jbooker82

I will agree with you on that. Here is where I am coming from. #1The crank has to be replaced. #2You can get a 4mill long rod for pretty cheap from Jeff at FAST. #3 A port job doesnt cost any more for a 4mill over a stock stroke. So if he can or can't afford a port job it is going to be the same for ethire crank setups. #4 Pistons need replaced. 513 and 795 Series pistons are the same price. Stock Stroke Stock Port vs. 4mill Long Rod Stock Port Stock Stroke Ported vs 4mill Long Rod Ported I would take the 4 mill both times. The stroker crank isnt going to cost much more to build now since he needs to replace the crank. The only extra cost is going to be the price difference between the two different cranks and a pair of custom cut stroker domes. Who said he needs to change carbs pipes suspension. There is a differnce between wanting and required to. Maybe he rides in the woods and would want a mid range machine.

#1. Transmission Fluid. The oil that you change in the banshee is only for the transmission. It doesnt lubercate any of the engine parts. Yamaha says to use yamalube 10W30. A oil desigend for 2 stroke transmissions is best. Bel Ray Gear Saver 80w is good stuff. Make sure you get a straight weight. You dont want 80w-90 that is a hypoid gear oil for differentals. #2 The different oils wont cause you any problems just try to stick to the same mixture and oil. I would be more concerned with you putting 91 Octane fuel in your banshee when the Previous owner ran VP110. Ethire the previous owner was wasting his money running that high octane fuel, or it was build to run it. If it was built to run 110 your probably going to be detonating. If it does it long enough you will have a blown up banshee. #3 Check the clutch adjustment. It might be out of adjustment and not releasing all the way. #4 You need to buy a good compression tester. A Craftsman would be a good one to get. I wouldnt go any cheaper on the tester. Do a compression test. Keep records, Looking for any sudden drop in one cylinder. Both cylinders should be pretty close. I usually test my banshee 2 times a year. Once at the begining of riding season, and once half way through. #5 No you dont have to replace your reeds every season. You will know when you need to replace them. When they crack and break usually the cylinder does dead and doesnt run. You can also buy replacement petals instead of buying the whole new reeds with cages. #6 No you dont have to rering it every 10 hrs. Go by what your compression tester says. Looking for big drops or uneven cylinder readings. josh

Is this from experiance? If a crank is shot and needs replaced Why not replace it with a 4 mill stroker?

I have a metal shift drum cover behind mine. I got it from cascade. My stock plastic one was cracked.

Get the Plastic TM Designworks one. It braces its self against the cases, intead of just relying only on the 3 bolts on the bottom. It also goes behind the sprocket as well.

Electrical problems can have you chasing jetting all day with no results. Check the stator out with an Ohm meter.

Dual Edelbrock 750's with custom intake.

I would go 4 mill Long Rod. Why not the crank is about the same price. It drops right in. You will need. 4mill Long Rod Crank 795 Series Pistons (for the longer conecting rod) Cut Stroker domes (they are cut 2 mm so the piston doesnt hit the head (stroker part of the crank)). Just call david at noss machine let him know what you want and the domes will be good to go. You should get it ported at this time to to take full advantage of the stroker crank, but they will still run ok with stock porting. Like anything there is always going to be something holding you back. josh

So if you think it looks lean, what are you going to change jetting. Yea you can probably assume that your bike is lean or rich by looking at the pistons but how are you going to tell where it is lean at. You might have a Rich main, and a lean needle setting. 80% of your riding ocurs on the needle. So it looks like your pistons are lean, so you up the main. Make it more rich on the top end and still lean on the needle. That is why you have to do a plug chop, and do it right. Other wise your getting an AVERAGE reading, not exact answers. josh

Wiseco is the way to go. The hone might be cheap but the resleeve wont be when the piston skirt breaks with the Namura. You want to make some good wiseco's send them to swain tech to have the PC9 coating put on the skirts. It is a dry film lubercant that helps protect the skirts and helps retain oil. josh

C12 is a better fuel then RED. Red is supose to be there economy fuel. But you can get Sunoco, or Citgo, or Turbo Blue for way cheaper then VP's Red.

Got it backwards. Thick needle is Leaner Thin needle is Rich 50 Pilot is to big. PWK's generally run 48-45 with CEL needles. PJ's need a little richer bottom end. 52 pilot with CEK or DEK needles.

Keihins just take time getting use to. They are more fine tunable than the stockers. Make sure you only do 1 adjustment at a time. If you do 2 you might fix 1 problem and create a new one and you wouldnt know the difference. Try 2.5 turns out on the air screw with your current jetting. If it feels a little better then drop down to a 45 pilot and reset the air scews to 1.5 turns out, and start over fine tuning the air screws. I started out on PJ's. Learning to jet PWK's is a hell of a lot easer then the older PJ's

Is that a Direct Drive new Cast Cover? Mine sat so close it would rub. I just use a dremal to clearance it. It would still rub just a hair. They are now a machined pair because I just let it wear down on its own. No over heating problems here. josh

All you need is: rat traps, small sort pices of pipe, 10 or 12 gauge shot gun shells, and trip wires. I am sure you can McGuyver it up to make something. :biggrin:

Or get a disk brake lock with an alarm that goes off if it is moved.

:thumbsup: If that is the case then Get a Pro Design radiator.

What pipes were you running?

:thumbsup: That pic is exactly how they come from Dan at Patriot Racing. He sandblasted them not me. josh

Send your jugs to a place that is KNOWN for there banshee work and show the locals how it is done.

No I dont have any more pics. Yea the intakes are sand blasted. I would imagine it makes everyting look even and uniform. Helps smooth out the marks left from the porting tools. You dont want smooth intakes. Rougher ones promote Air and fuel mixing. Looks can be deceiving. The first set is actually my Patriot Racing 4mill Drag Port. The intake ports do roll down some but they are not as big as the second set. Bigger isnt always better. The second (red) set is an MX port from a no name shop in KS. Victory Motor Sports in Moundridge. That is what the previous owner told me. They were on the bike when I bought it.

Bring it over to my place with a full tank of fuel. I got a bucket of sand. :biggrin:

Exhaust port on the First set.

Here is 2 pics of 2 different cylinders that I have ran. You cant tell wich one is more agressively ported by the pictures.

It is nice for jetting when you just un do 2 hose clamps and pop the filters off instead of wrestling around with that air box. It gets even worse when you go to larger carbs. josh