jbooker82

Probably screamed on the top end with a loss in midrange.

Any volume that is not taken up by the adaptor wich a plug normally occupise will cause a lower reading. Even the long brass screw on adaptors for 14mm long will add 2-3 cc's to the combustion chamber volume. Look at noss machine's web site for their dome chart and see how much of a swing in PSI 3cc's gets you. If you want an accurate gauge it has to have the scrader valve in the tip. If it is in the hose then you thread on an adaptor your adding volume to the combustion chamber. As for it being correct on your car. It is probably going to be more accurate due to the larger displacement. The smaller the motor is the more easly it can be off. Snap On hose with the valve in the tip Generic hose Hollow Adaptor Hose and Adaptor

Cheap builds dont last as long. Would you rather do it twice and pay twice or do it once. I would skip vito's pistons and go with Wiesco's.

Red = Gasoline Yellow = Diesel Fuel Blue = Kerosene Green = Oil Anybody that wants a nice approved fuel can I would recomend a Just Rite type II safty can. It has a nice valve that is easy to activate while your poruing. I have the taller 2 gallon can that i use for my HPI Baja and Goped BigFoot scooter. It is a pretty accurate valve system. They are expensive but they are also all metal. I can fill this can up at the station and put it inside my car an not get much of a fuel odor. http://justritemfg.com/product.tpl?action=search&eqtitledatarq=Type%20II%20AccuFlow%20Safety%20Cans&eqVENDORdatarq=justrite&MAJORCATEGORY=Type%20II%20Cans%20For%20Flammables&CATEGORY=AccuFlow%20Safety%20Cans&max=1&bob=Safety%20Container%20Products&bob2=3

I guess tell them that it is windshield wiper fluid in your clear can if you run a colored race fuel.

I guess I wouldnt replace the bottom rubber hoses with stainless steel hoses, and still keep the upper rubber hose from the master cylinder to the hard steel line. Any aftermarket extended hose will replace the whole run from the master cylinder to the brake calipars. Some use 2 lines all the way down from the master cylinder, while others run a single line down to a T that gets mounted on to the frame. Then each line runs out to the calipars from there. Here is the 3 piece SpeedLineZ's http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEEDLINEZ-Yamaha-Banshee-3-Pc-Front-Brake-Lines-by-American-Star-/360542789698?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f2066042&vxp=mtr

The only thing I could see with the Rangers taking gas would be if it was in a Utility Style jug, instead of an approved gasoline can. Those fuel jugs are now called utility jugs because they are illegal for for fuel use, even though they are made out of fuel safe material.

I prefer ones that use a single line to the master cylinder. There is already enough crap going to the handle bars with out having double brake lines.

If you keep the bottle it will keep the radiator topped off.

Sorry for got the price $40

Up for sale is a 16" Flex O Lite Fan. It is reverse rotation for serpentien belts. It comes with an adaptor for the large thread on Ford Fans. You can use this fan on others but you will need to buy a different adaptor.

Maybe it is for lawnmower racing.

Amsoil Saber has a flash point of 237 deg F. I bet the cylinder wall temp gets pretty close to that so your oil is buringin off instead of lubercating. Klotz R50 has a flash point of 550 Deg F wich is why you get a liquid oil out of the pipes but at least it is staying a liquid and lubercating.

I had a Magura hydro clutch on my raptor and took it off as well. The same reason. The lever would bottom out before It would disengage the clutch. If I used the slave cylinder spacer it wouldnt fully engage the clutch. Took it off and bought a new cable and ASV lever as well.

Mine came with genuine Mikuni Boots. I have herd that some of them dont. Like I said I propbably would get a white knuckel racing intake with the cross hairs and a round opening in the back since he is running Vforce 3's. That way the intake shape matches the reed shape.

Solder an led on the end of a ac power cord. Plug it in and swing it around in a circle. You can really see the 60hz affect. The circle is made up of a bunch of dashes.

I went from Upp to my boss one piece intake. I would do it again. It is nice to not have the carb hit the clutch arm. I use 10 deg angled 6" K&N pods. If your trying to keep the air box it will probably be to tight of a fit. Since you have vforce 3 reeds I would go for one that has a round opening on the reed side. Then port the vforce reed insert to match. The boss intake has a big square opening in the back. I use the cascade reed stuffers with my Vforce 3's.

I think the problem is that it uses specal domes. Most people want to stick with a head that uses prodesign domes. They are much more common and most builders have their own custom cut domes and are the prodesign style.

Looks like an Electro Sport Stator. I run one in my raptor and it has been fine for me. I dont know if they still use the blue coating or if they went to a clear. My raptor one has the clear sealent but pics on there web site do show some blue ones. The blue ones look like the sealant is a lot thicker and heavier, and was hopping my raptor stator would have had it but it didn't. http://www.electrosport.com/products/stators/

If the chrome is bad you can heat the pipe up until it is glowing. Another thing you can try is to get the carbon buring on the inside. Then blow a low speed stream of air though the pipe so the carbon keeps buring. There isnt really a cleaner that will remove heavy carbon build up that you find in 2 stroke pipe.

The part I don't like about a arms that use hiem joints on the upper arm where it mounts to the frame is setting the Caster. You don't just thread the joints all the way in and call it good. You have to use an angle finder to set the correct angle between the top and bottom ball / hiem joint. If you don't the steering won't feel right. It will ethire be hard to turn or unstable at high speeds.

I ran some 1.5 year old Sunoco 110 with Bel Ray H1R. Seem to run fine for the short time I rode it. I did end up dumping the fuel and cleaning the carbs before we went to the dunes last week. It was sealed up in a VP Fuel Can, and it did have about 5 oz of Sta Bil.

Yes it will cost you performance because the gutted can will not have a smooth flow. There will be turbulence which will restrict the flow of exhaust gases.

Dyna Digital coil would be another one to consider

Dune ported Cub, that is kind of like a Drag ported Serval.