SlowerThanYou

The only post is quoted above, that referred to a full rigid. Nothing else was said other than a stock frame. We run primarily NHRA tracks. You can feel free to call them to get your answer & I'll wish you good luck. LOL!

DDU, the red Camaro had a 385 small block Chevy. I did all the machine work, blueprinting/assembly & the cylinder head porting. My wife had the fastest time with that motor 10.40 @ 127mph. The current motor is a mild 434 small block Chevy. It Dyno'd at 629 hp & 590 something ft. lbs. of torque. The salt flat car motor is 259 cubic inch V8 Chevy. Lets see if I can remember the specs, LOL! It's a 350 Chevy Block, with a de-stroked 302 Chevy with 6 1/4" (very long) custom rods. We ran it in the Stock Production Fuel Class with a motor limit of 260 cubic inches. The motor is mechanical injection on Methanol with Nitrous injection using race fuel. We can run any fuel in that class including Nitromethane. The truck had a all aluminum 632" that dyno'd at 1300 hp naturally aspirated. The best 60' was a 1.07, it was enough to screw your eyeballs to the back of your head. The 86 olds Super Stocker is only 327" with stock heads & a quadra jet carb. It's not very fast at low 11s, but it puts on a hell of a show on the starting line. The wheel stands are simply amazing. OOPS, I forgot the mustang! When I drove it, it had a 406" stroked 351 motor in it. I ran the best of 10.13 @ 130+mph with it. In the 2 years I raced it, I won around $14,000. Great car for a Ford.

We have a stock frame that pulls low 1.30 60's with a 443 cub on race gas.

I would check with the tracks you are planning to run first. The majority of tracks we run require a stock chassis.

Here's some clutch tuning updates I got from a member today. He's pretty happy with how his tuning is going he may or may not chime in. The results are from a smaller motor. He started with low 1.40 60's, with some basic clutch tuning he getting into the low to mid 1.30 60's on the last tuning session. There was other gains made also, but that's up to the member to decide if he wants to share.

That's why I only went with a 10mm crank & it's billet.

I have a few more to post when I get time & can find the photo's. I had a computer go down & I lost some information. Trying to find some photos of my son's sponsored ride.

Here's the most recent car I drove a Super Stocker. That thing will go up on the rear bumper.

This is the bad boy of the bunch, 632 cubic inches. I ran 7.70 @ 180 with this.

We have it set-up for different classes, but it runs low 10s all out with a naturally aspirated small block.

This was one of the best cars I've ever driven & I hate Fords. This picture was taken in Phoenix, AZ. It was a two day race paying $1000 to win both days. I was fortunate enough to win both days. Two weeks later I won my 1st NHRA Wally with it. I could hardly do anything wrong with that car. First 6 races out with it, we won 5 of them & 1 race we had to settle for 2nd. LOL! The owner is wanting me to race this car again.

Running the Bonneville Salt Flats was always a child hood dream. I got a great opportunity to experience this with my best friend & his uncle. I ran from 1990-1996, we are trying to get a new ready for the salt again. Not a big fan of orange, but my buddy likes it. Left to right: Speedo/our sponsor, Mike/my best friend and of me. Here's the car before we repainted it. I actually likes this the best.

No, I drove the truck for 3 years for the owner. Got my feet wet running some of the NHRA circuit including National Events. I'm making a thread with a little information on our racing.

Here's our family owned/built workhorse race car. The thing doesn't look like much, but it has served my family well. My wife raced it for a few years. My son got his start at 16 with it. It's really part of the family. It has won our family championships & a good amount of money.

Out of curiosity I would like to here your clutch set-up. Not that I'm saying that could be the problem, but it could be contributing factor.

Everything I type here is a joke.

Wow, sounds like a challenge to a forum cat fight. Are you a fucking idiot? Most people don't get mad unless it's true.

We've ran different octane leaded fuels & a two different brands. Plus, we have ran alky also & can provide a comparison to both. We have used them for 1/4 mile asphalt, hill shooting & 300' drags. IMO, you need to be a little more specific with your questions.

I have to top you just for fun & we actually do it. We use some add-ons to go along with our dyna also.

Do a search, plenty of good info to be found. Listen to people who actually run that distance. You're only going to find a couple that do 1/4 mile & do it well.

10x3 is the narrowest I've found at real wheel, but they are pricey @ $86 each. http://www.realwheel.net/

Yes, it shuts off at .091, but the .101 doesn't. I measured the shut off point & it's somewhere around .096 We were throwing timing to the motor at the track & it kept on responding. Instead of building a new curve on the computer. It was easier/quicker to add on the plate. We took the cover off & found a partially destroyed timing pick-up. I had set the gap at .020 & we then checked the screws to make sure they were tight (they were). Everything was running good & we continued to make around 10 more passes. When we got home I knew I had to replace the pick-up before going to the dyno. When pulling the flywheel, I've never had one come off like this one. The impact gun would not budge it. I got out the 1/2 drive ratchet & had to use a little extra torque. The flywheel literally made a loud pow noise & flew off the end of the crank. After talking with K&T they say it happens sometimes. I've never had one do that. Anyway, after I replaced the pick-up, I was running down the nut with a air ratchet & it twisted off before pulling any torque. So, I don't know If the threads were stretched from the 1st install or from removing the flywheel.

Yes, that did surprise me! It's quickly catching the Lock-out/Lock-up Tuning Thread. Not the reason I did either thread, but for the most part it has been good interaction/discussion.

I'm not an expert on PJs, but have some theories I want to try. One I brought up in discussion with Tim @ Titan Racing & there was a long pause. He ask me how I figured that out. I haven't figured it out yet, but want to do some testing with it. He wasn't offering any help with the project, but said it would be worth my time to do it. Anyway, as with all my stuff. I'm selective on sharing, when it's just theory & not tested. As for the other stuff I want to do. I have room to screw the left PJ body in & affectively make it start 1st. Plus, I can cut some of the discharge tube on the right PJ to delay the timing. I also want to change the discharge nozzle shapes on the engine side. Some use a 45* angle & I want to try another shape also. Our inside dia. of the barbed fitting is .112. That's larger than the dump tubes in the PJs. Our left one is drilled to .101 & the right one is un-drilled at .091. So the barbed fitting is not the restriction. Some people do drill out the fittings!