jbooker82

Did you get a set of pipe clamps or Couplers? I would recomend the RIS Design's. They have 4 viton orings that seal up the pipe. They have a knerled finsish so you can tighten them down pretty good by hand.

That is just how they fit. The banshee's engine is not centered in the frame. My CPI's fit really close to the motor and air filters on the LH side but clear by a mile on the RH side. I have to run a heat wrap on the LH singer tube so I dont melt an outwer

No problem for the pics. Let me know what you think of the CPIs when you get them on. :thumbsup:

I got the 33's and they are a great carb.

I got a pair of Troy Lee EXP Cold Weather gloves. TLD Gloves LINK

It also helps out with carbs that are not in sync. I would leave it.

If it were me I would get a set of cool head studs. Yours just look like somebody made them out of ready rod. There is orings that go on each stud. I dont imgine that they would seal real well against the threads. There it 2 longer studs that come in the kit too. They go in the front of the cylinder right above the exhaust port. josh

If your wanting a great port job for a good price then I would go with Herr Jug's or FloTek. Plus they have a really fast turn arount time. josh

Get the noss head and a 35 dollar adjustable stator plate to advance the ignition timing..

They just look like a copy of a copy. Dip them in chrome so they look flashy to sell. Pluse they have power jets in them. You really dont need those unless your running methanol, or going from different elevations.

I wouldnt get those carbs. If your going to get a Keihin knock off carb get the 30mm OKO's. Those carbs dont use the common keihin main jet. The main in the pic is a round jet. Keihin's use a longer Hex jet. The pilot jets look the same though.

That doesnt happen. If you have a drag pipe it cost you bottom end. If you have a bottem end pipe it cost you top end. Your not going to get Paul Turner mid's bottom end and Shearer's Top end out of the same pipe. You dont gain something for nothing.

Selling a pair of UM Ez fit rear wheel spacers. They are the standard yamaha bolt pattern. Each spacer is 2.5 inches thick for a total of 5 inches. You do not have to take the old studs out of the hubs and use long bolts. These have studs that thread on to the stock studs then you slide the spacer over the studs. One of the wheel spacers has a chip taken out. It was cold out and I droped it while I was putting them on, when they were new. There is a pic. I have ran it for 2 years with no probems. There is no cracks. I take paypal 50 Bucks Shipped. josh

Another tip for you. When you go to take the head off instead of undoing the rear hose clamp, Just thake the 2 allen head bolts out and leave that piece in the hose. That way when your putting the shell back on your not fighting to try to get that hose on. Then once it is all bolted down just bolt the rear hose fitting back on. If you do this make sure you put some teflon tape on the threads so they dont leak coolant.

Yea but what do you do with the silicone that makes its way into the cooling system. The vasoline disolves in the coolant. Silicone is going to stay chunked up and plug stuff up.

Toomey T5's and 6's come with the rear hangers.

Did you check the pickup coil gap. That can really cause your shee to run like crap. They dont come set.

:beer:

That J arm looks like it will funnel dirt and sand down in to the Heim Joint pretty well :shoothead:

Did you check the Clearance between the 2 nodes on the flywheel and the picup coil. Use a buisness card or match book cover to set the proper gap. If that doesnt work then. Try putting the other stator back on at the same timing point to see if it is any better. Some people claim that it takes 3 different stators from ricky stator to get a good one.

The nice thing about using vasoline is that the first time you fire it up it all melts. Some people use reagular grease.

Snoop says CPI's start to fall off at 10,000. PC's fall off at around 8,000

And just think they make pistons too

That is my kind of pipe

Most people run 6in. That is what I run. They also make them angled flang so you can move them away from the hot exhaust. I use a cascade heat wrap on the LH stinger tube so I dont melt an outerwear. 20 deg angle was to much for my setup. I run a 10 deg angled pods. I run a boss racing intake. It has replaceable rubber mikuni flanges, and has a built in crossover tube. It also moves the carbs up so LH one doesnt hit on the clutch arm.