jbooker82

No the fling outward. I have one on my banshee. It works good. Direct Drive makes a whole new clutch cover so you dont have to worry about the stock one leaking. Before they would just mill a stock cover and epoxy or weld on an extension ring. Direct drive's is a new cast cover with a beefer area around the kick starter shaft, and the vent is eliminated under the water pump. They also now use a 12 bolt lexan cover instead of the 6 that is pictured. This helps keep the lexan from warping and leaking. Mine is hard to shift. I let the lockup do the work, so I run 6 OEM springs instead of HD ones. A good quality easy pull lever and Motion Pro Terminator cable helps. ASV C5 Pro lever and pearch is a great one. josh My new 12 bolt lexan cover

I use some Alpinestars Tech 3's with the all terain sole. They are some nice boots 159 out the door. They are black and have tread on the bottoms instead of the smooth sole that typical mx boots have. Alpinestars also make a half boot that looks like a hiking boot. josh Alpinestars LINK

It is ok. You need a rich condition to start because the engine is cold. With cold air comming in to the motor. Pluse if the motor has not ran for a while the gas in the crank case has evparated so you have no fuel in the engine. As for when it is running. When the motor is warm it warms the air up. Especially on a 2 stroke since the air goes in to the cylinder then down in to the crank case. So at the carb you are pulling in cold air and mixing it with a given amount of fuel. On its way to the combustion chamber it warms up as it travels from the carb in to the inake box then down into the crank case, then back up in to the combustion chamber. Still has the same amount of fuel but less air becase it has expaned from the heat. That is why when the motor warms up it richens up. Try pulling the choak out when it is running back and see if it gets better or worse. josh

Yea aftermarket carbs will get rid of the tores. You can buy a kit that will get rid of them on the stock carbs as well. What mods do you have now? What are your future plans? What type of terrain do you ride in. If you just have a piped banshee, with maybe a mild port job look at the Keihin PWK 28's or OKO 30's or a 2 in to 1 with a PWK 35mm carb. If your going for a dune port job the I would go twards the Dual Keihin PWK 33's If your going for a drag port then the Dual PWK 35's would be a good choice.

But the silencer bodies (muffler part) is the same right?

You need to go leaner. Cold motor pulls in cold air wich is more dense. When the motor warms it heats the air up so it is pulling in less air because warm air is less dense. Start with the Main, then the needle clip position, followed by the pilot and air screw. What jetting do you currently have with your PJ's?

I drilled a couple small holes in the low spots on the bottom of my stator cover so it wont fill up.

Some times when you antifreeze is good to -25 it wont actually freez solid. It might get some reall thick and have some Ice crystals form but it wont freeze solid. You could just drain a little out by taking a cylinder bolt out and then add some straigh antifreeze.

My banshee before the rebuild. Alba Graphix kit.

I have a barnett carbon fiber clutch. I would have went with a Fast Racing clutch if I known about it at the time. Or you could get a cheap tusk.

Thanks man. It is a 1997. I got new OEM Plastic with Oem Decals. It was kind of a pricy Graphix kit but I wanted an 06 Look a Like josh

Call toomey and see what they say. Worse case the silencer should be the same. You can buy the stinger tube seperate from toomey.

I had a start of that problem. New flywheel has some scaley white crorosion. I took a wire brush to it to clean it all up. I figured I would shoots a little paint on it to keep it from rusting. The paint didnt stick a got balled up around the pickup coil. My banshee kept running like it was a jetting problem. So I was going to put my original stator back on and take the ricky stator off and I found the problem.

If it is just falling on its face I would say your lean. If it falls on its face and it feels rough then I would say your rich. Kind of choppy. josh

Yea go for the long rod stroker. You will need wiseco 795 series pistons, and a set of stroker domes from Noss Machine or Kevin Herr if he is doing the porting. Make sure you tell him your going to be running a stoker crank so he can port it for the extra stroke. josh

I know some guys with cubs throw a crap ton of timing on them. Plate at 8 and the the dyna digital box on another curve.

i would squirt a little 2 stroke oil in the plugs. Put a little through the carbs to get it down in the crank berrings. roll the motor over with the plugs out. Then just fire it up. Probably smoke a little from the extra oil. josh

I run +8 on my drag ported 4mill running 185psi and citgo 110 I dont always drag race. I trail ride it as well.

I think trail tech rewindes stators.

That is for the the rear wheel hubs, sprocket and hub, disk, and hub. One of my buddies is changing a blaster over to hydro brakes. I will let him know.

Here is why it wont work. Burning fuel in an enclosed container causes pressure right? Same pressure that forces the piston down. On a 2 stroke when the piston is at bottom dead center all the ports are opean correct. Your reeds are going to take the brunt force of that pressure. Probably endup cracking the reed and blowing it back in to the carbs. It doenst take to many back fires to eject your reeds back in to the carbs.

I went through 3 mechanical ones. If your going to go with the auto temp gauge (that is what I have) get the electric one that is made atvs. It works with ac or dc current, and it comes with a billit aluminum inline t for the sensor. The vibration tore up the mechanical gauges.

Those inline temp gauges are nice. I have one on my raptor. The only problem is you need to install it in the hose that goes from the head to the top of the radiator. The bottom hose is where the cool water goes into the motor so it isnt real accurate of a temp reading. If you get an Inline one install it up by the radiator so you can reed it through one of the vent holes in the side of the gas tank cover.

The thing I like about the PD and Noss head is you can unbolt the rear hose fitting from the head. Fighting to get that rear hose on and sliding the head down while keeping the orings in place is a pain. When ever I take my PD head off I just un do the 2 allen head bolts and leave the rear elbow fitting in the hose. That Charriot Head looks like the elbow thread in to the head, instead of bolting on and sealing with an oring.

The thing I like about the PD and Noss head is you can unbolt the rear hose fitting from the head. Fighting to get that rear hose on and sliding the head down while keeping the orings in place is a pain. When ever I take my PD head off I just un do the 2 allen head bolts and leave the rear elbow fitting in the hose. That Charriot Head looks like the elbow thread in to the head, instead of bolting on and sealing with an oring.