of the clutch pack. I also remember having heat on the inside & outside of the pack with none in the middle. While we still generate a lot of heat/slippage. Our clutch pack vary rarely shows it anymore with the procedures & modifications we do

Again thanks for sharing the information. As for chasing the clutch at the track we normally don't do that. Unless it's totally wrong like our 1st time out with the DMX. When we have a good baseline clutch set-up. We change the easy things like tire pressure, gearing, wheelie bar & launch rpm to name a few.

You basically answered your own question. Plates need to be checked even when new & with periodic inspections thereafter.

People still don't like sandbagging. We do it heads-up, index & bracket racing both on sand/asphalt. We learned it from our 30+ years of drag racing. The strategy has paid off with big money wins. Most people don't like it & some do. To each their own, it works if done right!

Congratulations, Glad to here your results!

It's the typical few, who try & make themselves feel better by putting other's down. It's easy to bump their keyboard with their Budda Belly's. They poke jabs, but when someone delivers the knockout punch they are no where to be found. I'm sure their lurking though. It's a 20mm Cougar & I don't know if it's a record or not.

We really got caught off guard with the primary gear ratio affecting our clutch set-up. I knew it would change our set-up, but I didn't figure this much. Anyway, our new primary ratio is a 2.54. We chose this for 1/4 mile primarily. We have ran 2.68s when we 1st started in 2005 & then switched to 2.86s around 07. It's hard to find information on primary ratio changes affecting clutch basket speed. Most that I have talked with says going from a 2.86 to 2.68 to 2.54 etc. speeds the basket speed up. I agree with that, but a few say it slows it down. Also, in my studies I found that there's less torque being seen by the clutch, because of the change. That worries me & I found some of these results in our 1st track outing. The 1st thing we noticed was the motor wanting to bog at the drop of the clutch lever. No big deal, I'll just take some base pressure out. Well, I kept taking & still haven't found the sweet spot yet. We were at a point of 40+ lbs. less base pressure than we ran on our Cub. 2nd thing we noticed was the motor rpms being pulled down 20'-30' out. The arm weights were coming in to fast. While we made changes in the right direction on both areas, it was not enough. The last part of the evaluation was inspecting the clutch pack after getting home. It can tell you your clutch tune-up; kind of like reading your spark plugs. There was not enough heat in the steels for it to even show. The type of hot lapping we were doing should have shown a slight brown discoloration, but nothing. For me, this last information along with the above info. Gave me a pretty good insight to what the clutch was doing & really what it wasn't doing. Note for myself: clutch changes made & reading the clutch pack.

While you see some of this style rigids on asphalt. If you run with NHRA or IHRA, they are not allowed in the rules. Not to say they don't run, but usually only allowed at the T&Ts & at the smaller less known tracks. As for building a stock frame based asphalt chassis. There's a few options you can do, LOL! It just takes a little more work to make them work well. Our background is 1/4 mile drag racing. We have been racing a 1/4 mile ATV since 2005 & have around 900-1000 passes. Using a stock frame based chassis. The current combo is +14"s out the back & +1" out the front. We also run on sand with it & it does very well there too.

3.213 @ 96 mph!!!!!!!!! Way to go to the Superlight racing team! I'm especially proud of Angel for his Crew Chief abilities/ sacrifices to make this happen. To the Naysayer's; well, I just leave at that with no comment.

Good job, would like to see pics & vid too.

Thanks again for sharing the information. Clutter the thread I don't care & good luck with the bike.

Thanks for the tips! We don't have much choice & have to run the 2.54 primaries for the 1/4 mile. I wish I would have kept the 2.86s for sand. What tires are you referring to the 1st ones tried or the current ones not tried? How's Gilbert going?